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Post your VERY SPECIFIC pedalboard, if you got it ...

Famous last words, but I really think this going to stay pretty stable.

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My Pedal Gang (Reggae & Soul and general noise making)

SEQUENCE: Bass → Cali76 Bass Compressor → Broughton High Pass Filter → TC Electronics Nether Octaver → MXR MB301 Bass Synth → MXR M108s 10-Band EQ → One Control Crimson Red Bass Preamp → MXR M292 Carbon Copy Deluxe → Effects Return

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PHILOSOPHY: Dynamics → Governance → Texture → Frequency → Character → Space → Amplification
 
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The what is about a year old, the how is more recent with the host midi out gen4 MB3. I use IRs for e-cello, so makes sense to me that 80ir is first after microbass in bypass. Then I either: run parallel guitar and bass amps + select fx in stereo, or cello ir going to both 60 and 70 for parallel stereo summed back to stereo return to microbass.
 
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My main board is extremely specific. It is a biampesque setup. Any changes are minimal and only change due to need. I play in a duo. I play a 12string bass, bass vi, 2course slide bass and electric cello… the signal chain is built around 2 separate parallel loops one treble/“guitar” with all lows eqd out and one bass with all treble eqd out. This gives me a pretty good two people playing type of sound. But no, I don’t make setups to look neat and pretty to post on instagram to fit a look or vibe, I don’t have favorite pedal companies the I need their new thang on this board… I have other for fun boards..
 

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Have You tried it?

One can use the LPF on the RFE to achieve crossed-over setup: clean lows below 330hz and driven mids and highs (with Tone control set at noon or higher).
I sold the RFE in favour of the empress para eq for bass, but I did something similar, I had the RFE in the clean loop that I set the LPF a bit more transparently to 1-3hz (right where you hear an audible difference).I still keep the tone control around noon with the toggle set to Lo, but now I can do the same with the para eq now with a bit more options.

It really did make a difference having it be in the clean loop, I barely touch the drive control of the the billy sheehan and with just the level control it boosts the high frequencies to almost add harmonics* (at least I think they are, it's really just a separate driven signal) back to dark sounding amps. For reference I use a traynor bassmaster that can be pretty transparent but you really have to boost the gain and high mids to get some brightness to cut through at lower volumes.
 
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It really did make a difference having it be in the clean loop, I barely touch the drive control of the the billy sheehan and with just the level control it boosts the high frequencies to almost add harmonics* (at least I think they are, it's really just a separate driven signal) back to dark sounding amps.
Yeah, I set the drive control ccw as well. It can brighten old dead strings…
 
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I use this into the return of my combo.
Setup for “tone” only no true effects.
But right now it’s truly the “bees knees” I always take it with me regardless of amp I’m using.
 

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I would reach out to the manufacturer. It's been a few years, but when an electrical storm fried the board in my Baby Sumo (my fault for not unplugging it), he sent out a replacement and great instructions on how to install it. He was very responsive and helpful.
 
Have you tried putting RFE in the clean loop of the EBS pedal? That's where I have mine...

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Hey man - I know we have discussed the Billy Sheehan Drive in other threads but just wondering - do you get any audible drive with the Drive knob set to its lowest point? Or do you have it set that way for a clean tone, then some drive once you hit the Boost?
 
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