I need to replace the acid sweat destroyed screws for the pickguard on my Gibson Victory. Truss rod cover screws as well. Where do you luthiers get yours?
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Most small stainless hardware is made from 18-8 which for some reason looks like a brushed finish after it’s run through a screw machine. You can buff it but it’s a tedious PITA. An alternative would be to get some screws made from 316. It’s considerably harder than 18-8, which won’t really matter for this application, but what does matter is 316 comes off a screw machine already polished. Not sure why, other than it’s cut at a different speed. Either way, the few cents more for 316 will save you time and mess as it goes straight from package to install with no additional work between.Take one each of the old ones to ACE or TruValue hardware and purchase stainless steel replacements. If you want the heads can be polished up before you install them.
Most small stainless hardware is made from 18-8 which for some reason looks like a brushed finish after it’s run through a screw machine. You can buff it but it’s a tedious PITA.
I was thinking about those bass players who may not have a pin vise or cotton buffing wheel.I buff up 18-8/304 stainless screw heads all the time; very simple and fast. I clamp the body of the screw in a Pin Vise or an old drill chuck and hold the head against a buffing wheel for a few seconds. Usually a sewn cotton wheel charged with Tripoli compound.
I was thinking about those bass players who may not have a pin vise or cotton buffing wheel.
Having seen the aftermath of a pickup route done with a butter knife and a boot for a hammer, I had an image in my mind of someone trying to hold a tiny screw between their fingers against a Harbor Freight 3 inch rag wheel dressed with chrome polish, chucked up in a VSR hand drill held between their knees, with a rubber band or bread tie around the trigger.![]()

Which is why I mentioned an option to buffing for those who are not equipped or inclined to buff out a bunch of small screws, but still want a polished look.When I suggested it I was thinking of buffing by hand. I hadn’t considered the potential carnage of machine buffing.![]()
Is there a problem with usual chrome plated from Kaish or a bunch of other music hardware distributors?
Yes, they are about twice as expensive than sheet metal screws, but it is still only $5 for 50-pk that will last years if you replace them once a year which you probably do not need to do.
To be honest, last time I saw chrome playing flaking of was on a Soviet bicycle made in late 70s. Perhaps I have been lucky with chromed pieces.The plating sometimes flakes off then the screw doesn't have that nice polished look, buy yes, you can just replace the screw.
I've had it happen with screws, the blade of the screwdriver can chip it off if when the plating isn't done well. Maybe I've been poorly ploated screws, I used to buy them according to price.To be honest, last time I saw chrome playing flaking of was on a Soviet bicycle made in late 70s. Perhaps I have been lucky with chromed pieces.
Another easy way to hold them is just to screw them into a scrap of pine or similar and then you can do a bunch at once.I buff up 18-8/304 stainless screw heads all the time; very simple and fast. I clamp the body of the screw in a Pin Vise or an old drill chuck and hold the head against a buffing wheel for a few seconds. Usually a sewn cotton wheel charged with Tripoli compound.