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Refinishing a perfectly good bass

Aeons ago, I had a 90s Ibanez SR something-or-other in a sparkle green finish. It was the first "real" bass I used in my first band, and I loved it. It probably was a SR200 or SR300, as I know I couldn't afford anything more expensive at the time. After that band split up, I sold my gear when I moved abroad, and sort of forgot about it. I don't even have any pictures of it from that era.

While on one of my numerous Home Depot runs for the Zhenya build, I came across a sparkle green Rust-Oleum glitter spray paint, and decided that I would use it on my next project.

Spray paints.jpg


Then, I went in search of what that next project would be. I considered another kit, but I didn't want to do that again so soon after Zhenya. So, I started looking for a bass to refinish, including an Ibanez SR500, the model that is infamous for its finish. But, as I was on a budget, I couldn't find one cheap enough.

I'm on Rondo Music's mailing list because I've bought a few instruments from them, and I was a B-stock Douglas WOB826 for sale at a steep discount due to a finishing flaw. As I was looking for a bass to refinish, I didn't mind the chip, and I quickly bought it.

image.jpeg


The chip in the finish is barely visible near the bridge pickup.

image.jpeg


It's been a few months since I bought the green paint, as well as the Douglas bass. I actually really like the ash look on the bass, but I also think it will look great with the green sparkle.

As I was testing the refinish of Zhenya's headstock, I tested the green paint. It worked better with a black primer, rather than the white one in the above photo, so that's my plan. The below test isn't perfect, but gives me what I need to know for using the green paint.

image.jpeg


But, before I do that, I want to try to get an "antique ash" look on the body. If I'm happy with that, I will save the green paint for another project later.

If nothing else, I will refinish this bass, and possibly replace the electronics inside, as I had a pot lose its shaft while trying to pull off the push-on knobs yesterday. Oops.

image.jpeg


Other tasks I plan to take on this bass include staining or painting the back of the neck and drilling holes and adding ferrules for string-through body stringing, as the bridge supports that. Hopefully I'll do a better job drilling the holes straight on this one!

So, while I'm not doing any real luthiery on this bass, I'll use the skills I picked up on my last build for this, and get ideas for the first "real" build. I'm planning to do that when we move into a house that will give me room to set up a workshop then, as I'm stretching the limits of what I can do here in our current home.

Stay tuned for more. Hopefully this will be a relatively quick project compared to my last one.
 
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Rather than start a new thread for my question I figured I'd piggy back it on this one:

I'm refinishing a Jaguar in a finish similar to the OP. There will be a fairly thick build-up, as my process will be:

Primer
Base color (thin)
Metal Flake
Kandy (thin)
Clear (lots of clear!)

I'm wondering if I should be concerned with blocking off the holes that the bridge gets screwed into. If so, I imagine the best way is to insert screws about halfway in so the heads aren't embedded in the clear. I was planning on leaving the pickguard mounting holes exposed, but am not sure whether the bridge mounting holes would pose a problem. Any advice?
 
I'm wondering if I should be concerned with blocking off the holes that the bridge gets screwed into. If so, I imagine the best way is to insert screws about halfway in so the heads aren't embedded in the clear. I was planning on leaving the pickguard mounting holes exposed, but am not sure whether the bridge mounting holes would pose a problem. Any advice?

Don't worry about it. The bridge mounting holes would be fine.

One thing I would suggest you to do, if didn't know it already, don't sand the body to the bare wood. Just scuff sand it using 600 grit paper. It would save you massive amount of pain and time.

All the best.
 
Rather than start a new thread for my question I figured I'd piggy back it on this one:

I'm refinishing a Jaguar in a finish similar to the OP. There will be a fairly thick build-up, as my process will be:

Primer
Base color (thin)
Metal Flake
Kandy (thin)
Clear (lots of clear!)

I'm wondering if I should be concerned with blocking off the holes that the bridge gets screwed into. If so, I imagine the best way is to insert screws about halfway in so the heads aren't embedded in the clear. I was planning on leaving the pickguard mounting holes exposed, but am not sure whether the bridge mounting holes would pose a problem. Any advice?

If you are using a Kandy you do not want to spray it directly onto the metal flake, you are inviting disaster by doing so. You need to spray at least 3 coats of clear over your flake and level sand it before spraying your Kandy. The flake will result in a rather bumpy finish, and sanding through the clear into the Kandy coat will result in a light area in the Kandy. So after you level sand it, then spray your Kandy, spray a few more coats of clear before cutting and buffing.
 
Wow, I almost forgot this project. I haven't touched the bass in months. Maybe I'll get back to it in the new year.

My plan was (is?) to sand to bare wood, solely because I want to try to grain-fill the ash first, before repainting.

I would advise against it. Its an opaque color, and you will just be removing a perfectly level factory sealer coat. Spraying over the factory finish will more than likely result in a better final result, and make life a whole lot easier. I would also recommend a black base vs the white

This is an emerald flake, (not out of a spray can) over a black base coat.
IMAG0008_zps7a10a2ea.jpg
 
If you are using a Kandy you do not want to spray it directly onto the metal flake, you are inviting disaster by doing so. You need to spray at least 3 coats of clear over your flake and level sand it before spraying your Kandy. The flake will result in a rather bumpy finish, and sanding through the clear into the Kandy coat will result in a light area in the Kandy. So after you level sand it, then spray your Kandy, spray a few more coats of clear before cutting and buffing.

Don't worry about it. The bridge mounting holes would be fine.

One thing I would suggest you to do, if didn't know it already, don't sand the body to the bare wood. Just scuff sand it using 600 grit paper. It would save you massive amount of pain and time.

All the best.


Thanks guys! I ended up starting my own thread so I don't end up hijacking eightyearsapril's.
Refinishing Jaguar