Problem with my Nut

[AHWells]

Now before anyone goes all elementary about the title, hahaha you're so imaginative .

Now, back to it.

My ESP LTD F-4E buzzes heavily mostly on the E string, but also on A at the first fret as well as open string, but plays perfectly elsewhere, I have added a slight bit of bow to the neck but it still buzzes, and my last point of possibility is the nut. I have super light and super long scale strings, and adjusted the rod based off of a straight-edge rocked to get rid of back-bow.

Is it possible that my nut is too low? I also had trouble with a set of strings I ordered that the scale length was incorrect, and shaved a small ramp on the nut face facing the bridge for the E string. I'll post pictures of this in a later edit.

rather than a U shape, the nut slot it is now more like an underscored U

any help would be appreciated. also, how would I go about fixing this issue?

if it is the ramp made by the incorrect set of strings, what would be the best fix? Epoxy Resin would just file out over time but it might work until I can replace the nut or just buy a new bass altogether (I have been eyeing up a warwick in my local store for weeks now... too bad its a double $$ ). any ideas?

 

[Sam Evans]

It is indeed possible that your nut is too low. (Tee hee ... ). It may need to be shimmed. A qualified guitar / bass repair person should be able to do that for you, or at least diagnose the problem.

 

[Turnaround]

My ESP LTD F-4E buzzes heavily mostly on the E string, but also on A at the first fret as well as open string

Once you fret the string at the first fret, any buzzing you hear is not because the nut is too low. The nut is no longer in the equation at that point. I'd look elsewhere for the cause of your problem. Check that the relief is correct and if you still have buzz on the first few frets and open string, look for high frets.

 

[lethargytartare]

My ESP LTD F-4E buzzes heavily mostly on the E string, but also on A at the first fret as well as open string, but plays perfectly elsewhere,

2nd fret might be high -- check with a fret rocker.

I also had trouble with a set of strings I ordered that the scale length was incorrect, and shaved a small ramp on the nut face facing the bridge for the E string.

You could very well have lowered that slot too much -- and may also have impacted your intonation (by changing the witness point). That could be the cause of your open string buzzing on the E.

I have super light and super long scale strings, and adjusted the rod based off of a straight-edge rocked to get rid of back-bow.

I think that's a formula that would guarantee quite a bit of clatter and buzz depending on how hard you style of playing is.

rather than a U shape, the nut slot it is now more like an underscored U

I wouldn't assume that the shape of the bottom of the slot is an issue -- the witness point/break-angle of it, yes.

if it is the ramp made by the incorrect set of strings, what would be the best fix? Epoxy Resin would just file out over time but it might work until I can replace the nut or just buy a new bass altogether

"Ramp made by the incorrect set of strings" not sure what you're suggesting there, but you can do a workable job of beefing up the slot with baking soda and some thin superglue.

But really, you've filed the slot and have issues there, you have other setup issues, you might have strings that are ill-suited to the instrument -- I would say it's time for a tech. Or get back to basics and work through the issues one at a time following the guides you can find here and on the web -- patiently, methodically working through a setup can give you valuable skills and can help you fix some things and properly identify those things you CAN'T fix

good luck, man!
ltt

 

[AHWells]

2nd fret might be high -- check with a fret rocker.




You could very well have lowered that slot too much -- and may also have impacted your intonation (by changing the witness point). That could be the cause of your open string buzzing on the E.




I think that's a formula that would guarantee quite a bit of clatter and buzz depending on how hard you style of playing is.



I wouldn't assume that the shape of the bottom of the slot is an issue -- the witness point/break-angle of it, yes.



"Ramp made by the incorrect set of strings" not sure what you're suggesting there, but you can do a workable job of beefing up the slot with baking soda and some thin superglue.

But really, you've filed the slot and have issues there, you have other setup issues, you might have strings that are ill-suited to the instrument -- I would say it's time for a tech. Or get back to basics and work through the issues one at a time following the guides you can find here and on the web -- patiently, methodically working through a setup can give you valuable skills and can help you fix some things and properly identify those things you CAN'T fix

good luck, man!
ltt

I must say, you've given me a very good range of possibilities, thank you, you also gave me some ideas but a tech is my last option, I'd rather attempt a fix on my own, purely because the bass is new(-ish) and the only damaged/irregular component (besides the stripped factory pickup height screw that I replaced -.-) is that slot. I never would've thought of baking soda and super glue, I may try that.

Fortunately, I learned a long time ago that theres no point playing hard, the amp does the playing for you. and if I want a heavier sound, I just "martinie tap" lol xD but luckily, I don't play hard, I just love the feel of lighter strings. Not to mention at times I tune to tenor tuning, but not often.

 

[levis76]

purely because the bass is new(-ish) and the only damaged/irregular component (besides the stripped factory pickup height screw that I replaced -.-) is that slot. I never would've thought of baking soda and super glue, I may try that.

I purchased a brand new ESP LTD DF-404 several years back, a badass top of the line limited run LTD model. Neck thru, EMG DC40 p'ups, EMG 3 band pre, and a wicked tribal inlay. After I purchased it brand new, I took it straight to a great tech I know for a proper setup. Right off he took the strings off and started checking the frets. They were horrendous, several frets were visibly higher. Next he popped the nut off and flipped it over to show me that it was hollow and then he grabbed a lighter and began melting it, proving it was made of cheap plastic! I couldn't believe that a bass I had just bought brand new for $650 could be this bad. For $100 flat he levelled the frets, installed a bone nut, and did a full setup including a fresh set of Rotosound rounds. Best $100 I ever spent. Bass played like a million bucks for several years without anymore than a battery and fresh set of strings now and again.

Point is, just because it's new(-ish) doesn't mean it (and you) couldn't benefit a tech giving it a once over. For just a nut, most decent shops charge less than $50 and it includes a setup after the nut is installed. Shop around a bit and you just might find a tech that'll give you a decent deal.

 

[Foamy]

To check the nut and the slots in the nut, just put your finger on the string at the nut while playing to see if the sound goes away.
As stated, if you get a buzz when fretting, the problem is NOT the depth of the slot; however, it could be the breakover angle.
Now, I HAVE heard buzz at the nut even when fretting - again, not a slot depth problem, but rather the breakover angle.
You should always try and get an extra wind on the E and especially the A strings.

 

[two fingers]

Take it to a tech. Consider a string tree as well.