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Quilter Bass Block

#601
Alright, I'm halfway through the 31 pages of this thread and I have a question. I have been using the GK MB series (200, 500 & 800, no fusions) for years, but I have become unhappy with the baked-in sound of the GKs. So much so, that I started a few months ago leaving the MB controls flat and using a BDDI as the sole tone shaper. The BDDI has helped me get some of the punch back into my tone that the GK just don't seems to have no matter how much I futz with the amp's EQ.

After reading about the "stiffness" of the BB800, I'm wondering if I would need the BDDI in the chain to get the punch. Also I just played the first gig with my new Barefaced One10 last night, and I would love anyone's impression on how the two match up (BTW - I have an order in for a second One10 already!)

The form factor, eq setup and the words of Pat Quilter have me believing this may be my magic bullet.
 
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#602
BigEarl said:
Alright, I'm halfway through the 31 pages of this thread and I have a question. I have been using the GK MB series (200, 500 & 800, no fusions) for years, but I have become unhappy with the baked-in sound of the GKs. So much so, that I started a few months ago leaving the MB controls flat and using a BDDI as the sole tone shaper. The BDDI has helped me get some of the punch back into my tone that the GK just don't seems to have no matter how much I futz with the amp's EQ.

After reading about the "stiffness" of the BB800, I'm wondering if I would need the BDDI in the chain to get the punch. Also I just played the first gig with my new Barefaced One10 last night, and I would love anyone's impression on how the two match up (BTW - I have an order in for a second One10 already!)

The form factor, eq setup and the words of Pat Quilter have me believing this may be my magic bullet.
Click to expand...

I have a BB800 and two Barefaced One10's. I love the sound. However I do do some reservations about the One10's. My first gig with the BassBlock was just with a single One10 and I was blown away with the tone and volume. The room was a fairly small pub with a wooden floor in the "stage "area.

My next 2 gigs were in slightly bigger venues with a carpeted floor and my second One10 had arrived. I set up the cabs in the regular way with the port at the bottom but found that the cabs seemed to run out of headroom. I tried 2 gigs with the One10's before reverting to my TKS 1126 cab for the next gigs. After reading the Barefaced threads on various forums I am now keen to try the One10's with the port at the side when confronted with a carpeted floor.

I find the BB800 has plenty of punch btw.
 
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#604
hennessybass said:
thanks @Stu_Bass . I'm gonna read that about 10 times.

Last question on the XLR out... and let's just assume that I'm a crazy person, and I have a neuroses that involves running my bass directly into the front end of my amp, with nothing else in the signal chain,, and I actually wanted a post signal to the FOH.

Would it make sense (or at least work) to use a short, balanced female XLR to TRS cable to run from the line out of the BB800 into the input of my Countryman DI? Seems like it would solve any grounding / long cable run issues, as well as knocking the signal down to a nice mic level that would jive well with soundboards.

I guess I could also use the speaker level function on my Countryman to accomplish the same thing.

I know I'm kind of obsessing here, but hey, what is TB for. And as Confucius says... "The man who asks a question is a fool for a minute, the man who does not ask is a fool for life."

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...
You should not have any problem using the XLR line out on the amp for any situation with a few caveats:
The output is LINE level and FOH should be made aware of this
Mackie mixers and the like prefer to see MIC levels on their XLR inputs. Even by reducing the input gain with the trim control you MAY still overload the input. Two workarounds are to carry an XLR (F) to 1/4" (M) TRS adapter cable and go into the line input on the mixer or carry a line to mic level XLR adapter (or inline XLR volume control or variable pad) when using the mic level XLR input on such mixers.
The shield on the output of the BB800 IS connected to chassis. (I have metered this) so you might also want to carry an XLR ground lift too.
All these adapters are available through Shure, Sescom and other audio manufacturers (I have listed them in a previous post within this thread.
The other thing to consider is the fact that most DI's are designed to accept either an instrument or speaker level signal. Since the line level output of the BB800 lies between these two plugging into the speaker in will provide far too little level while plugging into the instrument level may overload the transformer (known as saturation) or isolation circuit in the DI and cause distortion. Many manufacturers make DI's these days designed to accept line level signals. They are either labeled as line level DI's or are called A/V (or computer) DI's since the output of most computer or other A/V sources are line level. Consider using one of these if running the amps XLR out to a DI.
Good examples are the Radial Pro DI, Pro AV2, StageBug SB2, Trim 2 (provides a level control to FOH), JPZ, PRO 48, SB 1. Some are passive , some are battery/phantom and some are phantom only. (Also note an XLR ground lift blocks phantom power, although you shouldn’t need one with a DI)
And, yes, you would need an XLR to 1/4" adapter between the amp and DI
 
Last edited:
#605
Stu_Bass said:
You should not have any problem using the XLR line out on the amp for any situation with a few caveats:
The output is LINE level and FOH should be made aware of this
Mackie mixers and the like prefer to see MIC levels on their XLR inputs. Even by reducing the input gain with the trim control you MAY still overload the input. Two workarounds are to carry an XLR (F) to 1/4" (M) TRS adapter cable and go into the line input on the mixer or carry a line to mic level XLR adapter (or inline XLR volume control or variable pad) when using the mic level XLR input on such mixers.
The shield on the output of the BB800 IS connected to chassis. (I have metered this) so you might also want to carry an XLR ground lift too.
All these adapters are available through Shure, Sescom and other audio manufacturers (I have listed them in a previous post within this thread.
The other thing to consider is the fact that most DI's are designed to accept either an instrument or speaker level signal. Since the line level output of the BB800 lies between these two plugging into the speaker in will provide far too little level while plugging into the instrument level may overload the transformer (known as saturation) or isolation circuit in the DI and cause distortion. Many manufacturers make DI's these days designed to accept line level signals. They are either labeled as line level DI's or are called A/V (or computer) DI's since the output of most computer or other A/V sources are line level. Consider using one of these if running the amps XLR out to a DI.
Good examples are the Radial Pro DI, Pro AV2, StageBug SB2, Trim 2 (provides a level control to FOH), JPZ, PRO 48, SB 1. Some are passive , some are battery/phantom and some are phantom only. (Also note an XLR ground lift blocks phantom power, although you shouldn’t need one with a DI)
And, yes, you would need an XLR to 1/4" adapter between the amp and DI
Click to expand...

Thanks.
I have run into issues with clipping XLR inputs on mixers - usually having to keep the trim all the way down.

I came across some line to mic level XLR adaptors the other day, and actually thought it might work well for this application.

Seems like with two little adapters, and not a whole lot of cost, you could really eliminate any issues you might ever run into. Or, in my case, I could just use the very nice DI box I already have in front of the amp, and not have to worry about a thing.

Thanks for all the great information, guys, and thanks for helping me brainstorm thru all this stuff.
 
#606
I recently discovered the BB800's maximum output tipping point and the results of reaching it.

Although its wattage seems endless, the amp nicely disguises and defers the inevitable by way of the limiter circuitry in the preamp.

As one approaches the end of the road, the red pilot light on the front will begin to wink (pulse) to low notes much like an old-school boom box running low on batteries does. Additionally during approach the amp will begin to get sloppy and increase harmonic distortion. At this point, one will likely lower the volume knob on their own as the sound is rather displeasing, but should this not occur I believe thermal limiting would soon begin.

Depending on the input signal level and EQ, I have observed that one can hit the end of the road with the Master knob below the 800-watt mark and/or if one's speakers are rated much higher than the Bass Block's 800-watts. I strongly recommend one use their ears (and wink light) and not rely on Master knob position.

Cheers!
 
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#608
TrevorOfDoom said:
Ordered a BB800 yesterday, shoukd have it Thursday.
Ironically, my other amp is an Orange TerrorBass 500.
Apparently i have a thing for unusable DI's ;)
Click to expand...
I had a TB1000. I really liked it but seamed like it is always has a bit of dirt. The BB800 is clean and punches out better than the TB1000 from what I remember. I like the quilter over the orange.
 
#609
Agosix said:
I had a TB1000. I really liked it but seamed like it is always has a bit of dirt. The BB800 is clean and punches out better than the TB1000 from what I remember. I like the quilter over the orange.
Click to expand...
I have the Orange set frequency flat (bass and treble at off, mids cranked) and like it, but it is always a bit dirty and not all my gigs need it.
Also, the form factor of the Orange is a negative, as i don't feel safe loading it into a van or trailer.
Hopefully I can get the Quilter into my pedalboard case.

And i'm planning on keeping the Orange.
 
#610
TrevorOfDoom said:
I have the Orange set frequency flat (bass and treble at off, mids cranked) and like it, but it is always a bit dirty and not all my gigs need it.
Also, the form factor of the Orange is a negative, as i don't feel safe loading it into a van or trailer.
Hopefully I can get the Quilter into my pedalboard case.

And i'm planning on keeping the Orange.
Click to expand...
I always kept the bass around 3 o'clock or more, mid at noon about, treble 1 variable. Quilter is solid and compact. The eq is simple. You made a good choice and hope you like it.
 
#612
CharlieC said:
I recently discovered the BB800's maximum output tipping point and the results of reaching it.

Although its wattage seems endless, the amp nicely disguises and defers the inevitable by way of the limiter circuitry in the preamp.

As one approaches the end of the road, the red pilot light on the front will begin to wink (pulse) to low notes much like an old-school boom box running low on batteries does. Additionally during approach the amp will begin to get sloppy and increase harmonic distortion. At this point, one will likely lower the volume knob on their own as the sound is rather displeasing, but should this not occur I believe thermal limiting would soon begin.

Depending on the input signal level and EQ, I have observed that one can hit the end of the road with the Master knob below the 800-watt mark and/or if one's speakers are rated much higher than the Bass Block's 800-watts. I strongly recommend one use their ears (and wink light) and not rely on Master knob position.

Cheers!
Click to expand...
Charlie, which speaker/s were you using when this occurred, and was it because you were curious and wanted to test the limit, or were you trying to achieve a higher volume level?
 
#613
triode6L6a said:
Charlie, which speaker/s were you using when this occurred, and was it because you were curious and wanted to test the limit, or were you trying to achieve a higher volume level?
Click to expand...

I typically have 2000 watts behind my two Fearless F112's with a Crown XLS 2002 power amp.

In trying to replace the Crown in my rig, the Quilter had a lot of ground to cover, and although it worked-out very well, shortcomings were clearly exposed.
 
#615
Has anyone ran the BB800 into (3) 8ohm cabs (2.67 ohm load)? I'm planning on getting a couple of Aguilar SL112's. The website says that it'll run down to 2 ohms, but may clip at high master volumes. My plan was too maybe pick up a third cab for when I need to push more air.
 
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#617
Kirk Bryant said:
Damn CharlieC you must have been cranking! I thought those looked like Fearfulls in the pic. I haven't got my PV MMega past 12 o'clock and wasnt audibly limiting to me but was painfully loud. Where was the power/volume level at?
Click to expand...

Indeed, Kirk!

Mind you, my Fearless F112s can easily swallow 900 watts each and then give you the "that's all you got?" look. In addition, there is no safe space with them to hide signal or other flaws, they expose everything like a microscope.

With this said, all good things (like seemingly bottomless wattage) must come to an end, but in the Quilter's case it supplies the best sounding 800 watts thanks to that wonderful dual-stage limiter in the preamp section and does so in a way that one has a nice long ride as well. It may not be the best amp in the world, but what a sweet ride it is!

Cheers!
 
#618
PaperbackRyder said:
I borrowered a BassBlock800 from a friend, took it home and A/B'd with my TH350. Both the PBass w flats and the JBass with rounds sounded, well, huger. Kept the knobs straight up. Fiddled with them to understand thier impact, but straight up was just awesome.
Not so much with the upright, even with the HPF. Can't justify two heads right now, so I returned it.
But it haunts me...
Click to expand...

What about the BB800 did you not like on Upright as compared to the th350?
 

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