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who ain't me!
every oscilloscope rendering i've ever watched of a power amp being driven up to and beyond clip with a sine wave shows the tube amp's wave starting to gradually round off before it hits the supposed limit, at which point it keeps gradually rounding over until it creates that distinctive complex, pointy wave full of all those still-musical harmonics.
the typical ss amp keeps a perfect sine wave right up until it hits its max, at which point that wave gets chopped off hard and flat on top, and the more you drive it past that point the closer it gets to a straight-up nasty-sounding square wave.
Complete BS when you include MOSFET solid state amps."Nevertheless, valve designs produce predominantly low order harmonic overdrive (which is musically related), while solid state designs generally produce a full range of harmonic distortion, including the objectionable high order harmonics"
Good, solid ampsAll right I've decided to go with QSC PLX as they seem to offer what I'm looking for. Thanks for all the suggestions.
sure if it's about numbers, then mosfets will always win... if it's about clean sound and dB with volume.. then you've got a race. I've got 465 usable clean watts and almost 600 burst... most SS amps (even those rated at 1000w) will not achieve much more than 600 before you get wave distortion. But anyway.. the OP has what he needs in Jim Carrs response.
Actually... if the 600w is the typical vendor RMS/Program rating.. with SS amps the rule of thumb is to power with 1.5 to 2.25x the RMS rating of the speaker, to handle headroom (transient peaks) and maximize speaker output levels.You will be looking for an amp that makes 300-600 watts a channel into 4 ohms. The dcm 1500 is 550 I believe
Actually... if the 600w is the typical vendor RMS/Program rating.. with SS amps the rule of thumb is to power with 1.5 to 2.25x the RMS rating of the speaker, to handle headroom (transient peaks) and maximize speaker output levels.
IOW - that would make the need for an amp to produce 750w - 1350w per channel, or if single cab somewhere in that range in bridged mode. Most SS amps will not run less than 4-Ohms bridged.
This is false.
Based on what source???
Here's sample of mine... been repeated many times over the years.. and I can find plenty more.
"The rule of thumb for the past 40 or so years that I am aware of is 1.5 - 2x the speakers long term power rating, sometimes referred to by old school guys as RMS power handling, incorrectly by todays standards."
Can my amp power a sub?
I wasn't addressing underpowering.. I was talking about appropriately powering a speaker at a given rating to maximize output.And it is based on a false understanding of an old JBL paper. The myth has continued for years. There is no such thing as underpowering a speaker. The only way you damage a speaker is over powering it.
465w is ≠ to 600w
And miles larger than 2U.
sure if it's about numbers, then mosfets will always win... if it's about clean sound and dB with volume.. then you've got a race. I've got 465 usable clean watts and almost 600 burst... most SS amps (even those rated at 1000w) will not achieve much more than 600 before you get wave distortion. But anyway.. the OP has what he needs in Jim Carrs response.
"Nevertheless, valve designs produce predominantly low order harmonic overdrive (which is musically related), while solid state designs generally produce a full range of harmonic distortion, including the objectionable high order harmonics"
GM Arts - Guitar Amplifiers
i understand it to be the exact opposite, that the tube amp will begin to exhibit distortion that is indeed "musical" (and thus still sounds good) as it approaches the rated limit, while the ss amp stays clean 'til it hits the wall, at which point it starts to clip ugly.
anyway, asking about 2 rack spaces and 600w/side means that we're not talking about tube amps anymore, that ship has sailed.
i really like the older QSC PLX amps; USA-made, not very heavy, famously bulletproof, will get plenty loud when driven by less than super-hot preamps, and the selectable 30Hz filter is perfect for saving speakers while still bringing the low end.
i'm using a PLX 3002, one side for 900w/4Ω, and it crushes.
that wall is well below the wattage rating usually on SS, and well above on Tube.. the overdriven tone on a tube can occur at a low wattage however if the pre-amp is over driven.. that's a totally unrelated issue.
you are 100% correct.. the only issue is defining what is "max" for said amp. I assure you that a 900W SS amp is not going to run at 900W for very long (for thermo dynamic reasons). whereas a 465W tube amp can run at 465 for days.. Then lets not forget about the crossover distortion issue.
Crossover distortion is a product of class B operation or improperly aligned class A/B. SS or Tube.
I wasn't addressing underpowering.. I was talking about appropriately powering a speaker at a given rating to maximize output.
Underpowering is a whole different issue.
Fixed that for you.I wasn't addressing underpowering.. I was talking about appropriately powering a speaker at a given rating to maximize output.
Underpowering is a whole different NONissue.
Yep, rather have it and not need it...Yeah, 600 is a whole 2.2dB more.![]()
I wasn't addressing underpowering.. I was talking about appropriately powering a speaker at a given rating to maximize output.
Underpowering is a whole different issue.
To maximize output? WTH does that even mean? Underpowering isnt an issue. It doesnt exist.
Try again, 465w -> 600w is +1.14 db, barely noticeable.Yeah, 600 is a whole 2.2dB more.