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This along with mass loaded vinyl are actually pretty poor isolators in terms of a performance to cost ratio. Nothing beats drywall in that regard.Bitumen membrane...?
I look forward to meeting more people when we have less pandemic. It seems like a GREAT neighborhood. I want to keep it this way.It's great that you had a reasonable neighbor who didn't immediately default to calling the cops. I always tell people that the best method for mitigating sound isolation is to do it socially. Go have a conversation with any neighbors who could be affected by the sound involved (easier said than done during a global pandemic). Bake them some cookies if you want to REALLY sell it. Give them your phone number and ask them to call you before calling the cops if the noise gets out of hand. Work out an arrangement for times that are acceptable to play at full volume and promise not to exceed those times without discussing it with them first. It's a hassle, but it's free, will introduce you to your neighbors and might even make you some new friends. We all want to play at whatever volume we want, whenever we want, but it's frequently just not possible without huge expenses and efforts.
Maybe creep happened, but also the escaped bass can resonate in the structures around in a much more obtrusive fashion than what you hear right outside the garage.I had my wife walk around outside when I first got set up in this garage to let me know where to stop with volume and lows, but I'm guessing between switching amps and tweaking EQ that overall obnoxiousness must have crept up. I will confess to wishful thinking about the volume and low end not getting obnoxious, but if not for wishful thinking, I would never have picked up the bass.
I'm glad a neighbor spoke up sooner rather than later, because it's horrifying to think about how much of a disturbance I likely have already caused in my ignorance.
Yep!It's great that you had a reasonable neighbor who didn't immediately default to calling the cops. I always tell people that the best method for mitigating sound isolation is to do it socially. Go have a conversation with any neighbors who could be affected by the sound involved (easier said than done during a global pandemic). Bake them some cookies if you want to REALLY sell it. Give them your phone number and ask them to call you before calling the cops if the noise gets out of hand. Work out an arrangement for times that are acceptable to play at full volume and promise not to exceed those times without discussing it with them first. It's a hassle, but it's free, will introduce you to your neighbors and might even make you some new friends. We all want to play at whatever volume we want, whenever we want, but it's frequently just not possible without huge expenses and efforts.
I didn't read the whole thread so please excuse me if I'm suggesting what has already been suggested.
You stated that you don't want to play over headphones and I can understand that, but you didn't give us a reason. If you don't like to wear headphone that's perfectly OK but if you're concerned by the lack of the physical feeling that a real amp would give you you could try out a bass platform like the one Eich Amplification (and other manufacturers probably as well) makes.
I didn't read the whole thread so please excuse me if I'm suggesting what has already been suggested.
You stated that you don't want to play over headphones and I can understand that, but you didn't give us a reason. If you don't like to wear headphone that's perfectly OK but if you're concerned by the lack of the physical feeling that a real amp would give you you could try out a bass platform like the one Eich Amplification (and other manufacturers probably as well) makes.

In a perfect senerio, Low frequencies need to be redirected and cancel them selves out
One can only wonder how to achieve this senerio with minimal funds .
I was referring to the types of materials needed to attain sufficient low frequency attenuation.I understand about your Marshall Stacks assumption, I guess. But, still, you are attaching the info about the proper fire proof building materials onto what I said. Makes it seem to other people, that I suggested using non-fire rated, sub standard materials. Which I didn't. I actually stated I hired a sound contractor to build it correctly. Maybe you got me confused with someone else. Thanks.
Ok, let's flip the question around. We know it won't be perfect, but what is the most sound absorption you can make for $500? OP will need to be willing to turn down, unwillingness is a non-starter. Tape on the cymbals - free, a couple old moving blankets on the garage door - cheap, other things that won't make it perfect, but may get the SPL down to the point where the neighbors won't mind if it happens before 8:00pm. Basically, showing some effort will go a long way. Well, assuming the band doesn't suck. Heh.
I had my wife walk around outside when I first got set up in this garage to let me know where to stop with volume and lows, but I'm guessing between switching amps and tweaking EQ that overall obnoxiousness must have crept up.
You can wonder all you want, but that's not going to be any more effective in practice that doing nothing (except what we mentioned earlier)
I was referring to the types of materials needed to attain sufficient low frequency attenuation.
My flame spread statements/cautions were separate and applies to any building material used for acoustic treatment (and other applications too, but I was just addressing this because of specific incidents that affected our industry... the Ghost Ship warehouse fire is another with tragic consequences).
A wave, even one that is inaudible or almost so, can travel through the air, enter a structure, and because of the way resonance works can get loud again. This depends on the dimensions and damping inside the other structure!
May I suggest since you're going class D and see the need for an HPF:SO! … ten pages in, I think I have some answers, haha. Thank you to those who read carefully and replied constructively (especially @agedhorse; I don't know where you find time for my garage issues, but I hope it's useful or at least fun for you).
We rent, we have no basement, and we have no room for a bass barn or bunker, so major construction wouldn't work even if I had the budget.
While the idea of adding subs to control the bleeding through cancellation intrigues me, that's also beyond my budget, space, and know-how.
It doesn't sound like bass traps, insulation, blankets, or other "Band-Aids" will make enough of a difference to justify their effort or expense, though I might insulate the garage door for the usual reasons.
I might spring for a high-pass filter (now that I'm about to go Class D, might as well hop on that train, too).
I will try the new combo (whoever suggested the Traynor: I went with the SB-112, haha!) on the stand at much lower volume and see how that goes. Headphones remain an option; I just really don't like them.
I would like to reach out to the neighbors personally, but that will have to wait until the pandemic gets under control. By then, maybe the brief period of disturbance will have been forgotten, haha/groan.
I think the D-800+ is exactly what I need, but I would have to move a lot of gear before I could make it a reality.May I suggest since you're going class D and see the need for an HPF:
View attachment 4032802
Just a thought...
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I do apologize , right or wrong but I kinda view roofing felt as a poor man's MLVYou can wonder all you want, but that's not going to be any more effective in practice that doing nothing (except what we mentioned earlier)
I was referring to the types of materials needed to attain sufficient low frequency attenuation.
My flame spread statements/cautions were separate and applies to any building material used for acoustic treatment (and other applications too, but I was just addressing this because of specific incidents that affected our industry... the Ghost Ship warehouse fire is another with tragic consequences).