Both boards are 2008, main board is rev B4, small board c.2, so same as the OP's OP on page 1. So I guess it's a 1nF and I need to get out my soldering iron 
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Pork Loin mod
- Thread starter johnk_10
- Start date
So yours is a 1nf. Not sure what that says about when Way Huge did or did not change that value but yours has the darker value.
Thanks for clarification! I started typing the following hours ago, with quite a few interruptions. Note the schematic posted in the thread linked below indicates a 1 uF cap for C24. I have no idea about the origin or accuracy of the schematic. The 102 I observed indicates 10 followed by two 0's, right? So that's 1000 and for caps it's the inverse, right? 1/1000 or .0001? That's how I recall from too long ago. Has anyone done the mod and observed or measured what the value of the removed C24 was? Doesn't make much difference if it works!
The rambling:
I found this on my phone at work, probably when they tortured me to the point I had to go for a walk and cool off. The tabs with the schematic were still open, but it took some time to find the forum thread discussing the mods. It may be of interest to us for further modification. I take it from the OP's OP his goal was reducing bass, but it seems there are many caps that could be swapped if so desired.
IDK the OP and I don't mean to say anything bad about him, but at that point, about a year ago, he was finding his way around working on boards, and he made a statement that made no sense to my small brain and it's understanding of filtering circuits. He essentially claimed turning down the "filter" which I believe is the "Tone" on the box, it was boosting bass. I think that is a passive filter and incapable of boosting anything; it would only cut. Perhaps he was adjusting the volume to be the same and it in effect boosted bass, or the pot labeled "filter" on the schematic is something else. He also made that statement about the time he was having some cabelology issues, so may have been confused or frustrated. As I said, no disrespect to anyone intended. I actually admire a fella willing to dive into something new. I only point this out to impress the fact that the guy was asking for advice (smart) and working more off trial and error. What is really nice about this thread is there is a schematic
Mod for Way Huge Pork Loin pedal (cuts bass) He refers to this thread in his OP, and includes our OP's photo from our OP's OP. OK? From what I can see, My board is the same Rev as the first one modded, same revisions, but his actual printed circuit might be newer although not documented (by rev) changes. I think mine is older, because if you look at the upper right on John K's board, there is a number larger than the other text and made to look like LED segments. I believe they did that LED seg thing to indicate it's a changing number and to me looks like a date code. John K's is 0908, leading me to believe the board, the blank PCB was made in the 8th week of 2009. Mine says
0831, 31st week of 2008. They probably don't rotate inventory on unstuffed boards. No reason to. So IDK really how old my pedal is.
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That's my understanding of the 102 marking and the result is in pf, so the conversion becomes 1nf.
The schematic does not look official to me. I think someone traced it out. I mostly left electronics about 20 years ago I guess. Slow transition, but by 2000 I was mostly IT, full time IT by 2003. So I have forgotten more than I ever knew, placing me in the red! Here is the schematic directly posted in case anyone wants to make corrections:
I don't want to
I don't want to
Good eye. I went out to the garage in search of caps of the right size, in bug tubs of surplus electronics. It bugged me the whole time and I had to look it up.
mili .001 or 10ee-03
micro .000001 or 10ee-06
nano .000000001 or 10ee-09
pico .0000000000001 or 10ee-12
I also forgot the number on the cap is usually uF unless otherwise stated. It makes sense to my pea brain now, 102 = 1/1000 = .001uF = 1nF
Too tired to do anything now. Maybe later this week. I was thinking about wiring a switch with a couple sizes of caps to hear the difference. I was thinking around 220 puff to the 470 puff Johnk used.
mili .001 or 10ee-03
micro .000001 or 10ee-06
nano .000000001 or 10ee-09
pico .0000000000001 or 10ee-12
I also forgot the number on the cap is usually uF unless otherwise stated. It makes sense to my pea brain now, 102 = 1/1000 = .001uF = 1nF
Too tired to do anything now. Maybe later this week. I was thinking about wiring a switch with a couple sizes of caps to hear the difference. I was thinking around 220 puff to the 470 puff Johnk used.
I'm really up for testing this mod out, but know nothing about electronics. I am not confident enough to replace the cap myself so will get a trusted guitar tech or pedal builder to do it for me. Can someone please link me to the right replacement part? I know it sounds stupid but i'd just like the peace of mind that i've got the right stuff. If someone could please let me know what I need, and what I need to tell the person preforming the mod for me. Would it just be a case of showing the diagram that JohnK originally posted? Sorry I must sound like a total moron right now. Any advice would be huge help.
Here is the exact email that JohnK sent me when I asked him. I totally understand where you’re coming from man. Either one of these will work great. You dont sound like a moron at all! We all start somewhere. As much as I've come across and learned so far, I'm still not great with this stuff. I should know more. But hey, we all get where we want to eventually.
any 470pf cap will do.
like this: FKC-2 470/100/5 WIMA CAP 470PF 100V 5% 2.5 X 6.5 X 7.2 RADIAL Polycarbonate
(these were the ones I ordered and used)
or this:
8 pcs Ceramic Capacitors. 470pF, 470 pF, 50V, C0G, P/N 1C10C0G471J050B 6B5d
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Tech might have one. I'd print the pic on pg 1 of this thread and bring it along.
Good call to let an experianced tech do the work. Soldering in a new cap is easy. Desoldering the old and getting it out is not rocket surgery, but takes some experiance to do it well. By well, I mean safe for the board.
Good call to let an experianced tech do the work. Soldering in a new cap is easy. Desoldering the old and getting it out is not rocket surgery, but takes some experiance to do it well. By well, I mean safe for the board.
Totally. Taking it out took me longer than populating the new one. I hate removing soldered parts. I can solder all day, but removal, nah. I suck at it.
If a 28 year marriage has tought me one thing... it's practice on scrap!
You are very welcome man. Hope it works out for you!! Because the Pork Loin straight RULES with the mod.
Yeah, I was stubborn and desoldered mine without removing the board from the enclosure. I wouldn't do it that way if I had it to do over but I did manage to make it work. Agree with the idea to take it to a tech if you don't have any solder rework skills in your past. I used to do stuff like that for a living and I still was cussing myself.
Yeah, I did mine with the board still in. It wasn't horrible. But it made it more difficult than it had to be.
