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Potential Rickenbacker Purchase
- Thread starter Batced
- Start date
Rather the opposite I suspect - lots people that are not solvent, or have struggled previously and look into the past, see the road travelled and offer their advice on the small chance that a TBer avoids a pitfall because of the council of others.
True, I've been reading the comments and perhaps I was hasty trying to and blow up my credit with a potentially irresponsible decision.
I'll repair the copy, it'll probably be half the cost of what it would be of a used Ric. The copy has served me well these 20th years (gosh knows what its story was back in the 70s to the mid-00s when I got it) and I've already got two other respectable and reliable enough basses to use so that if I put the Ric for a bit while it's getting fixed up I won't be without.
Thanks all for putting that into perspective and no, the poster who said they were a Debbie downer, no if you see this you were being real and rational and I appreciate it!
I think this is the first time I've seen TalkBass convince someone NOT to buy a new bass. But you're probably making the right call.
Why do you think fixing your Matsumoto (or is it Matsumoku? I think that's the company name...) would cost that much? A used Ric in good condition isn't much cheaper than a new one, so either way you'd be looking at close to $2000. Even having the electronics completely replaced shouldn't cost anywhere near $1000.
Me too as I have two regular 4003s myself! But an S model would be a nice a third option.
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One thing to point out with newer Rickenbackers is yes they are thinner front to back than they have been but the neck is still P bass like width, not similar to the Jazz width of the older ones. I personally love the new neck it's also D shaped so it's got "shoulders"
I don't think they have ever been better than the ones they're producing now.
But going along with what everybody else is saying, I'd overhaul the wiring harness and keep what you got, that stuff is super, super easy to fix!
I don't think they have ever been better than the ones they're producing now.
But going along with what everybody else is saying, I'd overhaul the wiring harness and keep what you got, that stuff is super, super easy to fix!
Wise decision OP! This is why I put that caveat in my original post. It's also why I haven't bought another few basses myself since becoming debt free 3 years ago. Sometimes less really is more.
It's Matsumoko, it's autocorrecting and I just assume if I source out the necessary replacement parts and then have someone do the work it might cost a decent chunk of change (wiring harness plus new pickups plus labor). I'm just speculating, I won't know for sure til I cross that bridge .
Replaced all three in the last 2 years. Now replacing the stove in my rental unit. The stove in my house ain't looking great, either...
BBB
I tried a 2019-ish 4003s and found the neck ridiculously chunky and wide, like it could be a neck for a 5 or 6 - string.
My 1980 4001 has a nice fast neck, probably about as slim and narrow as they come (though I haven't tried too many).
I'm up in the air whether or not it's a 'true' Ric with only one truss rod. I'd say a nice working bass is a nice working bass, and if it's an improvement, then great; but on the other hand, it's been part of their signature build for decades, warts and all.
I own several different vintage and newer basses - Fenders, Gibsons, Guild, and find the Ric probably the most solid and enjoyable to play, overall.
My 1980 4001 has a nice fast neck, probably about as slim and narrow as they come (though I haven't tried too many).
I'm up in the air whether or not it's a 'true' Ric with only one truss rod. I'd say a nice working bass is a nice working bass, and if it's an improvement, then great; but on the other hand, it's been part of their signature build for decades, warts and all.
I own several different vintage and newer basses - Fenders, Gibsons, Guild, and find the Ric probably the most solid and enjoyable to play, overall.
Exactly so. "Deoxit" contact cleaner is readily available, and is excellent for getting rid of problems like that. But, fair warning; a little goes a loong way. And, I also agree with the post about the MIJ Rick copies being desireable - and increasingly pricey. I looked at a lefty on on Reverb the other day, and was... kind of shocked at the asking price. Part of it's likely because lefty's were very scarce, but still... Take good care of yours, but... sure; buy a Rick if you want. The RickResource Forum used to have data on thin/thick neck years; you might ask them. Somebody on the Rick site here might have the dates, too...
I'd argue that mortgage is not the same thing as consumer debt. A house is more of a necessity than a 2025 Rickenbacker 4003, and will less likely lead to habitual debt.
Unlikely to need new pickups. Checkout 'Stew Mac' for an idea on cost of replacing all the pots with a pre-wired 'drop in' replacement. Getting someone to solder 8 cables is a 'while you wait' job that any music store with an onsite guitar tech will do - maybe $50-100 plus electrics, $100. Looking at around $150 and a trip to a guitar shop!
That sounds about right. Not too bad, especially compared to the cost of a new bass. And as someone else mentioned, you can sell it if you ever do want to replace it with the real thing, but getting it fixed means you can do it on your own timeframe rather than feeling rushed into it.
I'd fix the Japanese lawsuit bass first, you could get a new wiring harness for around $100, or new genuine Ric pickups for around $75 each. There's nothing complicated about Ric wiring, just old-school pots and wire, sounds like maybe you are talking yourself out of an easy fix because you want the new Ric. I get it, they are a gorgeous piece of Kit, and my avatar might give you a clue as to my inclinations, but I wouldn't rack up any debt buying one, particularly since you already have something comparable. If you can't resist the Itch, used Rics are selling for the same or more than brand new, so I'd buy a brand new one. Better trussrod, better bridge, thinner neck, better finish. No brainer. If it's an instrument you'll gig, get the S model. I'm a sucker for the triangle inlays, binding, etc. aesthetically, but the hard edges definitely wear on my forearm a little, the S models are the more "practical" choice. Rics aren't heavy, and generally well balanced, but the walnut "W" models are typically around 1lb lighter than the maple ones.
BTW, there's a guy right here on TB who builds Ric harnesses better than OEM, PM @Aceonbass
BTW, there's a guy right here on TB who builds Ric harnesses better than OEM, PM @Aceonbass
Meant to say earlier thank you for this advice and suggestion! I've currently got a Ric Hi-Gain in the neck pickup but I've been thinking of swapping it out with a toaster for a little more classic look (again, that McCartney influence) and I know the bridge definitely needs to be replaced as it's probably not long for this world.
I have one of the Allparts Ric bridges on my first 4001 clone build, 10 years in with no sign of tail lift, and if it ever does, they are half the cost of an OEM replacement ric bridge. I think they are getting $190 for the V2 bridge, and it's a funky two-piece assembly that requires drilling new holes. It is indeed a lot easier to adjust, but unless you change string gauges all the time, the original bridge works fine. Neither the old or new bridge allow palm muting behind the bridge pickup, blocked by the nearly useless mute. I bought a couple toaster style pickups for a 4005-ish build in progress from Retrovibe UK, havent gotten even close to wiring them yet, so jury is out, but they are well reviewed, and have 4-wire setup for coli splitting, in/out of phase, etc.
