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View attachment 1058823 I just received a new Pork Loin (purchased Feb 2017) from Sweetwater and it has the old cap. Looks like I will be performing the mod too. Well not me... that might render a permanent modification in a bad way. I wonder if talk of the updated factory cap is accurate? I enjoy the current tone but have to admit the modded tone sounds better.
At first I was excited reading the thread because I just purchased mine so I figured it was the updated model but I pulled off the cover and the cap read 102J. Check out this picture from the OP. Check the red cap and read the numbers. The pedal is still fantastic as it is. However they sound even better with the cap mod. There are several sound clips on this thread for comparison.How can you tell it's got the old cap from that pic? Or is that not how you're deciphering?
View attachment 1058983
At first I was excited reading the thread because I just purchased mine so I figured it was the updated model but I pulled off the cover and the cap read 102J. Check out this picture from the OP. Check the red cap and read the numbers. The pedal is still fantastic as it is. However they sound even better with the cap mod. There are several sound clips on this thread for comparison.
I have not been able to mod mine yet, but dreaming of a toggle switch on the side in a poorly drilled hole with masking tape labels
Wife has not yet figured out how to tamper proof all my gear yet!
Any suggestions on cap values? I was thinking of a couple different values for on-the-fly changes...
I'm kind of a hack. Interested in any theories or opinions for sure. It could be fun to add a toggle switch with a couple of caps to select for a bit of tone option... OK, I _AM_ a hack.
Anyone notice the missing pot labeled "voice?" Interesting! Makes me wonder why WH chose to omit this part of the circuit on production PL's... Just too many knobs for most people? Since I noticed it, it stands out like a sore thumb. I feel like I just discovered a large red button in a hallway with a sign over it with large red letters stating, "DO NOT PUSH!!!"
I want to push the button.
This should work, correct?
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I have a Pork Loin incoming from reverb.com tomorrow, so I'm hoping to get the iron warmed up tomorrow night!
I think you are good with that. Here is the PM JohnK responded to me with when I asked:
any 470pf cap will do.
like this: FKC-2 470/100/5 WIMA CAP 470PF 100V 5% 2.5 X 6.5 X 7.2 RADIAL Polycarbonate
or this:
8 pcs Ceramic Capacitors. 470pF, 470 pF, 50V, C0G, P/N 1C10C0G471J050B 6B5d
One more thing: The Pork Loin is awesome! I love it for bass and guitar on my board and so far don't even miss the Barbershop that it replaced. And although I really suck at soldering (desoldering is where most of the drama happens, though) I'm very happy that I managed to not destroy the pedal.
Hey Frank, I appreciate the warnings! I just haven't had the time to work on anything but my day jobFor the multiple, switchable caps mod, you'd need to make a small, separate PCB (or a less-elegant perf board) with your other cap options, and to cut traces on the PL's PCB and solder directly wires from the traces to the leads of your switch, and also from your new board to the leads of the switch (and find a way to lodge everything in the pedal's housing). If you're not experienced with electronics design/repair, I'd leave this one aside. It's not rocket surgery, but there is potential to mess things up.
custom 250?It does sound so much better with the cap mod. I just got a custom 250 built and the PL may need to worry a little haha. But I tell ya, I've never kept an OD on my board as long as the modded PL has been onboard. It's pretty much perfect for me. The way it drives and sounds, the way it reacts is just fabulous!
This should work, correct?
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I have a Pork Loin incoming from reverb.com tomorrow, so I'm hoping to get the iron warmed up tomorrow night!
C
custom 250?
For the multiple, switchable caps mod, you'd need to make a small, separate PCB (or a less-elegant perf board) with your other cap options, and to cut traces on the PL's PCB and solder directly wires from the traces to the leads of your switch, and also from your new board to the leads of the switch (and find a way to lodge everything in the pedal's housing). If you're not experienced with electronics design/repair, I'd leave this one aside. It's not rocket surgery, but there is potential to mess things up.
IMO, the easiest way, without cutting any traces would be to do it like this:
View attachment 1067495