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Quick soldering question.

I do have a fondness for that plastic jeweled pastel smoothie Star Trek design aesthetic.
I enjoy the modern straight from IKEAness of the Hakko FX888D.


ikea.jpg


hakko_fx_888d.jpg
 
I use a Weller WES51 with a pointed tip (ETL, I think). It certainly helps to have one of those tip cleaners such as the MCM 21-4355. I don't know how I got along without one of those. It helps remove oxidation and gives me a nice, clean starting point.
 
Do you stab the iron into that brass stuff while it's still hot?

Heat the iron, tin it (apply a drop of solder), stab it into the brass stuff to clean the tip and smear the solder. Then it's ready to work.

When working joints, you don't heat the solder, you heat the solder joint (wires and/or metal tabs). That's part of why you want to tin the soldering iron: It helps conduct heat from the tip to the wires and/or tabs. The hot wires/tabs will melt the solder for you.
 
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Do you stab the iron into that brass stuff while it's still hot? I guess that would be the best way to clean it, but I haven't seen it mentioned.
Yes. It works like the sponge without the temp drop of the wet sponge.
It can be a personal preference see which cleaning method you prefer.

REMEMBER ALWAYS.

MugChicken.jpg

If you need one of these mugs (The Wife got one for me) click>Invalid Link Removed
 
Used to be we didn't have fancy temp. controlled solder stations.
When my day job was as a bench tech and I had a soldering iron going pretty much all day, I built a temp control switch.
The iron was on full or half. When I didn't need it I switched to half, when I did need it, it heated up from half to full pretty quickly.

I built this into a box. The iron plugged into the box, the box plugged into the wall outlet.
Inside the box was a diode (sized to handle the load) in series with one side of the A.C. line.
The switch simply bypassed the diode for full temp operation.
With the diode in circuit, you only got half wave A.C. going to the iron.
I didn't go through tips nearly as fast.
I remember guys doing this; the diode actually drops the power to about 25%. Used to be we would coat the tip with silver solder (high silver content), and this would help prevent the tip from eroding as fast from the solder and flux compared with a pure copper bit.
 
I would have suggested buying a $10 20w from WalMart to practice wax on/wax off with before you stepped up to the name brand stuff, but hey, you’re here to melt faces and take names...or was it take advice and melt solder??? Too late now. Gonna have to cook that turkey and serve it with the trimmings. Just go easy on the cranberry sauce. A dab’ll do ya.
 
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Used to be we didn't have fancy temp. controlled solder stations.
When my day job was as a bench tech and I had a soldering iron going pretty much all day, I built a temp control switch.
The iron was on full or half. When I didn't need it I switched to half, when I did need it, it heated up from half to full pretty quickly.

I built this into a box. The iron plugged into the box, the box plugged into the wall outlet.
Inside the box was a diode (sized to handle the load) in series with one side of the A.C. line.
The switch simply bypassed the diode for full temp operation.
With the diode in circuit, you only got half wave A.C. going to the iron.
I didn't go through tips nearly as fast.


Craig Anderton had that in one of his books. I never got around to making one. Now I have an adjustable iron and turn it down if it’s going to sit for more than a couple of minutes.
 
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I have this Weller model, more than adequate for guitar soldering jobs. The temp control isn’t calibrated to farenheit or Celsius , but I found the “4” setting hot enough for most jobs. The only thing I’ve had trouble with is soldering to pot backs, have to use a “chisel” shaped tip and makes sure it’s clean and well tinned. I don’t do it enough to be expert, but I’ve gotten competent anyway.

Weller WLC100 Economy Soldering Station | TubeDepot.com

Crank up the heat and you'll probably have less of an issue - the pot is basically acting as a heat sink, spreading out the heat and dissipating it into the air.

Chisel tip is a good idea, and another trick is to melt a big glob of solder on the tip and then "spoon" it onto the surface when you go to heat it. Helps increase the surface area a bit more, the solder is already melted (one less variable), and you'll know exactly when the surface is hot enough because it will flatten and spread. Reduces the chance of overheating the components pretty significantly.
 
I enjoy the modern straight from IKEAness of the Hakko FX888D.

I have the same Hakko.
My grandfather's cousin worked at Lockheed in Mountain View.
He taught me to solder as a way to make me fix my toys.
I was kinda rough on stuff, he would tell me stories of fixing field radios while getting shot at while I was learning.
He had this prized set of Weller gear from probably the Space Race.

I guess back then soldering, fixing tube powered devices, and programming were all the same thing back then.
 
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I would have suggested buying a $10 20w from WalMart to practice wax on/wax off with before you stepped up to the name brand stuff, but hey, you’re here to melt faces and take names...or was it take advice and melt solder??? Too late now. Gonna have to cook that turkey and serve it with the trimmings. Just go easy on the cranberry sauce. A dab’ll do ya.

It's a good idea, but I like to train with the gear I'll fight with. ;)
 
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