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Removing A Neck Finish

Not that anybody cares but just in case somebody searches this thread in the future, I went through with the work. Edpal and Sok Monkee's post were very useful so I basically followed those methods.

Thanks for following up on this!

I tried following the link that Sok Monkee posted, but the Sadowsky Forums are now shut down. Can you elaborate at all on what you did that came from there?

What is the "whiskering" thing?

So far, I'm just getting that I just remove the neck, tape off the parts I don't want to scuff up, and sand, starting with 220 and working my way up to 600.

From there, Tru-Oil (or other oil of choice) and Birchwood-Casey Gun Stock Wax (as T-O and B-C GSW are what EBMM uses on their non-gloss necked basses).
 
Thanks for following up on this!

I tried following the link that Sok Monkee posted, but the Sadowsky Forums are now shut down. Can you elaborate at all on what you did that came from there?

What is the "whiskering" thing?

So far, I'm just getting that I just remove the neck, tape off the parts I don't want to scuff up, and sand, starting with 220 and working my way up to 600.

From there, Tru-Oil (or other oil of choice) and Birchwood-Casey Gun Stock Wax (as T-O and B-C GSW are what EBMM uses on their non-gloss necked basses).

That is odd. They say it is due to spamming but I really wonder what was the tipping point... I'm sure there is a thread on this already.

Whiskering involves getting the wood wet, I use a damp shop towel (the thick paper towel stuff, not actual cloth), and letting it dry which causes the fibers of the wood to stick out, like shaving.

Remove the neck, tape off the headstock or anywhere you do not want to get sanded (go nuts with tape, it's cheap.) If you cannot remove the neck just tape everything off on the body as well. I start with 220 to get through the finish and work up through 320 and 400. I used the 600 for whiskering the first time because I had some, 400 grit works just as well for this.

After you have the wood where you want it I suggest taking two pieces of shop towel, one in your hand and one near your reach. Then you take a splash of oil, I use Tung, and rub it on neck. I use Tung because B&C used to be illegal in Canada due to it's chemical composition, I cannot tell a difference between a tung neck or a B&C EBMM neck so they both should work just as well. You can either pour the oil on the neck or on the towel and give the neck a quick rub down. Wipe the oil on and do not let sit any longer than it takes you to reach the other paper towel, this is how EBMM does it. If you let the oil sit it will get sticky. Also ensure to tape off the fretboard and anywhere you do not want oil to go. I do three coats of oil, I think EBMM does two. Do not put too many layers, you know how the unwanted result feels based on your shop bench.

Finally, after you are done oiling the neck you will want to give it an application or two of carnuba wax, I use Zymol but any automotive brand will work. Assemble it all and enjoy your super fast neck. On a side note, I am flabbergasted when people prefer gloss necks, an oiled neck has a smoother feel and plays much better in my experience. Every player who plays my necks wants me to do this for them.

I also suggest doing this outside and wear clothes you don't mind getting dirty. The poly or nitro washes out in my experience but you will get dirty, there is a lot of dust. Also, if you spill Tung on anything it stains, I have some splashes on my front walk that never dry. I put down a lot of newspaper when I do this inside but I do it in my mechanical room on a concrete floor, the newspaper seems to stop it but I do a quick cleanup.

I hope that helps. If I have overlooked anything let me know but I think that is it.
 
Whiskering involves getting the wood wet, I use a damp shop towel (the thick paper towel stuff, not actual cloth), and letting it dry which causes the fibers of the wood to stick out, like shaving.

Got it!

I have Tru-Oil and B-C GSW that I bought and use for oiling and waxing my EBMM Sterling neck. But, when I've done it, I haven't really liked the wax much. Now I just do a couple of coats of the Tru-Oil occasionally and that's it. So, I feel pretty good about what to do with the neck once it's stripped. I just wasn't sure about stripping it and whether to oil the front of the headstock or not.
 
If you go deeper down to raw wood, then you'll need to apply a new finish. If you go this far, oil is an excellent option.

Maple reacts to changes in humidity more than many other hardwoods. And to protect it from humidity changes you need to seal it from its environment. From that standpoint, oil is not an excellent choice. Popular, yes. Effective - much less so.

Here's a hierarchy for finishes in terms of how effective they are in protecting the wood from changes in RH (from least to most)

1. No finish
2. Wax
3 Oils (there are many gradations in this category, some are better then others, but none are as good as...
4. Lacquer
5. Poly

You can argue specific variations within these categories, but broadly speaking this hierarchy is fairly representative.

So, you might question what makes oil an excellent option. Feels good to some. Popular amongst some. Perhaps these are the excellencies you seek?
 
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I'm not here to argue about anything. I just know that what I like best is the feel of my EBMM Sterling, a Peavey Cirrus, or a Peavey Millennium neck. They all feel like bare wood, to me. Though the Millennium does seem to feel a little bit different than the other two. But, that could just be because the one I had was solid birdseye maple - with LOTS of birdseye.

I don't know how Peavey finished those two necks. But, I do know that EBMM uses Tru-Oil, then B-C Gun Stock Wax. So, that's what I want to use to replicate that feel on this new bass neck I have.

My Sterling is not the MOST stable neck I've owned. But, I've had nothing that felt better, and I don't really want to take the time finishing and refinishing with lacquer and poly just to see if I like them as well. Actually, I know I don't like poly. If I ever get to play with a neck with a lacquer finish and I like it better than the Tru-Oil feel, maybe I'll refinish this neck again. But, for now Tru-Oil is what I like best of the things I've tried. And the necks I've had have been plenty stable enough for me.
 
IBut, for now Tru-Oil is what I like best of the things I've tried. And the necks I've had have been plenty stable enough for me.
Feels good and popular. Two out of three ain't bad. Good enough for you and thousands of others. Be happy with your choice.

BTW I'm not being sarcastic. I wouldn't choose an oil finished neck for myself for the reasons I stated. I would much prefer a satin or flat poly, which is actually used on many necks that are perceived as being unfinished. Oil works for you. And since you are playing that bass, not me, it's a good choice so long as you understand there's a degree of compromise involved.

But then again, a player who uses a poly-finished neck for stability, but dislikes it's feel, is making a similar compromise. Which compromise is right? IDK. Both, I guess.
 
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I wouldn't argue oil necks are less stable, my oiled necks tend to require more adjustments. Mind you, all the necks I have re-finished in oil seem to be just as stable as before.

I'm not that worried about anything other than doing more setups. It's not like Ernie Balls are famous for necks twisting and they've been using this method longer than I've been alive.
 
My Godin had a satin finish neck which has now, after being played to death for 6 months by sweaty hands, glossed up very much from around the 3rd fret to the 10th fret or so. It has started to get a bit sticky and on a sweaty gig or rehearsal i'm constantly having to wipe it. Would a gentle pass with the scotch-brite or 1200 wet and dry paper be OK in this instance? I don't want to get rid of the finish, just take the gloss off again.
 
My Godin had a satin finish neck which has now, after being played to death for 6 months by sweaty hands, glossed up very much from around the 3rd fret to the 10th fret or so. It has started to get a bit sticky and on a sweaty gig or rehearsal i'm constantly having to wipe it. Would a gentle pass with the scotch-brite or 1200 wet and dry paper be OK in this instance? I don't want to get rid of the finish, just take the gloss off again.

I used a 3M grey pad for scuffing, that should get you where you like. You can find them in the paint section at your hardware store. You can re-use them over and over again. The green kitchen scotch brites work too if you already have them kicking around the house.
 
Hey there!

I just saw Scott Divine's video about neck finishing. I read a little about the topic and decided to go for it since I truly hated my heavy lacked neck from the very beginning.

I sanded down to bare wood then applied teak oil right after the procedure and let it sit for a day.
I am very happy with the outcome but I was wondering if a simple teak oil would do the job (protecting the wood)?

If not, what exactly could happen to my neck? Did I just sent this poor neck to a slow death? :)
 
I recently bought a used MIJ Precision bass and I don't like the neck finnish, I prefer satin instead of glossy. I informed myself regarding neck sanding by reading and I even tryed to sand the neck of two guitars, just to test.

By sanding just a little bit of finnish with a soft sandpaper (1500 grit) the difference n feel was huge, so I guess It will be fine.

What I want to know is if there is any advice on giving the neck of my bass a light sanding, will it be as fine as with the other guitars?
 
I will try scuffing it and see how similar it feels. If I do decide to go down to bare wood what type of oil should I use? I know Carvin offered a Tru-Oil neck finish when I ordered mine, I am guessing that is the feel I am after. I have heard something about gunstock wax with EBMM.
I removed my Jbass neck and sanded down to bare wood. I then applied 3 coats of Linseed oil. Wet sanding lightly after each coat applied and then applying another coat. I applied a coat let it dry 24 hrs and then rinse and repeat. The neck absolutely feels and looks great.
 
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I recently bought a used MIJ Precision bass and I don't like the neck finnish, I prefer satin instead of glossy. I informed myself regarding neck sanding by reading and I even tryed to sand the neck of two guitars, just to test.

By sanding just a little bit of finnish with a soft sandpaper (1500 grit) the difference n feel was huge, so I guess It will be fine.

What I want to know is if there is any advice on giving the neck of my bass a light sanding, will it be as fine as with the other guitars?

But I don't want to take it to bare wood, just sand a little to remove some of the finnish. Is there some way I can scratch the neck or making something bad to it?

You are on the right track, you just need a lower grit. I initially tried a satin finish but I much prefer an oil/wax. For satin, I use a grey 3M pad since it is re-usable. The grey pads are about 600 grit. You can find them in the paint section at any given hardware store. Be sure to tape off the body/headstock if you intend to leave the neck on the bass. Your playing will eventually polish the satin finish into a gloss requiring you to repeat the process at some point.
 
Which sandpaper grit is best? I used 320 on mine and it worked well but I worried it was too much so I did it lightly

A quick pass of 320 probably won't get through the finish on a Fender (or something thick).

Thanks for the comment DiabolusInMusic. 600 grit will only remove a fine layer of finnish? I also have some concerns on sanding evenly along the neck, I find it hard to do with sand paper because it's not easy to envolve the whole curvature with your hand.

It would take a while for 600 grit to go through the finish. The grey pad is a 600 grit replacement so that is why I recommend it. You can find finer 3M pads but not at Home Depot. There are sanding pads to help you with getting an even pressure. I just work somewhere that has good light and use my eyes. Don't forget that tape is cheap and mistakes are expensive. Don't hesitate to cover anywhere you might accidentally touch.
 
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Not that anybody cares but just in case somebody searches this thread in the future, I went through with the work. Edpal and Sok Monkee's post were very useful so I basically followed those methods.

After removing the neck and taping it off, I started with 220 grit, sanded the heck out of the neck. Went to 320, sanded some more. Went up to 400 and kept sanding. I did the "whiskering" technique mentioned in Sok Monkee's post where I wet the neck, let it dry and sanded it. I used 600 grit for this step since I had some laying around.

I ended up using Tung Oil to finish the neck. A quick wipe with a paper towel and another quick wipe with a fresh paper towel to remove it. After letting the Tung Oil dry, I used 0000 steel wool to give the neck a quick once over. Finally, I applied Zymol (automotive wax) to the neck.

The neck feels absolutely amazing. I will be going through the rest of my basses/guitars and doing this to all of them.

Thanks again for all the assistance.
The future arrived and I found this very helpful. Thanks!
 
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