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Replacement for 09 AmStd Bridge

JimmyM

JimmyM

Apr 11, 2005
127,257
125,180
Plymouth NC
Disclosures
Endorsing: Yamaha, Ampeg, Line 6, EMG
#1
Got an 09 AmStd Precision that I like to use thru-body because that way the ferrules won't fall out. But I switched strings to Dunlop Super Bright Nickels, and now the D string bridge saddle has to be moved up so far that the saddle no longer sits in the tracks. This bugs me to no end for no other reason than it happened. Doesn't affect sound, doesn't seem to affect action...but it's just wrong ;)

Unfortunately, upon doing the requisite searches, it appears that nobody makes a direct drop-in replacement for the AmStd bridge. At first, I was going to get all specific with my requests...direct replacement, bent-metal, chrome only, does both thru-body and top, doesn't look big and heavy...but after looking around, it appears I'm just SOL unless I want to drill, which I definitely don't.

Or am I SOL after all? You guys always seem to know something I don't. So how about it? Anyone know of something I missed?
 
#2
huh?

you mean that one string won't intonate unless it's way off from the others, and way out of the normal range of the bridge?

gee, i wonder where the actual problem is? ;)

also, next time you change strings, push the ferrules out entirely, smear wood glue in the holes, put them back in and string it up.
 
#3
Jimmy, not sure if it will help your issue but Hipshot make their A & B bridges with what they call the FM2 option which will drop in for the 3 screw, string thru Fenders. They offer both aluminum and brass. Go with aluminum for more punch or brass for more compression/sustain.

Babicz makes a direct replacement as well, I adjusted one on a Brubaker J bass and it was pretty neat.

Edit: I agree with walterw, check the string. Beeswax also works great to keep the string ferrules in place.
 
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#4
walterw said:
huh?

you mean that one string won't intonate unless it's way off from the others, and way out of the normal range of the bridge?

gee, i wonder where the actual problem is? ;)
Click to expand...
Why would that be a problem, Walter? Other bridges have got way more range specifically to deal with things like that. It's only a problem on that bass. And really, if I weren't so anal about it, it wouldn't be a problem on that one either.

also, next time you change strings, push the ferrules out entirely, smear wood glue in the holes, put them back in and string it up.
Click to expand...
That is not a bad idea at all. Honestly, I'd rather go through the bridge anyway. I don't think they sound any different, and it's easier to restring. Thx for the tip!
 
#5
JimmyM said:
Why would that be a problem, Walter? Other bridges have got way more range specifically to deal with things like that.
Click to expand...
you missed my (overly smartass) point!

when one string wants to intonate way off from the rest, to the point where a bridge runs out of room, the problem is usually a bad string.

as for the loose ferrule thing, i see it all the time, with american standard teles too. wood glue works, and is easy to clean up with no risk to the finish. once the glue has dried with that set of strings holding the ferrules in tight, subsequent sets can be strung however.
 
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#6
rmars said:
Jimmy, not sure if it will help your issue but Hipshot make their A & B bridges with what they call the FM2 option which will drop in for the 3 screw, string thru Fenders. They offer both aluminum and brass. Go with aluminum for more punch or brass for more compression/sustain.

Babicz makes a direct replacement as well, I adjusted one on a Brubaker J bass and it was pretty neat.

Edit: I agree with walterw, check the string. Beeswax also works great to keep the string ferrules in place.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips. Both are way more than I wanted to spend, though I do have Christmas coming up ;) Checked out the Babicz. I'm sure it's a killer bridge but I don't like the strings sinking into the saddle. Hipshot A looks doable, though. Only thing is, the 3 holes in the one pictured don't line up with the one in my bass, and they don't have a pic of the thru-body version to see, so I guess I'd have to ask them about that.

As for the intonation, I've got a few sets of these strings and they all do it, so I don't think it's the string itself. Sounds great and the bass plays in tune. They're actually excellent strings. They have that steel zing combined with an overall warmth that I don't get that out of steels I've played. They should have just extended the bridge track.
 
#7
JimmyM said:
Thanks for the tips. Both are way more than I wanted to spend, though I do have Christmas coming up ;) Checked out the Babicz. I'm sure it's a killer bridge but I don't like the strings sinking into the saddle. Hipshot A looks doable, though. Only thing is, the 3 holes in the one pictured don't line up with the one in my bass, and they don't have a pic of the thru-body version to see, so I guess I'd have to ask them about that.
Click to expand...

Check Ebay for better prices on the Hipshots, just do a search for Hipshot FM2. The pic on their site may be screwed up but the actual item will match up perfectly. If I recall the hole pattern for the string thru bridges Fender has used since 97(?, can't recall the year) is the same as was used on the early 50's 2 saddle P Basses bridges.

FWIW I've had both the aluminum and brass B series FM2 on a bass I assembled and IMHO the aluminum seemed to have more of the punch of a standard bent plate bridge. I was not able to directly compare it with a stock Fender bridge.

Oh yeah, one more option I just thought of, Leo Quan Badass 3. I haven't looked for a while but they used to have two saddle options with those, one with grooves and another that the saddle had to file a groove in the saddle yourself.
 
#8
Yeah, I checked Ebay, and you're right...they do look like they'll fit with no need to drill. Wish it looked a little less massive, but being aluminum, it probably weighs less than what's in there, which is a good thing. Looks more solidly adjusted and easier on the strings, too. Definitely will go aluminum. I think I may go with that one...going to sleep on it if I can actually go to sleep ;) Thanks for the tip!
 
#11
JimmyM said:
As for the intonation, I've got a few sets of these strings and they all do it, so I don't think it's the string itself.
Click to expand...
huh;

myself i'm using a first-gen american standard, so the bridge has no tracks and just uses string tension to force the saddles together like on a vintage bridge:

bassbridge.jpg
 
#12
Oh yeah, my 98 Jazz had that bridge, I believe. That's what I wanted, really, although I'd have preferred that it allow top loading...can't tell if that one does but mine didn't...only thru-body. But I would have preferred one of them. As far as Hipshots go, I think the B would have suited me better but I couldn't get over the look.

Did the wood glue tonight. Looks like it should hold them in well. Cool tip...thx!
 
#13
yeah, the first-gen was through-body only.

i think the tradeoff for adding top-loading was the coarser threads on the E and A saddles so the strings didn't jump the tracks, which meant that the spacing could never be set perfectly even like it can be on the earlier ones. also, the early saddles are steel as opposed to brass on the later ones, and i like to think i can hear a tiny bit more attack from the old saddles. (also, i feel better about there being only 3 screws holding it in with through-body stringing.)

still, it's really strange that you're running out of adjustment room here, i've literally never had that happen over the years of setting up what has to be hundreds of basses with your current bridge by now.

no saddle should be set less than the mathematical scale length; it might be worth measuring with a ruler or tape measure from the center of your 12th fret to the bridge, you should get at the closest the exact 1/2 scale length, 17" where the string actually touches he saddle.
 
#14
walterw said:
i think the tradeoff for adding top-loading was the coarser threads on the E and A saddles so the strings didn't jump the tracks, which meant that the spacing could never be set perfectly even like it can be on the earlier ones.
Click to expand...
I had a 05 American Standard Jazz and the rear pickup cavity was off center by about 5mm. Combine that with those wide track E & A saddle string alignment issues and it looked pretty odd.
 
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#15
walterw said:
yeah, the first-gen was through-body only.

i think the tradeoff for adding top-loading was the coarser threads on the E and A saddles so the strings didn't jump the tracks, which meant that the spacing could never be set perfectly even like it can be on the earlier ones. also, the early saddles are steel as opposed to brass on the later ones, and i like to think i can hear a tiny bit more attack from the old saddles. (also, i feel better about there being only 3 screws holding it in with through-body stringing.)

still, it's really strange that you're running out of adjustment room here, i've literally never had that happen over the years of setting up what has to be hundreds of basses with your current bridge by now.

no saddle should be set less than the mathematical scale length; it might be worth measuring with a ruler or tape measure from the center of your 12th fret to the bridge, you should get at the closest the exact 1/2 scale length, 17" where the string actually touches he saddle.
Click to expand...
All I can tell you is that if the saddle is there, the string plays in tune. If not, it doesn't. Don't know why, but I like the sound of the strings so much that I'd rather change the bridge than change them ;)
 
#16
So I got home from my gig and the bridge was waiting for me. I've got to say that changing the bridge was totally the move. But it's really weird...check out the saddle placement on the Hipshot compared to the Fender bridge...same Dunlop strings, both going thru-body (which ends as soon as the 4 sets I'm rotating in the alcohol bath go bad...not having to thread the string through the bridge rules!), same string height...please pardon the bad photography and fingerprints:

Bridges-HipshotvsFender_zps6f85ecae.jpg


For some strange reason, the Hipshot saddles are arranged in a typical diagonal pattern, while the Fender bridge had the D string sticking out way further than the others. Not only that, but the Hipshot intonated much more quickly and much more accurately and seems to play in tune better. Now with D'addario XL's, the saddles on the Fender bridge lined up diagonally, but that's how they lined up with the Dunlops. That was not a result I was expecting. What could cause the saddle placement to be so wildly different on these two bridges?

BTW, I was panicking a bit while intonating the Hipshot. I couldn't get the E string saddle back far enough to be in tune because the screw was bottoming out and wouldn't budge. I was wondering what to do, and then I looked in the little ziploc bag with the wrench and mounting screws and found two short intonation screws. Nice! Glad they thought to include them. Almost had it adjusted with the long screw but not quite, and that would have driven me nuts.
 
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