• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Double Bass Proper string height

#41
John Goldsby said:
Mmm . . . I would beg to differ because when I play electric, my technique is much different from my double bass pizz technique. The way I always explain my r.h. pizzicato technique:
  1. My right hand is at the end of the fingerboard.
  2. I strike through the string, rather than pull the string.
  3. The r.h. index finger is moving in a slight circular motion, which is generated by the wrist (not from the elbow or shoulder). I often explain that it's like dribbling a basketball. The faster I need to dribble, the smaller the motion gets.
  4. Once again, the r.h. finger strikes the string and gets off as quickly as possible, to get a loud, percussive snap. The motion determines the sound.
  5. Your sound will not be big, warm, or in-time unless your r.h. attack is precisely coordinated with the left hand pressing the note down.
  6. The left hand and right hand work in concert to get the tone out of the bass.

These right-hand techniques work with one-finger or two-fingers. In discussions with Ray Brown, Christian McBride and other bass players, we tend to concur that it's the left-hand factor that players ignore when working on getting a big, pleasant, warm sound. If the left hand isn't in sync, then nothing you do with the right hand will create a "good" sound (except maybe on the open strings). The left hand needs to be pressed down at exactly the right time, with exactly the correct amount of pressure to make the note speak / jump out/ or sing. Not too much pressure, not too little pressure — just the right amount.
Click to expand...
I've been experimenting with this and SOaB if it's not working for me! I'm finding the trick is just as John describes, strike quickly through the string at the end of the fingerboard. Not exactly comfortable at first but I was pleased to be able to get a similar loudness and tone as with my index finger parallel to the strings approach. The tone for me is just a bit different. A bit more percussive, actually, with more attack. So, thanks again John, one more bow in my quiver!
And, for the record, I measured my string height: 6 at G and 9 at E. I tried higher but found that it didn't make a noticeable difference when playing through am amp, just as my teacher predicted. Still, as John said, different setups and players require different things.
 
#47
Sorry for the zombie thread. Just bought my first URB, an Englehardt EM1 from 2008. It was used only as a decoration, so it’s practically unplayed. It has an ash fingerboard!

Anyway, the brand new bridge puts the strings at 11mm (G), 15mm (D), 15mm (A), and 12mm (E). Obviously higher than the recommended (opinion) 5-8mm. The bridge seems to measure 6 7/8” high.

Does a luthier reshape the whole thing to get that “recommended” height?
 
#48
JehuJava said:
Sorry for the zombie thread. Just bought my first URB, an Englehardt EM1 from 2008. It was used only as a decoration, so it’s practically unplayed. It has an ash fingerboard!

Anyway, the brand new bridge puts the strings at 11mm (G), 15mm (D), 15mm (A), and 12mm (E). Obviously higher than the recommended (opinion) 5-8mm. The bridge seems to measure 6 7/8” high.

Does a luthier reshape the whole thing to get that “recommended” height?
Click to expand...
I should have mentioned the bass is strung with metal flatwounds with a purple silk.
 
#49
JehuJava said:
Sorry for the zombie thread. Just bought my first URB, an Englehardt EM1 from 2008. It was used only as a decoration, so it’s practically unplayed. It has an ash fingerboard!

Anyway, the brand new bridge puts the strings at 11mm (G), 15mm (D), 15mm (A), and 12mm (E). Obviously higher than the recommended (opinion) 5-8mm. The bridge seems to measure 6 7/8” high.

Does a luthier reshape the whole thing to get that “recommended” height?
Click to expand...
The whole arching of the bridge will probably be reshaped since it seems like the curve of the bridge doesn't match the curve of the fingerboard in addition to the strings being super high, and if the bridge has adjusters it will probably be cut lower than 5-8 mm when the adjusters are bottomed out to give a little wiggle room at the lowest extreme.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Povl Carstensen and Chris Fitzgerald
#50
the_Ryan said:
The whole arching of the bridge will probably be reshaped since it seems like the curve of the bridge doesn't match the curve of the fingerboard in addition to the strings being super high, and if the bridge has adjusters it will probably be cut lower than 5-8 mm when the adjusters are bottomed out to give a little wiggle room at the lowest extreme.
Click to expand...
Gotcha. I guess I’m surprised stock fixed bridges appear to be so high. Thanks for the info!
 
#53
bassmanbrent said:
Stock bridges are actually 'blanks' that need considerable shaping, reducing and thinning to fit an individual instrument and the preferences of the player.
Click to expand...
To elaborate, more so than almost any other instrument, basses vary dramatically in size and shape, so it’s impossible to have “stock parts”. It’s even the case for “factory” instruments.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back