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Perfectly Rounded Fret ends

Can you post a picture of your fret ends post polish?

Here ya go, these are what they typically look like. Jescar 37080 stainless wire on one of my AMB-2 basses.

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IMG_5615B.jpg


Just a rounded D-shape dome. Very smooth feeling as you slide your hand along the edge of the fingerboard. The important thing is to not round off the bottom corners of the fret end. That will make them feel rough and catch things. Keep them flared out at the bottom.
 
Wow, those look great Bruce! I'm definitely going to check out your flap wheel technique. When you say to not round off the bottom corners, do you mean with a file? I would think if you tried to round those corners with with the flap wheel, you would damage the fretboard edge contour.

Yeah, if you use a crowning file (concave on the underside) to round off the ends of the frets, you'll end up rounding off the bottom corners of the frets if you aren't careful. That makes the ends more spherical, which may look pretty, but is rougher feeling.

The Combi-Flap Wheel does somewhat round off the fingerboard edge, but it blends it right into a smooth contour with the fret end. That's the point of doing it. My customers always comment that my necks feel like they've already been played for 10 years. That's exactly what I want.
 
Yeah, if you use a crowning file (concave on the underside) to round off the ends of the frets, you'll end up rounding off the bottom corners of the frets if you aren't careful. That makes the ends more spherical, which may look pretty, but is rougher feeling.

The Combi-Flap Wheel does somewhat round off the fingerboard edge, but it blends it right into a smooth contour with the fret end. That's the point of doing it. My customers always comment that my necks feel like they've already been played for 10 years. That's exactly what I want.

This small detail actually has been something I've been looking to fix in my fret work for years, but could never understand how to address or explain for that matter. Thank you Bruce!
 
I've only fretted three necks (I think) and this has been a challenge for me. I can't wait for my flap wheel to get here so I can ruin some fretboards, uh I mean round off some fret ends.

I’ve done a lot of fret jobs, but not installed or made a neck till recently, so I completely hear you :). I’ve got a few squire necks to mess with in practicing with my flap wheel.
 
I'm sure one of us could come up with some kind of jig guide thing, to do this operation while ensuring that the Combi-Flap Wheel could not hit the fingerboard surface. If we had the time.

3M makes these Combi-Flap wheels in many sizes and shapes for industrial use, including some that are wider, like drums. But they can get kind of expensive. I'm picturing the ideal setup would be one maybe 3" diameter x 6" wide, set up with a vertical axis. You'd feed the edge of the neck along it by hand, side to side. Hmmm.....
 
I'm sure one of us could come up with some kind of jig guide thing, to do this operation while ensuring that the Combi-Flap Wheel could not hit the fingerboard surface. If we had the time.

3M makes these Combi-Flap wheels in many sizes and shapes for industrial use, including some that are wider, like drums. But they can get kind of expensive. I'm picturing the ideal setup would be one maybe 3" diameter x 6" wide, set up with a vertical axis. You'd feed the edge of the neck along it by hand, side to side. Hmmm.....

I thought about a jig where the drill would be fixed on an angle on a flat surface and the neck would roll forward or back on a rolling platform (and the drill would flip up to change the angle down).. Many other things to consider....
 
That could work. There are a lot of possible ways to make a Combi-Flap Wheel "safe".

I've also thought about making up a custom arbor with "safety wheels". Picture a 3" dia x 2" wide Combi-Flap Wheel. Right on either end of it are rubber wheels, about 4" dia x 1/2" wide, which spin on their own bearings on the arbor shaft. Like larger diameter versions of the bearings on pattern-following router bits.

This whole assembly of the arbor with the Combi-Flap Wheel in the middle and the safety wheels on either side would be chucked in a drill motor or a drill press. You'd run it down the edge of the fingerboard and, if you slipped, the safety wheels would just ride up on the fingerboard and prevent the Comb-Flap Wheel itself from contacting it. Eliminating those pesky loud profanities.

The more I think about it, the more I like that. I may just make one up. I even have a semi-abandoned machine sitting around here which has a vertical spindle that turns at 1750 rpm. Maybe I should fit that up with the Combi-Flap Wheel and safety wheels, as a permanent Fret End Rounding Machine. Another machine for my list.....
 
That could work. There are a lot of possible ways to make a Combi-Flap Wheel "safe".

I've also thought about making up a custom arbor with "safety wheels". Picture a 3" dia x 2" wide Combi-Flap Wheel. Right on either end of it are rubber wheels, about 4" dia x 1/2" wide, which spin on their own bearings on the arbor shaft. Like larger diameter versions of the bearings on pattern-following router bits.

This whole assembly of the arbor with the Combi-Flap Wheel in the middle and the safety wheels on either side would be chucked in a drill motor or a drill press. You'd run it down the edge of the fingerboard and, if you slipped, the safety wheels would just ride up on the fingerboard and prevent the Comb-Flap Wheel itself from contacting it. Eliminating those pesky loud profanities.

The more I think about it, the more I like that. I may just make one up. I even have a semi-abandoned machine sitting around here which has a vertical spindle that turns at 1750 rpm. Maybe I should fit that up with the Combi-Flap Wheel and safety wheels, as a permanent Fret End Rounding Machine. Another machine for my list.....

That sounds like good idea. Also sounds like you have the inventory to give it a try. Can't wait to hear how it comes out!
I ordered the combi-flap - looking forward to trying it!

Side note on the Stew-Mac fret polishing wheels, think it'll be best to get the complete set (being the first time trying this polishing technique as well? Invalid Link Removed

Wasn't sure if regular dremel mandrels would work instead of theirs :)
 
That sounds like good idea. Also sounds like you have the inventory to give it a try. Can't wait to hear how it comes out!
I ordered the combi-flap - looking forward to trying it!

Side note on the Stew-Mac fret polishing wheels, think it'll be best to get the complete set (being the first time trying this polishing technique as well? Invalid Link Removed

Wasn't sure if regular dremel mandrels would work instead of theirs :)

Hmmm. I notice that Stew-Mac has changed the color/grit of the wheels since I last bought them. The ones I have are grey (medium) and pink (fine). I usually use the grey wheels only on stainless wire, and both on NS wire. The pink wheels take the metal up to a high shine, almost chrome. For the stainless wire, I prefer to a duller shine.

Now they only have pink (fine) and green (extra-fine). I'm not sure how those relate to the grits of the ones I have. You probably only need the pink wheels.

Yeah, the Dremel arbor should be fine. I believe that's what I'm using with mine.

They last a long time. I bought my bag of 5 maybe 10 years ago, and I think I'm only on the third one.
 
Hmmm. I notice that Stew-Mac has changed the color/grit of the wheels since I last bought them. The ones I have are grey (medium) and pink (fine). I usually use the grey wheels only on stainless wire, and both on NS wire. The pink wheels take the metal up to a high shine, almost chrome. For the stainless wire, I prefer to a duller shine.

Now they only have pink (fine) and green (extra-fine). I'm not sure how those relate to the grits of the ones I have. You probably only need the pink wheels.

Yeah, the Dremel arbor should be fine. I believe that's what I'm using with mine.

They last a long time. I bought my bag of 5 maybe 10 years ago, and I think I'm only on the third one.

Awesome, thanks! I realized that I need a dremel flexible shaft attachment and these little things add up with shipping.
 
This is the dream fret end technique I've been wishing for since I started doing any build work. Fret ends can be quite particular and annoying to make perfect with the files and whatnot.
I need to get one of these flap wheels ASAP! And I'd love to see the jig idea come to fruition... although I really need to see this in action, if only just a picture of how you do this.
Thanks @Bruce Johnson for all of your advice on stuff like this. And if you do find a picture or short video, I'd love to see what the technique looks like.
(I'm having trouble processing it in my head, but the coffee hasn't quite started kicking in yet, so...)
 
fwiw, hemi-frets done in the acoustic guitar world are done before install. once in (carefully) there should only be a minor dust-off to finalize. it's all about the pre-shaping before pressing them in. frankly, it's a pita to dress them completely with the fretboard in the way.

hemi-frets are an acquired taste. they feel kinda nubby on the hand and aren't for everybody.
 

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