A combination of flat and vertical. Kind of just depends what part of the body I'm spraying. Flat does seem easier to get an even coat but I'm also worried about spitting with the angle of the can I have to use for flat.
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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
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A combination of flat and vertical. Kind of just depends what part of the body I'm spraying. Flat does seem easier to get an even coat but I'm also worried about spitting with the angle of the can I have to use for flat.
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I have never used the Stewmac nitro. I find that with any spray can, you have to find the right balance between the force of the aerosol forcing the paint to the surface and gravity allowing the paint to just fall to the surface. Unfortunately, every spray paint is different which is why you need to start with very light coats and work up to heavier coats.
I have never tried this trick, but they say that if you warm the spray can in warm water for a few minutes before you start, it will help with spitting. Of course in Tuscon, it probably never gets cold enough to worry about it. There is lots of good info on reranch.com, especially for nitro. Spend some time reading! There are also a ton of youtube videos, ferreting out the good from the bad is another story.
There are very few problems you are going to create for yourself that can't be fixed with sandpaper. The next thing I would do if I were you is to sand that thing smooth with about 600 grit. You shouldn't need to go higher than that during this part of the process, the next coats of paint should cover the scratches. Keep us updated!!!
Well it was definitely my spray technique. I sanded and re-sprayed after watching a youtube video and the difference is very noticeable. The back looks awesome. The front has some uneven spots but only because the can was getting empty and started giving out towards the end. I'll re-sand the front while I wait for more paint.
I do warm the paint before I use it. It's what stewmac website recommends.
I do warm the paint before I use it. It's what stewmac website recommends.
Hi all. So i have a Squier VM frettless jazz bass i want to paint. Im looking to do it myself on the cheap. Im pretty handy and have tools so i dont expect too much difficulty. Im looking here for advice, tips, important steps that might not be obvious.
My plan is to remove the hardware and neck. Scuff sand with 600 grit over the old finish, then clean, prime, sand, clean, paint, sand, clean, paint, clean, clear coat. Plan to mask at the nut and around edges of headstock and do a matching headstock.
Suggested brands of rattle cans?
My plan is to remove the hardware and neck. Scuff sand with 600 grit over the old finish, then clean, prime, sand, clean, paint, sand, clean, paint, clean, clear coat. Plan to mask at the nut and around edges of headstock and do a matching headstock.
Suggested brands of rattle cans?
Yes take it all the way down to the body, you want everything off it before you start. I've done a couple and I've used the rattlecan lacquer from Guitar Reranch. I like their primer alot as well. I normaly use Minwax Clear Gloss Lacquer. I know others here have used different brands as well.
On mine that’s posted above I didn’t take all the way back to bare wood. I scuffed up the poly with 400 grit and then put my color coats on. I used no primer either, as a number of places I read and videos I watched said that poly acts as a sealer and primer.
I’m on the clear coats now and everything is looking good. I used stewmac lacquer and clear.
Don’t recall if I’ve posted this (here)... One of my first TB purchases was a Squier Mike Dirnt... body was damaged (was disclosed in sale)... repaired & refinished with Guitar ReRanch (Fender Sonic Blue)... added Fender ‘62 pu, custom 3-ply pg, Fender vintage bridge & cover, new wiring, pots & knobs, paisley CS neckplate & a Mike Dirnt Roadworn neck w/Hipshot Lollypop tuners... currently sporting GHS Pressurewounds!
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i recently ordered a bass kit. I plan to paint it with a rustoleum spray on lacquer finish. i want the body to be the colored lacquer with a matching headstock, and do a spray on clear lacquer on the neck and colored headstock, which will seal in the waterslide i'm using.
is this product water based? I'm not seeing the information anywhere....
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if all that sounds reasonable, what would be the recommended wood sealer to use before the lacquer application on the body?
any and all help is greatly appreciated. this guitar finishing business is complex.
is this product water based? I'm not seeing the information anywhere....
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if all that sounds reasonable, what would be the recommended wood sealer to use before the lacquer application on the body?
any and all help is greatly appreciated. this guitar finishing business is complex.
I saw it a Ace Hardware and the colors looked nice, and I was curious if anyone knew anything about it.
I know it does not answer your question, but if you want to do lacquer, imho, the best rattlecan lacquer is from GuitarReranch. They have most of the original Fender colors, Gibson Colors and a couple of their own. I've done two using their primer (highly recommended) and paint and am about to do a third.
I got some sand through as I was wet sanding with 1000 grit. What's the best way to fix this? Since it's nitro can I spray black right over it then clear over that once it's dried?
I've fortunately never had to deal with that. That is exactly what I would try.
I‘m rattle-refinishing my basses a lot! Did like at least 5 or 6 basses in the past. I just (read: about an hour ago) finished my latest refinish, an 80s Yamaha BB VI, which was black with rosewood fingerboard (I hate this combination!). I sanded the body and sprayed it with Inca Silver nitro, this is how it looks so far:
Edge sanding can be so frustrating. Just figure on spraying the black nitro and give yourself a few extra coats. Proceed with the clear coat. Sometimes if my base coat looks more textured than I like, I'll give it a little light sanding before the clear coat. The good thing about quality nitro products is the solvent and flattening of the finish once you figure out how much to spray in each coat. I miss those days, but won't do it again.
Saga MB-10 , using ReRanch Copper Tone Metallic (nitro for primer, paint and finish)...
... Hipshot Ultralight tuners and Kick-Ass bridge, for upgrades. Apocalyptic skin from Skin-Your-Skunk.
"NBD"... 5 string Saga MB-10
... Hipshot Ultralight tuners and Kick-Ass bridge, for upgrades. Apocalyptic skin from Skin-Your-Skunk.
"NBD"... 5 string Saga MB-10
