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Question about bass boost active preamp...

just wondering if I had to get someone to pull the boost out to be completely passive.

Why would you want to do that? Passive isn't better than active. It's just different. I like boosting some lows on my active basses. If you remove the preamp, you can't boost anything, and you might not like the tone either. If Fender put that in there, maybe they think the bass is thin sounding.
 
Why would you want to do that? Passive isn't better than active. It's just different. I like boosting some lows on my active basses. If you remove the preamp, you can't boost anything, and you might not like the tone either. If Fender put that in there, maybe they think the bass is thin sounding.

I have a P bass special as well, and I like the sound of it a bit better. I also tend to run the Jag with the boost down, or at 1/4 up, which can be done at my amp. According to all specs I can find, the pups are the same. Maybe Fender thinks the bass is thin sounding, but I'd like to find out. :) Besides, any mod done can be undone. Not a question of better or worse electronics, more better or worse sound. Thanks!
 
I have the same bass. It's modified now, but I didn't use the bass boost too much. It seemed to boomy at higher settings. At the moment, it's straight passive. The J-pup is decently fat. I think the P-pup might be a bit brighter than my P-Bass, but I wouldn't call it thin. Personally, I never got why they just put a bass boost in it.
 
Personally, I never got why they just put a bass boost in it.

It is a weird choice. But it's probably because most of the time people with active tone controls boost the low end a little. Thats' what I do. Then if the bass is already bright, you have the tone control to reduce the high end. They probably figured mist people don't boost the highs that often.

But only they know for sure.
 
I have the same bass. It's modified now, but I didn't use the bass boost too much. It seemed to boomy at higher settings. At the moment, it's straight passive. The J-pup is decently fat. I think the P-pup might be a bit brighter than my P-Bass, but I wouldn't call it thin. Personally, I never got why they just put a bass boost in it.

Cool! Thanks for the info. Good stuff, now I just have to decide. :)
 
I thought I might piggyback my question on this thread. From what I read, the pickups are passive, but the circuit is active, right? If you have an amp with a passive and an active input jack choice, which do you use for a bass like the squier jaguar vintage modified special?
 
I thought I might piggyback my question on this thread. From what I read, the pickups are passive, but the circuit is active, right? If you have an amp with a passive and an active input jack choice, which do you use for a bass like the squier jaguar vintage modified special?

Active/passive input labeling is a bit of a misnomer. In most cases, it actually has nothing to do with the instrument being active or passive. You should always choose the "passive" input, unless you have a signal that is so hot that the input distorts. In that case, you must use the "active" input, as the "active" input is usually padded. Using the "active" input unnecessarily, generally results in tone suck.
 
Active/passive input labeling is a bit of a misnomer. In most cases, it actually has nothing to do with the instrument being active or passive. You should always choose the "passive" input, unless you have a signal that is so hot that the input distorts. In that case, you must use the "active" input, as the "active" input is usually padded. Using the "active" input unnecessarily, generally results in tone suck.

I see. Thank you.
 
to OP-
You can get someone to install a push/pull bypass switch if there's enough space in the cavity, then you can use the boost or not, by choice.

That is what I did last night. Here is what I found out, the boost circuit at minimum sounds exactly like the passive pickups with the Active Bass Boost disconnected. The only thing I gained by putting the push/pull bypass switch-Pot is the ability to play passively in the event I loose battery etc. but it was still worth the mod.
 
Great, good news-
And as 'line6man' said: "You should always choose the "passive" input, unless you have a signal that is so hot that the input distorts. In that case, you must use the "active" input, as the "active" input is usually padded. Using the "active" input unnecessarily, generally results in tone suck."
 
I have a P bass special as well, and I like the sound of it a bit better. I also tend to run the Jag with the boost down, or at 1/4 up, which can be done at my amp. According to all specs I can find, the pups are the same. Maybe Fender thinks the bass is thin sounding, but I'd like to find out. :) Besides, any mod done can be undone. Not a question of better or worse electronics, more better or worse sound. Thanks!
 
There has to be a way to bypass the whole pre amp and wire it up passive that makes them normal. why cause somebody screwed up the wires on a bass ive been trying to get working for a week now and am about to ship it to ibanez and tell them to shove the bass straight up their ass. why cant people just answer the question how can it be wired up in a passive way dont ask why is there a way to do it or not. If not Ive spent enpugh money on this pice of poopie bass its probably going in the trash.
 
Didn't see the posts above about the preamp bypass switch?
Or
Just keep the pickups with their bal/vol pots, dis-connect the signal wire from the vol pot to preamp and connect a tone pot between it and the jack.
 

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