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(Re)Fitting badass V bridge

Hi guys,

Hope this isn't too much of a stupid question, but...

A while ago I asked a (then) local guitar/bass tech to fit a Badass V bridge to my MIM Fender Jazz 5. When I got it back, I noticed that the bridge was not mounted in line with the neck (the "E" string was right on the edge of the neck, and the "B" string was also accordingly out of position and spacing was wrong) I'm no longer local, not even in same country.

If I replace the original bridge, then one of the screw holes from the Badass fitting shows on the "E" string side.

My question is can I move the position of the BA bridge away from the neck a little, so that I can get a new area to fit the bridge but covering the old screw holes, providing I can get the bridge Intonation adjustment screws to cover the correct scale length?

Many thanks
 
Dowel in the old holes. Install the bridge. Done.

And yes you can move bridge position as long as the saddle stays within proper scale intonation range. I've done it.

Thanks! I thought it would be ok, but just wanted a bit of reassurance before I put even more holes in my bass (thought the Badass was supposed to be a direct fit, and didn't need to drill new holes, but doesn't appear to be so...).
 
Do not dowel the holes. Badass are drilled specifically for Fender. So a simple swap of bridges changes nothing.
Spacing is set at the saddle, some install them and do not file notches for the strings. Set the spacing and notch your saddles.

The string/ neck alignment: you need too loosen your neck bolts and align your neck. This is common to bolt on necks. It was likely off a bit and due to the new saddles not being properly notched, has become more noticeable.

Check this all before you go drilling!
 
Badass are drilled specifically for Fender. So a simple swap of bridges changes nothing.

This is what I thought, but the existing screw hole on the Bass side was used to mount the Badass, and on the treble side, the hole spacing is out (distance between centers of the screw holes on original and Badass bridges is to great to allow both original holes to be used), and the tech has repositioned a new screw hole just below and to the right of the old original, (as you look at the bass from above), so the whole bridge was mounted at an angle....
 
...the tech has repositioned a new screw hole just below and to the right of the old original, (as you look at the bass from above), so the whole bridge was mounted at an angle....

1. Your "tech" was a moron, and this is just one more reason to at least drop a dowel into the "extra" hole before proceeding.

2. Before you do any more drilling, get some green painter's masking tape, a center punch, and a long straightedge.

3. Adjust the neck joint, to be sure that your neck is properly centered. Don't just wiggle and re-tighten, check the alignment with the straightedge against the stock Fender bridge.

4. Put the tape over the bridge area to protect the finish, and use the straightedge to determine the proper alignment for the Badass.

If the bridge you have was intended to work on a Fender 5-string, then you should be able to find a position that works side-to-side.

Use the center punch to mark the new screw hole positions on the tape, and dowel any of the stock holes that don't match the new hole centers. Drill. Install. Enjoy.
 
Do not dowel the holes. Badass are drilled specifically for Fender. So a simple swap of bridges changes nothing.

My mistake! This is so true. Attached are a couple of photos from my CV60J (which is not a true Fender) with BAII installed. The outer holes did not align... Don't do what I did. :ninja:
 

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Do not dowel the holes. Badass are drilled specifically for Fender. So a simple swap of bridges changes nothing.

...and here's an example where I moved the bridge back about 3/16" by doing the same thing (dowels). It's not a BA V, but it's the same (bad) concept.

It worked for me (but it's horrible). You can also pay $50-75 to a luthier if you don't feel up to such monstrosity.
 

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PrietoBass said:
My mistake! This is so true. Attached are a couple of photos from my CV60J (which is not a true Fender) with BAII installed. The outer holes did not align... Don't do what I did. :ninja:

Well his first post did not explain the extent the tech hacked his bass. The two middle holes should have been used as reference by the tech and assess what the next step was.

What you experienced with your Squier is the same as the op Fender (Badass not being a drop in on import Fender). Luckily you have the smarts to have done it correctly. Nice job. The OP will follow the above detailed advice as well as yours and be fine. Too bad he found an idiot to mess it up on him.
 
Well his first post did not explain the extent the tech hacked his bass. The two middle holes should have been used as reference by the tech and assess what the next step was.

What you experienced with your Squier is the same as the op Fender (Badass not being a drop in on import Fender). Luckily you have the smarts to have done it correctly. Nice job. The OP will follow the above detailed advice as well as yours and be fine. Too bad he found an idiot to mess it up on him.

Sorry for the lack of info on the opening post am not anyway near the bass, so worked from memory. The problem with the screw holes can be seen in the photo I have managed to get (completely different mounting, but supposed to be the same!!!). So some dowellin will be necessary anyway, as none of the holes line up.
IMG_2102.gif
 
Hi all, well! Here, is the photo I promised. I know I should have given the bass a good clean, but I have done so now lol!

I am very pleased with the result :hyper: , and the bridge works well. I had to refile some of the saddles, but...

Anyway, thanks again for the help and advice.
Mybass1_zps1e2503c0.gif
 
JLS said:
Hate to tell you this, but that bridge is still crooked.

Not by my eye (it's a good one, too). The neck might need to pivot to the left, though. The G string is a little closer to the edge of the fingerboard than the B.

But, if the G isn't falling off the fretboard and all other aspects of a setup are good, I wouldn't worry about it past the point of noticing.
 
the string angles across the saddles looks funny, but the spacing seems to line right up between the pickup magnets and with the edges of the neck, so i'd say you're good.

as for the G, loosen the 4 neck screws a quarter-turn, pull the neck over until the strings are dead even from each edge, re-tighten; no big deal, you don't even want to de-tune for this tweak.