Great Post. Thank you. Slight correction with all due respect. You lower the Q hence the efficiency. Not the other way around.
p.s. Love my Markbass 15!
Thank you, Chucky, for catching my slip...
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Great Post. Thank you. Slight correction with all due respect. You lower the Q hence the efficiency. Not the other way around.
p.s. Love my Markbass 15!
View attachment 2797209
Our band played its largest stage last Friday night (it was epic, will do a gig report once the official pictures come out). My amp, which is usually plenty for my stage volume in other venues, was really just enough this time around - to achieve a similar perceived loudness, I really had to dime the master volume whereas normally I can leave it at 65% or 70%.
Now, this may very well be the largest venue we'll ever play, so I'm absolutely not in a "Oh my God, I need to buy the loudest rig I can find ASAP!" panic, but it got me thinking about a few things.
Current rig / band situation:
As mentioned, this rig sounds very good to me, but its power to weight ratio isn't very flattering by today's standards. I'm thinking of *maybe* going with a "head + cab" config, but I'm in absolutely no rush. I'm fully aware this would be much more of a "want" than a "need".
- PJB suitcase w/ extra 4B cab. 8 x 5'' drivers (ceramic magnets). Amp weight is about 60 lbs, cab is about 40 lbs. Stacked vertically, it stands roughly around waist height.
- Sounds fantastic and very transparent (which I like);
- Max output power: This is a little confusing. The nameplate on the back of the combo says 300W @4 ohms, the owner's manual says 350W RMS @4 ohms, the old PJB printed catalog says 375W @4 ohms, so who knows what the exact figure is?
- Bass is a passive LB-100 (stock alnico V pup), EQ is set as close to flat as possible.
- Band is a 8-piece funk band (drums, bass, keys, guitar, sax, trumpet, trombone, vocals). Drummer hits hard, stage volume is fairly loud.
Some things I have been wondering about:
- How big of an issue is floor coupling? Would an isolation pad make a noticeable difference?
- Would raising the whole thing closer to ear level help noticeably?
- What about stands that tilt cabs back? Anyone use them? I could try setting up my rig side-by-side, tilted back.
- I've taken a look at Greenboy's F112 cab that can be set up as a wedge, and it makes sense to me. For those who use wedge cabs, (and I know this might be a dumb question, but) how do you set up your amp neatly (specifically class D heads) ?
Feel free to drop some knowledge / suggestions on me.
After using Ampeg SVT & 8 x 10 for years (this is when I had roadies to move gear), I have now been using a Markbass CMD102P combo with 2 x 10s. This is usually adequate for most gigs, putting out 300 watts as is, or 500 watts into 4 ohms if using a 4x10 extension cab. The sound on these is great and the whole combo only weighs 20 kg (44lbs)View attachment 2797209
Our band played its largest stage last Friday night (it was epic, will do a gig report once the official pictures come out). My amp, which is usually plenty for my stage volume in other venues, was really just enough this time around - to achieve a similar perceived loudness, I really had to dime the master volume whereas normally I can leave it at 65% or 70%.
Now, this may very well be the largest venue we'll ever play, so I'm absolutely not in a "Oh my God, I need to buy the loudest rig I can find ASAP!" panic, but it got me thinking about a few things.
Current rig / band situation:
As mentioned, this rig sounds very good to me, but its power to weight ratio isn't very flattering by today's standards. I'm thinking of *maybe* going with a "head + cab" config, but I'm in absolutely no rush. I'm fully aware this would be much more of a "want" than a "need".
- PJB suitcase w/ extra 4B cab. 8 x 5'' drivers (ceramic magnets). Amp weight is about 60 lbs, cab is about 40 lbs. Stacked vertically, it stands roughly around waist height.
- Sounds fantastic and very transparent (which I like);
- Max output power: This is a little confusing. The nameplate on the back of the combo says 300W @4 ohms, the owner's manual says 350W RMS @4 ohms, the old PJB printed catalog says 375W @4 ohms, so who knows what the exact figure is?
- Bass is a passive LB-100 (stock alnico V pup), EQ is set as close to flat as possible.
- Band is a 8-piece funk band (drums, bass, keys, guitar, sax, trumpet, trombone, vocals). Drummer hits hard, stage volume is fairly loud.
Some things I have been wondering about:
- How big of an issue is floor coupling? Would an isolation pad make a noticeable difference?
- Would raising the whole thing closer to ear level help noticeably?
- What about stands that tilt cabs back? Anyone use them? I could try setting up my rig side-by-side, tilted back.
- I've taken a look at Greenboy's F112 cab that can be set up as a wedge, and it makes sense to me. For those who use wedge cabs, (and I know this might be a dumb question, but) how do you set up your amp neatly (specifically class D heads) ?
Feel free to drop some knowledge / suggestions on me.
There are many options, and some good ones have been mentioned already. I'll share mine: Mesa Subway D800 head (800 watts into 4 ohms) and a Barefaced Super Twin (40 pounds!!!). It's a great sounding rig and outrageously loud. I've played good sized venues with a loud rock band have never come close to turning it up all the way.
View attachment 2797929
I'm still toying with the idea of when my amp dies just going with a powered speaker. The revised Mackie Thump look AMAZING - $350, 40 lbs, 15" speaker, 1300W (1000w main driver, 300w HF driver) and a nice low frequency range (32Hz-23kHz). Also if you don't like the sound of it on the floor you can put it on a stand and have it blasting you in the face. Much simpler and lighter to have an all-in-one amp.
I have a TecAmp Puma 900 and recently had Paul Tollini in Pa. build me a Fearless 212. I loved the head to begin with, it's the only amp I have used that sounds great eq. set flat, then if you do slight tweaking it gets even better but you can show up at a gig leave it set flat and sound great, very friendly from venue to venue, no need to spend time trying to dial in your tone it's already there. I have had other amps that sounded great ( SVT'S, Trace Elliot, GK, SWR ) all great heavy amps, the Trace usually didn't need tweaking from my starting point from room to room, but took some time to get that starting point ( marked eq. with whiteout) all others usually needed adjustment room to room, so I love my Puma 900. Now on to the Fearless 212, I have had SVT 810, Ampeg PR 410 HLF great cab, discontinued ( 125 lbs. ), SWR Goliath, and GK. The Fearless cab by far exceeds all those cabs, and is way lighter, 63 lbs with built-in wheels, I don't mind 63 lbs after 125 lbs. . If you need lighter but still need 212s go with two F112s, be around 300.00 more than F212. But you would be doubling drivers and horns, the clarity out of these cabs is ridiculous, punch out the the whazoo, and the fattest clean bottom end I have ever heard, this cab kicks the crap out of any of the 810 set ups I had in volume and bottom, but it's clear tight bottom, not wolfy or farting out, just pure bottom end tone that thumps your chest. I have an Mtd 6 string, one day I turned the Puma up to the 3:00 position master and gain, I have never heard an amp that loud and articulate, even the low B was tight and clear, unbelievably the cabinet was saying give me more, but for the good of the hood and so not to have change my underwear, I cut it back to the normal 9:00 on both, I practice between 9 to 10 and that is plenty volume for alot of gigs. I have only play one with it so far and and was more then pleased, a player friend of mine said projection out front with no FOH was full, rich and very clear, it will make you a better player cuz you will hear your mistakes. Lol. So my take is save your money and buy the last cabinet or cabinets you will ever buy with the Fearless F212 or 2- F112s, not saying they are the best, but they are the best I have ever heard, you would not regret having Fearless built and shipping it to Canada or driving to the US to pick up, I believe there are 5 different builders for Green boy they are listed on GB's site. Oh yeah, cab sounds great at very low volume too. Happy giggin
As a fellow Montrealer I know that a lot of the brands being recommended here are not going to be easy for you to get your hands on (certainly if you want to try before you buy). I can't go into much depth with any kind of technical talk, so I'll just say the following:
I don't think I've ever needed more than a 4x10 cabinet on stage. That includes rooms like Metropolis and the Spectrum and large outdoor stages at the Montreal Jazz Festival. Depending on the stage and the band's on-stage volume I may ask for a bit of bass in my monitor - or I may not. Given the options in Montreal (based on the last time I checked) I would consider a combination of two Bergantino cabinets (for example, a 210 and a 112) from Moog Audio. They're not cheap but I doubt that any of your higher end options will be. Amp-wise, it's easier to score deals on second-hand class D heads so you can basically go where your curiosity leads you. My Aguilar TH500 gets me through most of my gigs but when I'm in doubt regarding power I bring a Puma 900. If you want to try playing through a Berg/Aguilar or Berg/Tecamp combo at any point you're welcome to swing by.
Over the years I've been in pretty much the same boat. After getting a reputation of being too loud blasting at my ankles, I had a custom F112 built with a 2 space rack even shortened for my D class head. I can now hear myself better than ever without bothering bandmates. I often times have it in front facing me just like a monitor and the band leader/soundman just loves that my stage volume doesn't interfere with the PA.
Great question so I'll throw a few opinions at it . This is in regard to playing at larger venues which I have been doing for sometime now
When we say it's not loud enough we have to think about; for whom?
1. The audience - not my problem - that is the FOH System. The days of me bringing double Ampeg 8x10 are all over. Besides that never sounded good anyway to the people in the back of the room, and the sound engineer would be totally asking me to turn down because I'm drowning everyone out.
2. My band mates on stage - what are they using for monitors, are they really asking me to be louder, do I have to crank up so loud that I blast all the microphones on stage? Can I put cabinets on both sides of the stage and turn down to get better coverage? Can they fix their own monitors?
3. Me - ah this is the important part.
Am I not loud enough or is everybody else too loud? If everybody else is too loud I can ask them to turn down LOL LOL - that never happens. The only way I can make them quieter is to use in ear monitors, IEMs. The IEMs Block all the sounds on stage pretty well and now I start adding back in what I want. First a mix from the soundboard which lets me hear everybody nicely. Then I add in my own bass exactly at the volume I want to hear. Guess what, I don't need an amplifier. Some rack mount amps work great as a preamp also, such as my Ampeg. Just leave the speaker cab at home when you don't need it.
My current rig for biggest shows is a small rack that contains a preamp, a tuner, wireless, wireless ears, and a half rack 4 channel mixer. That's it- no power amps - no speaker cabinets!
I hear everything perfectly, at a low volume, the sound guy loves me, the FOH sound is clean and crisp because there is no funky phase difference between my amp and the house speakers, and everybody in the band enjoys having a lower stage volume, with just the right amount of bass they want to hear. The whole rig weighs about 20 pounds.
Like everybody else I tried all the combinations of multiple speakers, 2000 W amplifiers, custom this and that, blah blah blah.
When I play a smaller club I actually do bring a 2 x 10 and 500 W amplifier along with my rack. But the only reason for this is to make up for a crappy sound system that cannot handle the bass.
A good set of in-ear monitors and receiver will cost you $1000. Well worth it if you aren't paying for and schlepping around a big amplifier rig.
But -- if you are so old school that you just need that amp on stage, there are some other considerations. I guess I could get a fold up cardboard box that looks like an AMPEG 8 x 10 but...
1. What is loudness? it is SPL or sound pressure level. SPL is generated by the speaker cone moving as a piston that generates air pressure. The SPL is a combination of the area of a speaker and the distance the speaker moves in and out. In simplest terms a speaker is an air piston. Higher wattage can make a speaker move in and out a further distance, up to a limit, which generates more SPL. As a speaker moves in and out to it's limits it starts getting distorted. So to increase SPL you need more area, a larger speaker. A 10 inch speaker has about 75 in.² of area, A 12 inch speaker has about 108 in.².
Remember pie R squared. So going up or down 2 inches in speaker size makes a huge difference to the piston.
On the other hand because the power ratio to SPL is logarithmic, to double The SPL you need 10 times the power!
With an ideal speaker system, a 1000 W amplifier is really only eight times as loud as a 1 W system! This is why adding more speakers, which gives you more area, increases loudness much faster.
The tiny 6 inch or 8 inch speakers generate decent sound because they have a long throw, or move in and out quite a distance without distorting. However the cabinet has to be almost perfectly tuned to take advantage of that, which is why 6 inch speaker cabinets can be very expensive. Plus they get heavy quickly because you need 4 speakers to get the same area as one 12 inch speaker, and each of those 4 speakers has a magnet in a frame and other heavy non sound producing parts.
On the Fearless 112s- they are great - I have a 112 and a 212. Greenboy Audio does actually license the design for local builders to produce. If you go to the Greenboy website, you can get names of builders who are certified to make these for you. You used to be able to buy the plans also. I am not sure if you still can but if you are handy they are well worth it. The Fearless designs use a speaker (Faital ?) that allows a lot of in and out motion, and a tuned enclosure that prevents the speaker from unloading at very low frequencies. The B sounds great. Typically they are ported in the front to get the sound coming from the rear of the speaker also which increases the efficiency, meaning, you need fewer watts to get higher SPL.
Well - as a engineer and bass player for many years I think I have made all the mistakes and bought all the gear based on what other people say, only to be disappointed. If I had any amp up to 10, and still cant hear it, the stage volume must be stupid loud - not good for anyone who cares about their hearing.
I think the key is to think about your particular situation and whether you really want more volume or do you just want to hear better?
In my case for a larger venues, it works wonderful to have no power amplifier.
And my back thanks me every gig!
Good luck !
dB
but also, good lord those drivers are tiny for bass. I'd didn't realize how small they were before I commented..
I would definitely take a good look at some 10 inch or 12 inch cabs. you'll be floored with the difference.
My rig is a TC electronic RH450 and a TC 212 cabinet. I've never ever had a problem with the quality of tone or volume.
IMO: you definitely need at least 1(one) 4x10 cab (get a furniture dolly to aid in your schlep) for the larger gigs. Rule of sound #1: The more people in the venue, the more that the BASS GETS ABSORBED. I would leave 1 of the cabinets with full floor/stage contact to increase fullness (recommended by Mesa amps) and put the other on a tilt stand to aid projection.View attachment 2797209
Our band played its largest stage last Friday night (it was epic, will do a gig report once the official pictures come out). My amp, which is usually plenty for my stage volume in other venues, was really just enough this time around - to achieve a similar perceived loudness, I really had to dime the master volume whereas normally I can leave it at 65% or 70%.
Now, this may very well be the largest venue we'll ever play, so I'm absolutely not in a "Oh my God, I need to buy the loudest rig I can find ASAP!" panic, but it got me thinking about a few things.
Current rig / band situation:
As mentioned, this rig sounds very good to me, but its power to weight ratio isn't very flattering by today's standards. I'm thinking of *maybe* going with a "head + cab" config, but I'm in absolutely no rush. I'm fully aware this would be much more of a "want" than a "need".
- PJB suitcase w/ extra 4B cab. 8 x 5'' drivers (ceramic magnets). Amp weight is about 60 lbs, cab is about 40 lbs. Stacked vertically, it stands roughly around waist height.
- Sounds fantastic and very transparent (which I like);
- Max output power: This is a little confusing. The nameplate on the back of the combo says 300W @4 ohms, the owner's manual says 350W RMS @4 ohms, the old PJB printed catalog says 375W @4 ohms, so who knows what the exact figure is?
- Bass is a passive LB-100 (stock alnico V pup), EQ is set as close to flat as possible.
- Band is a 8-piece funk band (drums, bass, keys, guitar, sax, trumpet, trombone, vocals). Drummer hits hard, stage volume is fairly loud.
Some things I have been wondering about:
- How big of an issue is floor coupling? Would an isolation pad make a noticeable difference?
- Would raising the whole thing closer to ear level help noticeably?
- What about stands that tilt cabs back? Anyone use them? I could try setting up my rig side-by-side, tilted back.
- I've taken a look at Greenboy's F112 cab that can be set up as a wedge, and it makes sense to me. For those who use wedge cabs, (and I know this might be a dumb question, but) how do you set up your amp neatly (specifically class D heads) ?
Feel free to drop some knowledge / suggestions on me.