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Restoring a 70's 810

#21
240 watts of tubes into 810 should be more than adequate I'd imagine ;) This looks like a fun project and should be a nice sounding rig.

IIRC those have 6L6GCs for the power tubes so it's not going to be much in Ampeg territory tonally I'd imagine, not sure if that's your goal or not.

If it is a goal, AFAIK 7027s can be used in most 6L6GC circuits with minimal modification (let a knowledgeable amp tech do it, though) and might get you closer. Obviously the right preamp helps, too. Not familiar with the one you're using.
 
#23
Thanks Dave! Ill be sure to check it out tonight when I get home or tomorrow at my office.

The verellen is a bassman circuit so I don't think it will be too ampeg sounding at all. Good thing I have a 76 v4-b for when ampeg is the tonal goal. ImageUploadedByTalkBass1363911071.958037.jpg
 
#26
Looks good man. If the sander you're using is orbital, it doesn't matter but other wise remember to sand with the grain. I'd go 120 grit then 220. Work up. Save the wood shavings/dust. That stuff is great at filling holes. Mix with glue and water. Also if there's any dings try the damp warm rag trick.

Keep it up man! Can't wait to see it progress!
 
#27
I'm pretty sure my sander is orbital. In going to work up to about 150 once I get it all stripped and start staining. Definitely planning on mixing clean dust with glue for the proper filler.
 
#31
mjac28 said:
Looks like a cool project and a shout out to my Meatsmoke brother.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Welcome!

DethByDoom said:
You really might wanna get up to 220 if you're doing a stain and finish. With 150 it'll look and feel rough. Not gonna be a smooth finish.
Click to expand...

I read in some sources that the higher you sand the more you begin to affect how well the wood will absorb the stain. So I was going to stop at 150 or 180. I'll see how it feels since 220 is only 2 more step...Then I was planning on lightly finish sanding between coats of stain and poly.

Hopefully I'll be able to get the other side and the back stripped down in the coming week.
 
#32
Never heard that about the smoothness affecting stain absorption. It's never been an issue for me. The smoothness of the finish will REALLY affect your sealer. Are you going to use a spar urethane? They're pretty tough.

My gramps was a carpenter. He taught me to finish with 220. Use matching brand and types of stains and sealers. I use minwax oil based stains and urethanes. Fine natural brushes. Never ever foam brushes. Oh, and try the "green" paint thinners they have now. They're pretty cool, no fumes.

Just my $.02. Taught and learned the hard way.

Totally copied you btw...

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?p=14075716#post14075716
 
#33
Cool thanks! I really like the look of your wood... ha!
So you brushed your stain on then wiped it off wet? Hmn... How many coats?
Did you sand btwn coats of stain? If so what grit?
did you sand between coats of urethane? Which grit (s)?
 
#34
Thanks man! alway wondered what a natural wood finished 810 would look like. Can't wait to see it!

I did one coat of stain. Wipe on, wipe off. The stain got at best a min and a half to soak in. But my wood was super dry. I'm sure yours will be too. Now if I was going with a cherry or something other than ebony or Jacobean I'd have gave it a thick coat for ten-fifteen mins, wipped off, then done it again. That way it'd be rich/deep looking. Never sanded between coats. Always did them as soon as the stain allowed.

I like helmsman spar urethane since it deals better with temperature changes and its an indoor/outdoor stain. Sanding between coats of sealer is a bit of a misnomer IMO. All you're really doing is scuffing the finish lightly to help it bond to the previous one. I like to use 220 grit or slightly higher sanding sponges with a light touch to scuff it up.

It's also all about the fine natural brush. One that's good for you're type of urethane. Brush with the grain. Just a little on the brush at a time. First coat will take more because to wood will absorb a bit. Light coats. It should just look kinda wet. The analogy that made it click for me: "imagine you're gently painting a baby"
 
#36
twhitedc said:
Gotcha, Thanks a bunch... I was never really a fan of sanding between stain.. When you say "Wiped" the stain on and off... Did you use a rag or a natural fiber brush? 2 coats?
Click to expand...

Wiped on with a foam brush pretty thick. Then I wiped/ rubbed it off(and in a bit no doubt) with a stack of old clean tee shirts. It took 2 shirts inside and out. There are special towels you can get but they're mostly made for rubbed/oil finishes I think. I think they're terry cloth... Just don't use anything that will scratch or leave "fuzzies" all over it. So no paper towels.

Cabot and minwax are both good products with good labels that tell you how to apply them. Their websites have some videos too. You tube has a few good vids of PBS program the new Yankee workshop. If you can get past hearing "dado" a hundred times, Norm will show you how its done.
 

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