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Question for our experts - why aren't more amps designed for 2 ohm loads?

I agree, but if you don’t your options are more limited. I have 2 x 8 ohm 112s and a 4 ohm 110, if for some reason I ever wanted to run a 12 and 10 I’d need a different amp.
That's why I have larger 4-Ohm cabs. Not “modular”, but not real heavy or hard to manipulate.

I'm certainly not saying 2-Ohm capability is a bad thing, I have a rack rig to run two 4-Ohm cabs if I ever wanted to, and if I thought I'd do it on a regular basis, I'd go get a small/light 2-Ohm head. :)
 
When you see how loud you get be with a modern 2x12 @ 4Ohm and a 800W amp, who would need more?
Yeah, I have a Yamaha BBT-500H that does 2 ohms, and a pair of 4 ohm GK 212MBE-II cabs. It was awesome to power up both cabs when I was playing in a punk-metal power trio, but for just about any other application just one of the 2x12s is plenty ample.
 
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Sone of the older Peavey amps were 2ohm, like 400 Series amps from the late seventies.

I played across Canada with one. It went down to 2, altho I only took it 4, with two Traynor 810s.

It came with the 2-15 cabinet. IIRC it was in AB, Red Deer maybe, that I traded it for a Traynor 810 (different array than Ampeg and superior; allegedly made for Jimi's Toronto concert).
 
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I’m by no means an expert, but to add my own perspective to the discussion, I have noted that, at least in the recent past, amps were designed with certain cabinets in mind to be paired. Kind of a way that the company could make two sales in one. For instance, when I purchased my Ampeg 1540he I realized that it was designed with two of Ampeg’s heads they made at the time in mind: the SVT 400T in a bi-amped configuration and the SVT II. The cab was a bit of a headache if you did not have one with it being 8 ohm in full or 2x4 ohm with both sections separated, which would be 2 ohm if run into one normal head. When I had a SVT 450H I was then forced into only having access to about 275 of the 450 watts available, which was fine, but it was just a bit annoying. Eventually got an SVT-VR that was essentially the same as the SVT II as far as the ohms go, so everything is simpatico I suppose .

But, yes, at least in the past, especially during the whole “bi-amp” era they seem to have a pairing of head and cab in mind when designing them, and they seem to have somewhat kept with that philosophy.

Anyway, that’s my 2 cents on the subject from a consumer’s standpoint.
 
You beat me to it.
I never thought of Peaveys as being more complicated, therefore more costly. Back then Peaveys were looked down upon as uncool because they were cheaper. But before class D they,'ve always been thought of as robust and reliable.
Standard joke: after the Apocalypse all that will remain are roaches and Peavey amps. And maybe SM58s.
You forgot about Keith Richard’s
 
When I see Markbass publishing 4x6" (equivalent to 1x12") cab 100dB/1w/1m and Ampeg 8x10" (roughly 5.5x12") publishes the same 100dB/1w/1m, I tend not to trust any figures.
Instead of cynically assuming everyone lies, it's more beneficial to get a sense of which ones are publishing honest measurements, which ones are finessing their measurements a little, and which ones are making up numbers entirely.
 
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I wouldn't own a head that didn't go to 2 ohms. Not because I necessarily need it, but I like the flexibility. If enough people want it that way, other builders will start to make it happen. If not, that's cool. There are plenty of builders currently that do make 2 ohm capable heads. Bergantino, Mesa, Aguilar to name a few. Hard to go wrong with any of them.
 
I wouldn't own a head that didn't go to 2 ohms. Not because I necessarily need it, but I like the flexibility. If enough people want it that way, other builders will start to make it happen. If not, that's cool. There are plenty of builders currently that do make 2 ohm capable heads. Bergantino, Mesa, Aguilar to name a few. Hard to go wrong with any of them.
Correct, and for those who are emphatic that "it can't be done successfully", there are 3 examples to prove that they simply don't have the design chops to be able to do so. These are also amps that have longer than average warranties too so clearly there's nothing to fear regarding reliability.
 
I wouldn't own a head that didn't go to 2 ohms. Not because I necessarily need it, but I like the flexibility. If enough people want it that way, other builders will start to make it happen. If not, that's cool. There are plenty of builders currently that do make 2 ohm capable heads. Bergantino, Mesa, Aguilar to name a few. Hard to go wrong with any of them.
My Elf is a handy amp-no need to run it @2 ohms.
I’ve got other rigs for that.
 
My Elf is a handy amp-no need to run it @2 ohms.
I’ve got other rigs for that.
For smaller amps there’s no compelling reason to run at 2 ohms because generally they are being used with one smaller cabinet and maybe two, with a reasonable expectation of maximum volume.
 
These are also amps that have longer than average warranties too so clearly there's nothing to fear regarding reliability.

As well as fantastic manuals to help the user best understand the equipment. The time it takes to document a complex product well costs money. Money that some, even most, manufacturers don't bother to spend.
 
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The length of the cable is an essential part of determining the losses in the cable. For a 6’ cable, even 14 gauge cable is plenty heavy for 2 ohm operation, and I have the math to show why.
I would be hesitant to agree with this, but that could be because I worked as an electrician all my life.
As an electrician I always work with constant loads when working out cable sizes, music is not a constant load.

Saying 14 gauge is ok for 2 ohm without taking into account the watts going into the 2 ohm cab or any other factors is a slight hickup for me, especially since that could refer to a 200 watt cab or a 1200 watt cab. (Yes I know who Agedhorse is and I do respect his opinion greatly)

If my mind is working today then an 800 watt amp going into a 2 ohm speaker would be close to 20 amps, I think 14 gauge wire is a bit too small for 20 amps even if the losses might not be too bad for a short run.
Cables will always be downrated by heat as well so if you are playing outdoors in full sun the black leads can get fairly hot just from the sun, there are many factors to consider.
Another thing to consider is the style of music, soft bass in a mellow jazz group or a bloke who is trying to smash his strings as hard and fast as he can playing his latest crazy doom sludge.

At least most modern amps usually have 2 speaker outlets, 2 separate 4 ohm cabs that have their own cable going back to the amp will make a 2 ohm setup, but each cab is still considered a 4 ohm run when working out the cable rating since the parallel connection is in the amp.
I would never recommend piggybacking one speaker from the back of another speaker when using high power amps, run a separate cable to each speaker from the amp if possible.
 
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