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REVERSING THE RELIC Matte Refin

#25
Rat Wax! Wipes on, gets absorbed by the finish and dries matte. Hopeful that it will keep the finish that way.

P1100314_zpsi4gywmte.jpg


Found ths AllParts guard in a parts drawer, no idea where it came from. I'm thinking of blacking out the three ply and matting the pearl.

P1100300_zpsqd1ypx0m.jpg
 
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#28
Dadagoboi said:
Rat Wax! Wipes on, gets absorbed by the finish and dries matte. Hopeful that it will keep the finish that way.

P1100314_zpsi4gywmte.jpg


Found ths AllParts guard in a parts drawer, no idea where it came from. I'm thinking of blacking out the three ply and matting the pearl.

P1100300_zpsqd1ypx0m.jpg
Click to expand...
Love it, I would black out the edges but I don't think I would matte the pearl, I think the contrast of shiny and matte looks good and would make the hardware stand out less, assuming you're not going to use satin hardware.
 
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#31
Davemonkey2 said:
I like the ano as well; but if you are going with chrome for hardware, the black match far better. I wouldn't matte the pearl because it makes a nice contrast. Just my opinion.
Click to expand...

Here's a comparison between the stock gloss pickguard and a control cover I sanded with 1800 grit micro mesh and rat waxed.

P1100318_zpsbbu3puot.jpg


P1100322_zpsfmvkfyso.jpg


I'm liking the satin effect, I think it will be better with what I've got in my head for the completed bass. It may not work but the only way to find out is to take the concept as far as possible. The satin effect on the pearl can be easily reversed by micro meshing it back up to 12000 grit
 
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#36
Love the grey matte. You don't see many guitars with matte finishes, and it's such a great look. My G&L LB-100 is finished in the matte Fullerton Red, and I always get compliments on it.

I wish I had a proper workshop like yours to do this type of work in. I've done a few refins in my garage, but it's in a townhouse complex and far from optimal. Until I have a good workspace, I'm done with them for now - it's too much headache.
 
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#37
Loooong time on this one but worth the wait. Pure Vintage '64 pickup, it sounds like my USA '64 AVRI. It's a little lighter due to body drilling and tuners.

JnMu0yl.jpg


I 'ebonized' the fretboard with leather dye (top), then blacked out the dots with a sharpie.

lGVIpTE.jpg


Middle is undyed rosewood and bottom is actual ebony. Tuners are AllParts Ultralite clones.
 
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#38
learned a lot of tips reading thorough this thread. I would have never thought of using the plastic rod to fill the p/g holes and I've built plastic models for 40 years. I have tons of the stuff. I always used kabob skewers for that but getting the ends smooth compared to the body was always tough.

Nice bass!

BnB
 
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#39
bound'n'blocked said:
learned a lot of tips reading thorough this thread. I would have never thought of using the plastic rod to fill the p/g holes and I've built plastic models for 40 years. I have tons of the stuff. I always used kabob skewers for that but getting the ends smooth compared to the body was always tough.

Nice bass!

BnB
Click to expand...
Thanks!

Other advantages with the plastic rod/super glue method: it hold screws a lot better than any end grain wood, like toothpicks, skewers, or dowels...and when you redrill very slightly off center holes the drill bit is less likely to wander back to the old hole. Also makes very visible side dots.
 
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