I use one those “brass wool” tip cleaners by Hakko, works quite well, though I suspect I’m gradually wearing away the tip doing it. The wet sponge method does seem to get the grunge off.
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I enjoy the modern straight from IKEAness of the Hakko FX888D.I do have a fondness for that plastic jeweled pastel smoothie Star Trek design aesthetic.
Do you stab the iron into that brass stuff while it's still hot?
Yes. It works like the sponge without the temp drop of the wet sponge.Do you stab the iron into that brass stuff while it's still hot? I guess that would be the best way to clean it, but I haven't seen it mentioned.
Yeah! Doing it cold won't help much.Do you stab the iron into that brass stuff while it's still hot? I guess that would be the best way to clean it, but I haven't seen it mentioned.
Yeah! Don't replace the brass cleaner do-hickey with a plastic kitchen "scrunchie."You clean your tip, melted plastic is lame.
I tend to use sandpaper and retin.

I remember guys doing this; the diode actually drops the power to about 25%. Used to be we would coat the tip with silver solder (high silver content), and this would help prevent the tip from eroding as fast from the solder and flux compared with a pure copper bit.Used to be we didn't have fancy temp. controlled solder stations.
When my day job was as a bench tech and I had a soldering iron going pretty much all day, I built a temp control switch.
The iron was on full or half. When I didn't need it I switched to half, when I did need it, it heated up from half to full pretty quickly.
I built this into a box. The iron plugged into the box, the box plugged into the wall outlet.
Inside the box was a diode (sized to handle the load) in series with one side of the A.C. line.
The switch simply bypassed the diode for full temp operation.
With the diode in circuit, you only got half wave A.C. going to the iron.
I didn't go through tips nearly as fast.
Used to be we didn't have fancy temp. controlled solder stations.
When my day job was as a bench tech and I had a soldering iron going pretty much all day, I built a temp control switch.
The iron was on full or half. When I didn't need it I switched to half, when I did need it, it heated up from half to full pretty quickly.
I built this into a box. The iron plugged into the box, the box plugged into the wall outlet.
Inside the box was a diode (sized to handle the load) in series with one side of the A.C. line.
The switch simply bypassed the diode for full temp operation.
With the diode in circuit, you only got half wave A.C. going to the iron.
I didn't go through tips nearly as fast.
My iron idles on the bench sometimes for a full day at 700F, and the tip doesn't oxidize much. A quick wipe on the damp sponge and it's ready to go.Craig Anderton had that in one of his books. I never got around to making one. Now I have an adjustable iron and turn it down if it’s going to sit for more than a couple of minutes.
I have this Weller model, more than adequate for guitar soldering jobs. The temp control isn’t calibrated to farenheit or Celsius , but I found the “4” setting hot enough for most jobs. The only thing I’ve had trouble with is soldering to pot backs, have to use a “chisel” shaped tip and makes sure it’s clean and well tinned. I don’t do it enough to be expert, but I’ve gotten competent anyway.
Weller WLC100 Economy Soldering Station | TubeDepot.com
- the pot is basically acting as a heat sink, spreading out the heat and dissipating it into the air.

I enjoy the modern straight from IKEAness of the Hakko FX888D.
I would have suggested buying a $10 20w from WalMart to practice wax on/wax off with before you stepped up to the name brand stuff, but hey, you’re here to melt faces and take names...or was it take advice and melt solder??? Too late now. Gonna have to cook that turkey and serve it with the trimmings. Just go easy on the cranberry sauce. A dab’ll do ya.