Sounds to me like it must have been replaced or Rick changed how he did/does things. Both my '00 RB5-FL and '05 RB4-FL had detented pots and both worked as expected. The tone control gave a smooth, gradual range of motion, so to speak.
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Renaissance/Turner Basses Club
- Thread starter EdwardofHuncote
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- Aug 21, 2013
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- I privately own and operate a local musical instument repair shop.
Both of my Renaissance basses have detented pots as well, and taper like you'd expect.
My memory ain't what it used to be, but somewhere in this thread I seem to recall this topic coming up though, non-detented pots, or a center-detent pot where there was no need for one. As if they installed one accidentally. Something like that. It's here. Or maybe it's a weird deja-vu moment.
My memory ain't what it used to be, but somewhere in this thread I seem to recall this topic coming up though, non-detented pots, or a center-detent pot where there was no need for one. As if they installed one accidentally. Something like that. It's here. Or maybe it's a weird deja-vu moment.
- Aug 21, 2013
- 6,668
- 2
- 16,475
- Disclosures
- I privately own and operate a local musical instument repair shop.
I knew I wasn't nuts. Post #201, Jan. 8th 2015, @Jon Moody had a Renaissance with a volume pot that had a center detent. It happens.
Yeah, I'd just email the shop and ask what the ham-sandwich.
Yeah, I'd just email the shop and ask what the ham-sandwich.
I like having the active EQ, but it will take a little bit to figure out how best to use it. I also like the way the active EQ works in tandem with the passive tone control, very interesting approach and enables a wide range of options. I find I'm using the piezo much less than I had been prior to adding the active EQ. I was trying to cut the highs a little with the active EQ to reduce the acoustic-like openness in the sound. It wasn't working. Then today I was fooling with it and decided to try cutting the bass...that was the ticket! It for some reason cleaned up the tone to what I was looking for. A little counter intuitive for me, but it did just what I wanted it to do.
- Aug 21, 2013
- 6,668
- 2
- 16,475
- Disclosures
- I privately own and operate a local musical instument repair shop.
Pretty sure mine has wood screws to hold the strap buttons, just sanded flush with the back of the stick. I put a felt pad over the exposed end.
*if I were to engineer a better idea, a machine screw with a crown nut and some loctite would be the ticket.
D
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That's a much better-looking extender that my black metal one! I'm trying to fit a strap lock, currently have it on there with an undersized bolt with a locking nut but I'd rather match the thread so it would be flush. Maybe I'll think about a wooden extender though.
Perhaps, but I bet your metal one is a lot stronger that those oversized popsicle sticks/depressing tongue devices
that Rick switched to. 
MY RB5-FL ('00) had the metal version; the '05 RB4-FL's was wood. The metal one felt more secure in the support department.
D
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Perhaps, but I bet your metal one is a lot stronger that those oversized popsicle sticks/depressing tongue devices
MY RB5-FL ('00) had the metal version; the '05 RB4-FL's was wood. The metal one felt more secure in the support department.
Well here's my metal slab with straplock, on my preferred side of course
- Aug 21, 2013
- 6,668
- 2
- 16,475
- Disclosures
- I privately own and operate a local musical instument repair shop.
I don't think I realized those metal ones had been around that long. My fretless came with a rosewood 'Dingus' extension, and using it as a model, I made the maple one for the Special. I made a couple more of them for guys on here that have since signed off and moved on. The key difference I soon discovered, being the neck mount hole pattern. (there are at least two different drill patterns, placing the mount holes further apart...)
Yeah @ficelles, this is probably just a trip to the U.K. equivalent of a hardware store. (ironmonger? I had to look it up, being fascinated with English to English translations) I've been thinking about re-doing my strap buttons with 'acorn' nuts, with a little bit of thread-locking cement for security.
These thingys:
@Jeff Scott, still thinking on how to un-line my lined fingerboard. I still think it's possible to laminate another veneer of rosewood over the existing fingerboard. The hard part really, is how to clamp the entire span of the neck in one shot. I'd need to make a 4' radiussed caul, and it needs to be pretty darn close to right or the edges won't be glued down. I know how, but boy it'll be time consuming.
D
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Mine is like this on the other side at the moment, a dome nut would definitely be an improvement (as would a bit of paint). I think we also say "hardware store" these days btw, "ironmonger" is very old-fashioned
Another corner of Talkbass I wasn't aware of here- I should have know.
I've enjoyed reading through a number of posts here in the past day or so. As a way of introduction I'll post some photos of my Turner. Has some others in the past but I like this one the best of them all. It's a 2003 made from quartersawn California sycamore, taken from the Santa Cruz mountains.
Anyway nice to meet y'all.
- Tim
I've enjoyed reading through a number of posts here in the past day or so. As a way of introduction I'll post some photos of my Turner. Has some others in the past but I like this one the best of them all. It's a 2003 made from quartersawn California sycamore, taken from the Santa Cruz mountains.
Anyway nice to meet y'all.
- Tim
- Aug 21, 2013
- 6,668
- 2
- 16,475
- Disclosures
- I privately own and operate a local musical instument repair shop.
What would Dan Erlewine do?
Dan's The Man, but he'd be utterly confused by this plan. (it wouldn't involve enough tools and jigs) I would be using a drawer full of my Stew-mac cam clamps.
What I need is one of their radiussed sanding blocks but about 30" long. I have a set of 3, each one is only 10" long, with a different concave radius. They are made for leveling frets and dressing up fingerboards. I think 12" / 16" / 20" are the three. I can't remember right off the top of my head if Rick did a compound radius on his necks or not. If he did, that might simplify this... I just line them up, and line them with some adhesive backed cork to make up the difference.
I think it's worth doing. Worst that happens is I have to sand it off and start over. I agree the unlined board is visually more attractive. Plus, I'd still have the reference point of the sidelines. I really just need some time.
I've been up there in my shop today working on this banjo. 120 years old, and I got it playable again. It'll probably never be played, but the family who brought it to me will be amazed that it was even salvageable.
I seem to remember reading that RT's first luthier project was a banjo...
- Aug 21, 2013
- 6,668
- 2
- 16,475
- Disclosures
- I privately own and operate a local musical instument repair shop.
Tim, glad you found this site, welcome! Beautiful bass you have there!
Mines lined as well but I don't mind it at all. It being 35" and the rest of my fretless RS are 34".I wish mine were unlined, but that's how they came from the "factory"!
Yours looks fab!
