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Replacing an ATK Bridge?

aproud1

Don't surround yourself with yourself.
Supporting Member
Aug 13, 2007
6,418
6,455
Cincy, OH
Wondering if anyone has replaced the bridge on an ATK? I really like the new ATK800, great playing, great sounding and I mean really great sounding bass. I just don't dig the bridge. It looks like there is enough room to remove the existing bridge and install another for proper intonation and even maybe using the string through body feature. I don't care about stringing through body but I guess it's nice to have options. I know this is a terrible thought and supposedly is an amazing design feature but I really think I'd like it with a different bridge.

Any thoughts?
 
Buying a new bass with the intention of seriously modifying it is inherently flawed thinking.





There's nothing that special about the current ATKs to make going through all this rigmarole and degradation of value worth the effort and money.






I disagree. The two atk800's I've played sounded and played better than any previous version I've played.
 
Meanwhile, a light year into the future since this thread began...

I own an ATK 750K, and it’s a great instrument that I’ve had for 9 years. I sold it to a bud 2 years ago... then bought it back this winter. Although, there’s always been something clumsy about it But it’s also charmed me. I have also put it up at my local music store as a trade in value, but they weren’t interested. Had it on Kijiji recently think a new Sire PJ maple neck/Tobacco burst Would be better... only one nibble of interest.

So: I will make it mine.
1st: sanded the neck profile from round Louisville Slugger, to a flatter back. Carefully done with scaled grades of sandpaper 80 to wet sand body work emery 600. Immediately better!
2nd: Hipshot ultralite tuners from a friend: dropping 110g off the head.
3rd: The Bridge weighs 455 g, and as a big flat brass plate wrapping around the triple coil pickup, I think it sucks more tone than it transfers; it’s ugly and covers up a lot of really beautiful Koa top. See a Gotoh 404 string through/top load I like - but means addressing the electrical ground somewhere, because of the shorter bridge.

Also considering one of these new Ray Ross saddles bridges for the experiment. But just dropped $297CND on the ridiculously overpriced Hipshot Ric bridge (triggered after considering it for 6 yrs), so will skip ‘for the sake of science’ approach, and try the $40 Gotoh (they make quality stuff and I’m already familiar with their gear).

4th: remove the poly-plastic-reverberation-straight-jacket coating on the body, and get it to the beautiful open-pore ash and koa wood. This is drastic, but life is short and the process is a learning experience.

Rich bass players can just go ahead and buy another $4000 boutique bass to show photos of.
 
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BRIDGE replaced with an inexpensive but high quality bridge machined in Korea. Had to drill a new ground wire channel and I also drilled angles out on the bridge’s string-through holes (just my preference).
TUNERS replaced with HipShot light tuner
NECK I sanded down to a flatter profile that I much prefer.
It plays really well now, feels better, is a little lighter (stock bridge weighed 1 pound on its own) and my ATK750 looks so much better. The ATK’s stock bridge I cut down and fit well onto a cheap 3/4 bass I pack for motorcycle travel/camping with a Blackstar Flybass amp. And it’s added weight also counterbalanced the little cheapy perfectly. A win win.
 

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BRIDGE replaced with an inexpensive but high quality bridge machined in Korea.
TUNERS replaced with HipShot light tuner
NECK I sanded down to a flatter profile that I much prefer.
It plays really well now, feels better, is a little lighter (stock bridge weighed 1 pound on its own) and my ATK750 looks so much better. The ATK’s stock bridge I cut down and fit well onto a cheap 3/4 bass I pack for motorcycle travel/camping with a Blackstar Flybass amp. And it’s added weight also counterbalanced the little cheapy perfectly. A win win.

Looks good. Glad it worked out for you.