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Reasons not to mod a Squier Bronco
- Thread starter Pablo Fanque
- Start date
Hey, does anyone know which pickups will drop in with no routing? Might be handy info to have in this thread.
Really - what's under that pickguard? If people can drop in an SCPB pickup, there must be a decent-sized rout under there...
Ask and ye shall receive:
See my post #17 in this thread. I want to have the SCPB's polepieces directly under the strings. Angling the pickup at 25-degrees from normal does this. The stock rout is not wide enough to accommodate the angled pickup so I chiseled some clearance.
Yeah, like ponticat says, any SCPB pickup will require modification if you want the strings to line up with the polepieces, (I know, I know... It's all about the magnetic field, but still)...
Any 'strat' style single-coil or 'rail' will fit... We all know that the '70s Musicmasters used a guitar pickup and it works splendidly (six pole-pieces, four strings... Do they line up?? Unh uh...)
Aero also makes a drop-in replacement that costs as much as your Bronco, but that's no reason not to get one... I happen to think the Bronco is a sweet bass that begs for mods (again, see post #17 for sheer awesome-ness!!)... J.D.B. has that killer Batz... All totally giggable!
Here's my rather plain, unadorned '78 Musicmaster (the pre-historic Bronco as it were)... I'm almost embarrassed to post it after seeing these other cool basses. I've recently re-loaded the stock pickup and rewired it with CTS pots and an Orange-Drop... Since I've hurt my back and shoulder, it has become my 'go-to'...
FWIW, I have an SD Hot-Rails pickup that was in this bass for a few years... If anyone wants it, shoot me a PM...
-robert
Any 'strat' style single-coil or 'rail' will fit... We all know that the '70s Musicmasters used a guitar pickup and it works splendidly (six pole-pieces, four strings... Do they line up?? Unh uh...)
Aero also makes a drop-in replacement that costs as much as your Bronco, but that's no reason not to get one... I happen to think the Bronco is a sweet bass that begs for mods (again, see post #17 for sheer awesome-ness!!)... J.D.B. has that killer Batz... All totally giggable!
Here's my rather plain, unadorned '78 Musicmaster (the pre-historic Bronco as it were)... I'm almost embarrassed to post it after seeing these other cool basses. I've recently re-loaded the stock pickup and rewired it with CTS pots and an Orange-Drop... Since I've hurt my back and shoulder, it has become my 'go-to'...
FWIW, I have an SD Hot-Rails pickup that was in this bass for a few years... If anyone wants it, shoot me a PM...
-robert
The OEM pickup on a Bronco is a 6 pole "guitar" pickup. It's not necessary for the poles to align with the strings up for it to work properly since the mag is continuous where bottom of the strings intersect the mag field, as verified with EMG mag field tape.
Hey ponticat - VERY helpful posts!!
Is this the S-D pickup you used? It's available online at $52.95.....and might be worth a try even without angling it.
http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/electric/stratocaster/progressive/quarter_pound_f/
Is this the S-D pickup you used? It's available online at $52.95.....and might be worth a try even without angling it.
http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/electric/stratocaster/progressive/quarter_pound_f/
Nope.
Here's what I used:
http://www.seymourduncan.com/products/basslines/progressive-1/scpb3_quarterpo/
$57.95 at:
Link Removed
I'm very pleased to be of help.
I am very pleased with my Bronco, and I plan on modding it more. Mine was a good player, but it sounded awful. I changed all of the electronics to CTS parts, I added a 4 saddle bridge, hipshot full sized tuners and a GFS lipstick pickup.
Phred
Phred
Phred, that's a very nice, clean look. Is that the GFS Pro-Tube? And if so, which winding did you choose? - It comes in three: 8K, 6K and 4.9K.
Choices...choices....and my Bronco won't be here until next week.
Choices...choices....and my Bronco won't be here until next week.
I am very pleased with my Bronco, and I plan on modding it more. Mine was a good player, but it sounded awful. I changed all of the electronics to CTS parts, I added a 4 saddle bridge, hipshot full sized tuners and a GFS lipstick pickup.
Phred
Where did you get the 4 saddle bridge?
Does it improve the sound?
As I mentioned, a Strat style rails pickup will drop right in and improve the tone greatly. (for reference purposes)
Thanks Guys,
Yes, that is the 4.9K GFS pro-tube. I chose this as the Dano original lipstick pickups were 4.7K. The sound is a bit "plinky" which is what I was after. For a deeper sound, I would suggest any guitar rail pickup.
The 4 saddle musicmaster bridge is from Ebay: auction number 370311166640 or see the link below.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Genuine-Fender-...emQQptZGuitar_Accessories?hash=item563843fab0
Note that this bridge requires that you mod to a through the body configuration, which I did in one evening. As you can see from the photo below, the 4 saddle bridge really helps with intonation, and allows for more precise string height adjustment.
I can feel notes resonate through the body due to the string through mounting. I have always been a big fan of string through rather than top loader bridges, and this is no exception.
The bridge came with the ferrules, and a set of screws. You will need a forstner bit to make the holes for the ferrules. Measure the ferrules to see what size you need. I think mine were 1/2", but you should check before you drill. Here is what I did: first mount the bridge (I had to drill three new screw holes), then use a pencil or scratch awl to mark the circles where the string through holes will go. Remove the bridge, and using a drill press, drill out the 4 string through holes using a 1/8" bit from the front to the back of the body. Anytime you drill into the finish, you must bring the bit just to the surface, and drill in reverse, ever so lightly, until you are through the finish. This prevents the acrylic finish from shattering. Then drill slowly, since you will be cracking through the finish on the reverse. There will be some damage, but if you go slowly, then the larger forstner bit hole for the ferrules will make this a null point. I always mount a block of wood under the body when I clamp it down for drilling since it supports the process and helps minimize finish damage to the reverse side. Once you have your 1/8" holes, flip the body over, and reclamp. Measure the ferrules to see how deep you need to drill, then using the forstner bit, turn it by hand in reverse until you are through the finish. Then you can drill. Do not drill too deep. My ferrules pressed in by hand, or with a little nudge using a block of wood. Do not hammer right on them. Now remount your new bridge, add strings, then setup for string height and intonation.
Phred
Yes, that is the 4.9K GFS pro-tube. I chose this as the Dano original lipstick pickups were 4.7K. The sound is a bit "plinky" which is what I was after. For a deeper sound, I would suggest any guitar rail pickup.
The 4 saddle musicmaster bridge is from Ebay: auction number 370311166640 or see the link below.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Genuine-Fender-...emQQptZGuitar_Accessories?hash=item563843fab0
Note that this bridge requires that you mod to a through the body configuration, which I did in one evening. As you can see from the photo below, the 4 saddle bridge really helps with intonation, and allows for more precise string height adjustment.
I can feel notes resonate through the body due to the string through mounting. I have always been a big fan of string through rather than top loader bridges, and this is no exception.
The bridge came with the ferrules, and a set of screws. You will need a forstner bit to make the holes for the ferrules. Measure the ferrules to see what size you need. I think mine were 1/2", but you should check before you drill. Here is what I did: first mount the bridge (I had to drill three new screw holes), then use a pencil or scratch awl to mark the circles where the string through holes will go. Remove the bridge, and using a drill press, drill out the 4 string through holes using a 1/8" bit from the front to the back of the body. Anytime you drill into the finish, you must bring the bit just to the surface, and drill in reverse, ever so lightly, until you are through the finish. This prevents the acrylic finish from shattering. Then drill slowly, since you will be cracking through the finish on the reverse. There will be some damage, but if you go slowly, then the larger forstner bit hole for the ferrules will make this a null point. I always mount a block of wood under the body when I clamp it down for drilling since it supports the process and helps minimize finish damage to the reverse side. Once you have your 1/8" holes, flip the body over, and reclamp. Measure the ferrules to see how deep you need to drill, then using the forstner bit, turn it by hand in reverse until you are through the finish. Then you can drill. Do not drill too deep. My ferrules pressed in by hand, or with a little nudge using a block of wood. Do not hammer right on them. Now remount your new bridge, add strings, then setup for string height and intonation.
Phred
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SlotRod...That is sooo classy... They ought to COME like that! The Lipstick tube is a perfectly appropriate choice!
I've been considering a short scale to supplement my bass arsenal. Mainly for songs that require a bass solo, I figure it would be easier to play more complex passages and such.
You think overall build quality (such as a true neck and frets) is on par with the SX 3/4 line?
Is the string spacing at the bridge standard? If so, I could install a vintage Fender bridge.
Is the body smaller and lighter than a Jazz or P?
Just looking for a few tips.
You think overall build quality (such as a true neck and frets) is on par with the SX 3/4 line?
Is the string spacing at the bridge standard? If so, I could install a vintage Fender bridge.
Is the body smaller and lighter than a Jazz or P?
Just looking for a few tips.
Slotrod65, that Musicmaster bridge doesn't require string-through, does it? i'd be interested in using one to get individual saddle adjustment, but at least for the moment I'm not inclined to go string-through.
Also - do the screw mounting holes for the bridge line up with the stock screw holes?
Also - do the screw mounting holes for the bridge line up with the stock screw holes?
The Fender Musicmaster bridge is not drilled for top loading. I drilled the first one I got for top loading. This results in the strings veering to the left after passing over the saddles. Not really a big deal soundwise but it bothers me aesthetically.
This bridge requires a different screw hole pattern for mounting on the Bronco body.
This bridge requires a different screw hole pattern for mounting on the Bronco body.
Pilgrim: The musicmaster 4 saddle bridge is a through-the-body. I agree with Ponticat that it can be adapted as a toploader, but the mod is less than ideal.
Phred
Phred
