I just received my Hakko, and will start practicing soon. What is the proper temp needed for working on the electronics in the bass?
Thank you for your time.
Thank you for your time.
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Quick soldering question.
- Thread starter G19Tony
- Start date
It varies, but the range seems to be between 675 and 800 degrees. Wattage is really what to look for. Many irons in the 25-50W range will do, just be very mindful of how long you let an iron touch a component. The longer the contact, the higher the risk of damaging a component.
Personally, I love my 50W Weller set at around 775 degrees for guitar work.
Personally, I love my 50W Weller set at around 775 degrees for guitar work.
My understanding is that higher wattage does not necessarily equate to higher temperature, it just means that heat-up time and recovery time are much quicker. With that being said, I'm not familiar with your model of iron. If it has temperature control on it, then I would start around 700 and work your way up until you arrive at a temperature that works well with your reaction time and skill level.
Yes at least 650 degrees needed to melt solder.
Minimize the time you heat the two items.
Make sure wires are clean, apply heat, count 1000,2000,3000, apply solder,
let it flow,remove iron. Longer time needed for larger items soldered.
Minimize the time you heat the two items.
Make sure wires are clean, apply heat, count 1000,2000,3000, apply solder,
let it flow,remove iron. Longer time needed for larger items soldered.
My first training event will be just tinning scrap wire. Then, I'll move to soldering them together. And watching YT videos. 
Just so you don't accidentally set your Hakko WAY too high - note that these guys are talking in fahrenheit, not centigradeMy first training event will be just tinning scrap wire. Then, I'll move to soldering them together. And watching YT videos.
Ah be brave. Start wiring up those 96 point patch bays. By the time you get done with a few you'll be good.
If you're using rosin core 60/40 I never had to turn it higher than 700. I turn it up to 750 for lead free. If you're just soldering wires to pots and jacks you don't need extra flux.
Sometimes it makes more sense to use a higher wattage iron, because if you have a nice sharp tip, it's easier to heat a smaller area and get the solder to flow before the heat can travel through, melt, or destroy the component.
I've done 1000's of XLR and phone plugs this way as well. Lotsa heat, solder on RIGHT NOW, and then take the tip away quickly. It does take some learned coordination. You can do this.
I've done 1000's of XLR and phone plugs this way as well. Lotsa heat, solder on RIGHT NOW, and then take the tip away quickly. It does take some learned coordination. You can do this.
Just so you don't accidentally set your Hakko WAY too high - note that these guys are talking in fahrenheit, not centigrade
Yep. I'm going to set it to fahrenheit. I've been reading the instructions.
SirMjac28
Patiently Waiting For The Next British Invasion
What's a great beginner kit and what solder does everyone recommend for simple repair jobs?
It has a small chisel tip that came with it. I was thinking about getting a pointed tip.
While I've been getting mine from Radio Shack, this is what I've been using for working on basses, .020" leaded rosin core solder with narrow chisel tips. I on't recall off the top of my head what I've got my Hakko dialed to but I think is just over half way up. I prefer leaded because it seems to flow quicker for me. If you are buying tinned components from ROHS compliant manufacturers, leaded solder can fail to bond when you apply it so make sure before you commit to using pots or components with tinned leads they are not tinned with lead free solder before you choose what kind of solder to use and use the solder to match. If it's not tinned, either will work, if it's tinned, get whatever it's tinned with.
Oh and Lead free tends to gloss more than leaded solder.
Solder Leaded 63/37 Rosin Core / .020
Oh and Lead free tends to gloss more than leaded solder.
Solder Leaded 63/37 Rosin Core / .020
BOOM. Asking the real questions...
For solder, can't go wrong with a spool of Kester 60/40. Thinner is better, much easier to control heat and melt times. 1lb will keep you set for quite a while.
As for a beginner kits, set aside a couple of bucks and just order a few from Amazon (doesn't really matter what). This will help in a couple of ways. First they'll be simple circuits and you'll get a to see a light blink or a get a buzzer to buzz, which will provide some gratification for completing something. Second, they're not the highest quality - PCBs will melt, pads will be on one side and lift easily, and things won't heat evenly. Basically, if you can make one of these mongrels blink or buzz, you're in good shape for getting something of actual value to work.
Cables are always good practice too. Get 20-30 ft of nice instrument cable (e.g. Mogami, Canare) and some quality ends (e.g. Switchcraft, Neutrik, Amphenol) and treat yourself. For $15 you can make a cable that someone would gladly charge you $50+.
Also invest in aloe. You WILL burn yourself.
There is no one temperature.I just received my Hakko, and will start practicing soon. What is the proper temp needed for working on the electronics in the bass?
Thank you for your time.
Time of contact, size of tip, power of iron, size of stuff you solder, type of solder, all make a difference.
Soldering a small wire to one post on a pot is a whole different deal than soldering that same size wire to the back of the pot.
My $0.02: get a third hand. For beginners it's a HUGE help.
Personally, I wouldn't go down that route. What you are attempting to do is apply heat to two surfaces, say the wire and the pot lug, and then add some solder to join them together. A chisel tip will allow you to get more heat into both parts more efficiently. Personally, I've never used a pointy tip, even for small electronic components, but I know other folk who swear by them (rather than at them). My Hakko is at 750F, using 60/40 0.015" solder. But the best tip of all is practice. Lots and lots of soldering and checking you have nice bright shiny joints (no dull grey). Lots o' luck!
Solder sucker and braid should be on hand.
Don't freak out if you have to crank to 800 to demo some factory joints.
It'll be a trip for you to get used to turning off your Hakko when you don't need it, then crank it back on fast when you do.
It's isn't a cheapie $8 iron, it's ok to turn it off while you are figuring stuff out or setting up to do runs.
Harbor Freight multi size pack of shrink wrap is nice.
A nice Klein stripper is a must for me.
Tin your tip, a wet sponge is nice to have, sandpaper is best when you melt plastic onto your tip.
The $ octopus arm helping hands is actually nice if you wanna setup a bunch of passes for an efficient run.
Don't freak out if you have to crank to 800 to demo some factory joints.
It'll be a trip for you to get used to turning off your Hakko when you don't need it, then crank it back on fast when you do.
It's isn't a cheapie $8 iron, it's ok to turn it off while you are figuring stuff out or setting up to do runs.
Harbor Freight multi size pack of shrink wrap is nice.
A nice Klein stripper is a must for me.
Tin your tip, a wet sponge is nice to have, sandpaper is best when you melt plastic onto your tip.
The $ octopus arm helping hands is actually nice if you wanna setup a bunch of passes for an efficient run.
