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Powers Supply for Pedaltrain Nano+

#41
asbjornhjerrild said:
I think the CS6 covers all my needs, and for the price it might be an overall better option for me. Thanks a lot for the help!
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The CS6 is a fine power supply and will a great job and is indeed priced nicely.

However. If you want to mount it and don't want to use velcro for the power supply, you have to drill holes in your board. Then if you use velcro for your pedals, the ones that sit on top of the power supply screws will never be flat or solid. The Cioks DC7/Eventide PowerMAX has a clamp called 'Grip' which will mount these supplies to your board without drilling and without screws getting in the way.

Cioks or Eventide Grip under a Nano? YES!




.
 
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#43
mmbongo said:
The CS6 is a fine power supply and will a great job and is indeed priced nicely.

However. If you want to mount it and don't want to use velcro for the power supply, you have to drill holes in your board. Then if you use velcro for your pedals, the ones that sit on top of the power supply screws will never be flat or solid. The Cioks DC7/Eventide PowerMAX has a clamp called 'Grip' which will mount these supplies to your board without drilling and without screws getting in the way.

.
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Contact Truetone. They've changed the screws to flat heads instead of the round top screws they originally shipped with.
 
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#46
asbjornhjerrild said:
Still not sure whether the Truetone CS6 or CIOKS DC-5/7, is the better choice for me... what are the most significant differences?
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asbjornhjerrild said:
Is 5 outputs enough? Because at this point in time I’m leaning towards the DC-5, but I’m still not sure wether it’s worth spending that extra cash on the DC-7 for the additional features and outputs.
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If this message board has taught me anything, it's that pedal use/collecting is a slippery slope. As you get into setting your board up and using effects for a bit, you will probably find yourself wanting to try some different stuff, swap things around, etc. So having a couple extra outputs never hurts if you can afford it in terms of the space/money.

Also, I've done this with my Nano+ and my old Metro20 board. You can buy some rubber feet/bumpers that will fit right over the existing feet on the Nano+ to give it another 1/2"-1" of clearance. It gives you more clearance in general, and you can mount with velcro instead of drilling if you want to go that route. It will still fit in the carrying case with no problems. For my Nano, I just used some flexible adhesive (maybe shoe-goo but any strong glue that binds to rubber will work) to keep the rubber feet secure...
 
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#47
Here’s my current Nano+ with CS6. As @mmbongo has mentioned, you’ll need to be careful about the screws you’ll use to make the velcro work. I replaced those that came with my CS6 with flatheads, no problems so far. (e.g. the past half year or so.)

D62EFF1C-BBCF-464A-AB8A-52442AC9564B.jpeg

E34C48E8-4B9A-4385-8CD7-AAFC53447F37.jpeg
 
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#48
asbjornhjerrild said:
Is 5 outputs enough? Because at this point in time I’m leaning towards the DC-5, but I’m still not sure wether it’s worth spending that extra cash on the DC-7 for the additional features and outputs.
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I have both a Truetone CS6 (under a PedalTrain Metro) and a Cioks DC5 (actually two DC-5s, one under a Nano and another under an old PedalTrain Mini).

Here’s my main guitar pedalboard (with everything on a now out-of-production PedalTrain Mini), all powered with a DC-5 underneath:
BD69A251-DFC7-4771-B04B-AFB7FBA1D499.jpeg

None of these are high draw pedals, and you can connect multiple low or medium draw pedals together off one outlet. Some pedals are sensitive to whether they can share a power outlet or not, or which other pedals they can share with, so you might have to experiment. Basically, I put high draw digital pedals or noisey pedals on their own outlet
 
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#49
asbjornhjerrild said:
Is 5 outputs enough? Because at this point in time I’m leaning towards the DC-5, but I’m still not sure wether it’s worth spending that extra cash on the DC-7 for the additional features and outputs.
Click to expand...
Don’t forget you can daisy-chain from one or two of the higher-amperage outputs. If you’re careful what type of pedals you connect together, noise shouldn't be an issue even though the daisy-chained pedals aren't isolated separately, but in bulk.
 
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#50
For the Metro 24 board, which I plan to work on wiring together tomorrow as I just bought some power cables that I needed to finish it, I went with the Truetone CS6 instead of the Cioks DC5 because I want to be able to power a Digitech SDRUM pedal that requires 500mA of power, which the CIOKS DC5 can’t do (max current outlet is 300mA).

The point - consider the pedals you might want to put on there and their power requirements when choosing a power supply
 
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#51
Regarding pedals, I’ll just say that I like the PolyTune 2 mini tuner over the Boss tuner. The Polytune is smaller, more accurate, let’s you check the tuning of all the strings at once with one strum, and is true bypass.

The Polytune mini 3 is the same as the Polytune 2 mini except it adds a switchable buffer and draws more power. Since I don’t need a buffer and want to keep the power draw low, I prefer the 2 mini.

YMMV :)
 
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#52
I attach my DC5s (and now my CS6) under the board with 3M DualLock instead of the provided mounting solutions. On the negative side, the DualLock does add just enough depth that the power supply would bottom out on the floor, so I then replace the feet of my flat Pedaltrain boards with some stick-on car door bumper material I got in the auto parts section of a Walmart-like department store. On the positive side, I can just switch the power supply out to another board by pulling it off.
The black bumpy material there is what I cut up into legs (each section becomes a leg):
2663E817-96B4-4E3F-A6D4-D4AD7908BEB8.jpeg

And they go under the board where the original short legs were riveted on:
FB396B80-E9EC-4E9B-837F-03B94726246E.jpeg

Then everything is up off the floor. The replacement legs just add a little bit of height. Removing the old legs requires simply drilling out the center rivet with a drill bit:
7DD1CE05-5B66-413A-8D9D-ADE2B2AB5B5F.jpeg
 
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#53
Strymon Ojai has worked great for my Nano+ boards as long as I don't need 12 or 18 volt taps. The Ojai R30 fits as well IIRC if you do need them.

I like the Zuma R300 a lot as well but my recollection is it didn't fit under my Nano + when I tried. It's just about perfect paired up w/ an Ojai under a Metro 24 for me. It screws to the board & gets rid of the laptop style inverter under the board (which hasn't caused any big problems for me aside from being another thing velcro'd to the under side).
 
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#54
I want to downsize and am looking at the Nano+. I have a voodoo labs pedal power 2.
Pedal train website says you can attach to the bottom if you mod the front feet to give it some height.

Has anyone done this with pedal power 2?
 
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#55
Sascha Erni said:
Here’s my current Nano+ with CS6. As @mmbongo has mentioned, you’ll need to be careful about the screws you’ll use to make the velcro work. I replaced those that came with my CS6 with flatheads, no problems so far. (e.g. the past half year or so.)

View attachment 3859502
View attachment 3859503
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How're you powering the bass butler, I can't seem to plug any cable other than the original psi into it??
 
#56
AndyMaidens said:
How're you powering the bass butler, I can't seem to plug any cable other than the original psi into it??
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I tried to use the polarity reversal cable that shipped with the CS6. But it was a tiny bit too tight a fit, so I took the reversal cable that came with my Diamond Bass Comp. That one worked well (and the CS6 reversal cable works just fine with the Diamond). So, in short, if you have the chance, give various polarity reversal patches a shot. I hope though Orange will make the plug a little more lenient in a later revision.
 
#58
My small pedal train has a Sweetfoot. The PowerMax is on my larger board. The Sweetfoot is tiny and provides plenty of power. i was powering up an HX Stomp, 12 ax7 based Particle Accellerator, Polytune Mini... the HX and PAx are both fairly high draw units.
 
#60
For 6-7 years I haven't used a board, I've just manually wired 1-3 pedals on the floor in front of my rig: long story short, I have a collection of two dozen dirt pedals and use different combos from gig to gig (fickle ears). That apparently annoys my guitarist brother :D, who bought me a Nano+ for Xmas. I was thinking about wiring it with my Voodoo Labs ISO-5 plus 3 other pedals (one of my favorite stacking combos) on top, but of course an under-board PS makes more sense: I could then fit 4 or 5 pedals on top.

I totally get that non-isolated power is less expensive, and probably good enough for me: I'm an analog guy, don't use any fancy digital stuff. That said, I've read that issues caused by non-iso power can be hard to troubleshoot, and an experienced guy I trust said "better safe than sorry", so I'm gonna go ISO.

Anyway: awesome thread, got some great ideas for under-board ISO PSes. :thumbsup:
 

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