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Question For Active/Passive Players

I was thinking that those who have an Active/Passive switch on their basses, what do you do for the higher output when you hit the Active switch?

Are you running through a limiter or do you just let it run at that higher pre-value and don't worry about the overdrive?

How does the amp handle the hotter signal?
 
I don't use my active mode often, but when I do use it and I have some gain increase via the 3-band EQ, I compensate for the hotter signal with the master volume knob. My LH1000 has two separate jacks for active and passive, but most of the time (unless I know I'll have my preamp on the whole show) I just keep it plugged into the Passive jack and normalize the volume with the knob if I feel the need to go active.
 
I tend to play in Active mode, and if I'm about to go to Passive, I just switch really fast, and use my master volume to set my levels at generally the same volume. Same vice versa, I have my EQ set up already when in passive mode, and when switching to active, I just have to adjust the volume, and very very little to the EQ.
 
I guess it would be hard then to use the Active for a lead and switch back for Passive in the groove-part of the same song.

I don't see why not. When running through my practice amp I can switch from passive to active all I like and it's never distorted. For me, the master volume adjustment is more about volume consistency than protecting my amp, which in your hypothetical situation wouldn't matter anyway, as you'd want the lead to be louder. If your amp doesn't have 2 separate jacks, I'd say anything goes so long as you don't hear a "boom."
 
Maybe use a passive bass and an EQ pedal?

That went over my head.

I was wondering about those with basses that have switches on them to go from Passive to Active and the effect it has on the input to the pre-amp and how it was compensated.

I don't think a stomp could accomplish that unless there were two jack-outs on the bass, one for Active and the other for Passive and then a stomp could be used - I think.

Anyway it was just an exercise in what might be accomplished, nothing really major involved.

But I learned something tonight.
 
I was wondering about those with basses that have switches on them to go from Passive to Active and the effect it has on the input to the pre-amp and how it was compensated.

When I still had an active/passive switch in my bass I just set the preamp gain to match the passive output.

Eventually I just wired the bass to be active all the time since I never ever used passive mode anyway.
 
I usually pick one mode and stick to it on my L-2000, but it comes in handy sometimes. There are parts where I'm playing drums & bass at the same time in my band, so I flip into Active for a volume/sustain boost to make it easier to play one handed.
It's also good to start in passive and be able to get a volume bump if needed without having to go the amp.

I do run a compressor near the front of my chain, so that can even things out a bit if needed.
 
None of the active basses I've owned (going back to my first StingRay arounc 1979) have been noticeably hotter than any of my passive basses. That includes pre E-B 'Rays, Guild Pilots (with EMG PUPs, one with a pre-amp, one with passive controls), four Laklands with Barts, and a mongrel fretless with the Duncan/Basslines Steve Bailey pre-amp in it.

So, it's not a problem at all.

John