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POOR BRIDGE-NECK ALIGNMENT ?

Yeah, but look at how far to the left I have to move the G saddle insert to get there. It’s doable, but it’ll bug me.

But…looking at it again, maybe I should get all the strings on and adjust the spacing properly on them before I decide to go and redrill lol.

Or yank the neck towards the bass side. That solves 99% of the instances regarding the alignment. A little change in the way the neck is seated goes a very long way.
 
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Funny, I was just about to post about the same issue on a Squier body/Allparts neck partscaster I’m setting up that looks very similar to yours. I actually have the Hipshot that another poster was talking about. I can get the string spacing to work if I max the G saddle to the left and I’m tempted to leave it like that…but my ocd won’t let me, so I’m probably gonna be plugging and redrilling in the next day or two.
View attachment 4412335
Thanks for the pic. Going to try and relocate the original bridge as mine is clearly quite a way off. Hipshot looks nice.
 
String alignment over the pickup isn't really as critical as alignment over the neck - if the distance between the string and the edge of the neck is correct, moving the bridge in order to correct the pickup alignment will throw that off. That's when the "tug the neck" trick might actually make sense, to help you get everything correct.
Yeah the pickup thing never worried me too much. When I bought it I removed the J pu and replaced the P and put new strings on. I do remember noticing the strings passing over the pickups incorrectly, but don't recall them stitting out of position on the fingerboard. I got it for cheap from a friend whose son never played it. I never noticed how bad the gap was between the E string and the fretboard edge until recently. I think I have gradually worsened the gap in the last couple of years? Myself and my bandmate have played it a hell of a lot. You can see from my original 2nd pic how out of place they became. It's an Affinity series, and could have been originally sold as B stock? Pulling the neck did help with the string position over the fingerboard, but it's still a few mm from where it should be.
 
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Thanks for the pic. Going to try and relocate the original bridge as mine is clearly quite a way off. Hipshot looks nice.
The Hipshot is cool, and having total control of the spacing is going to be great. I really didn't want to shift the neck because it already had a pretty big gap in the neck pocket (pet peeve), but I went ahead and now it's all squared. Priorities I guess :D here's a shot of the now straight completely un-setup bass with the inserts in the centre (more or less) of each saddle.

IMG_2925.jpg
 
Ever tried loosening the neck screws and giving the neck a tug in the proper direction?

If it’s indeed bad within the limits of neck adjustment, re-drill and fill.

VERY Belayed response.. But I’m searching the forums for guidance and wisdom on the multitude of problems that a poorly cut/fit & angled (BOTH Horizontally) or worse Vertical depth/lacktherof creating a non-level plane (diving or climbing in essence) extending away parallel to the body.. HEADACHE! :rage::rage:
 
VERY Belayed response.. But I’m searching the forums for guidance and wisdom on the multitude of problems that a poorly cut/fit & angled (BOTH Horizontally) or worse Vertical depth/lacktherof creating a non-level plane (diving or climbing in essence) extending away parallel to the body.. HEADACHE! :rage::rage:

Post some pics and a description of each with a focus on the issue(s). You can just use this thread since we're on a roll.

Riis
 
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VERY Belayed response.. But I’m searching the forums for guidance and wisdom on the multitude of problems that a poorly cut/fit & angled (BOTH Horizontally) or worse Vertical depth/lacktherof creating a non-level plane (diving or climbing in essence) extending away parallel to the body.. HEADACHE! :rage::rage:
When the strings are not parallel to the neck edges, it is not always the neck pocket problem. It can be that the bridge is I stalked with offset. Remount the bridge can be the more reliable fix than fiddling with the neck-tug. You can mount a bridge with different hole pattern or repair the existing holes and then drill the new ones as needed. Vertical angle, when the neck ramps up from the front of the bass can be adjusted with in pocket shim. If the neck ramps down from the face, you usually can adjust that with saddles or use a shim.
 
I’ve had plenty MIM J basses and have assembled plenty more from MIM bodies and necks bought separately, and none of those basses had enough slop in the neck pocket to tweak them for better string alignment with the fretboard, but none of them needed that particular tweak so it was all good.