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Reynolds Wrap shielding

OK...here's the deal...

for me, copper foil is quite difficult to come by and really expensive when you find it...so I use carpet tape and layer aluminium foil onto the tape. The 2" wide carpet tape is made from a loose grid of cotton with glue stuck to it, so it makes a good re-inforced backing. And, at the same time, it allows for decent electrical contact when you overlap the strips (no soldering required). To connect ground wires, I simply fan out the strands of the wire and stick another layer of the foil on top, sandwiching the wire inside. It works great, I've done a couple of basses and a few electronics projects this way (shielding plastic boxes).
 
I just cannot understand why people would go through all the trouble of shielding a bass in such a half-arssed manner. No offense to those that do, but are you seriously so strapped you cannot afford the few extra dollars for true shielding tape with conductive adhesive, assuring true and full continuity??

If you are going to put forth the effort, why use substandard materials?
 
I just cannot understand why people would go through all the trouble of shielding a bass in such a half-arssed manner. No offense to those that do, but are you seriously so strapped you cannot afford the few extra dollars for true shielding tape with conductive adhesive, assuring true and full continuity??

If you are going to put forth the effort, why use substandard materials?


because:

1) some materials just AREN'T readily available
2) if done correctly, it's not "half-arssed" at all
3) aluminium foil makes as good a faraday cage as copper

three reasons why...whether or not you understand them is not my problem...

money has little to do with it...although, I seriously would not do this to a $3K bass, simply because it's PERCEIVED as dodgy, even though it isn't. (pretty things for the layman)


and what do you mean by "true and full continuity"...dude, we're talking a faraday cage here...if all the individual pieces connect electrically, and the pieces cover fully, then the cage is complete...it doesn't have to be water proof :rollno:

rock on..
 
I had to revamp this topic. I am not gonna argue the aluminum vs copper matter but I would kindly ask someone to explain what exactly does "conductive adhesive" mean?! For example if I decide to use aluminum, which glue or adhesive (or whatever) should I use?
 
I had to revamp this topic. I am not gonna argue the aluminum vs copper matter but I would kindly ask someone to explain what exactly does "conductive adhesive" mean?! For example if I decide to use aluminum, which glue or adhesive (or whatever) should I use?

"Conductive adhesive" means exactly what the name implies.
The adhesive material is electrically conductive as opposed to being an insulator.
 
There's no necessity or benefit to soldering shielding. All you need is overlap and eventual continuity.

If you want to do metal shielding, the simplest cheap way is gummed aluminum tape.

I'm still not clear on what they sell that stuff to do, though! :hmm:

It has replaced Duct Tape in the HVAC industry.

Duct tape is great for everything ... except ducts.
 
I had assumed that, but it just didn't seem to have the strength I would expect they'd want in that application, especially compared to something like the old "duct tape."

This stuff is just gummed foil. :hmm:

I see what you mean.

Duct joints are secured with screws, then sealed with tape.

The foil tape is stronger than you'd think, after it's applied. The wrinkles add rigidity. Force vectors, etc..
 
because:

1) some materials just AREN'T readily available
2) if done correctly, it's not "half-arssed" at all
3) aluminium foil makes as good a faraday cage as copper

three reasons why...whether or not you understand them is not my problem...

money has little to do with it...although, I seriously would not do this to a $3K bass, simply because it's PERCEIVED as dodgy, even though it isn't. (pretty things for the layman)


and what do you mean by "true and full continuity"...dude, we're talking a faraday cage here...if all the individual pieces connect electrically, and the pieces cover fully, then the cage is complete...it doesn't have to be water proof :rollno:

rock on..
Wow. Someone needs to switch to decaf.
 
true shielding tape with conductive adhesive, assuring true and full continuity

I honestly have no idea, but an educated guess would tell me that conductive adhesive is not quite as conductive as an actual solder joint. AFAIK, conductive adhesive is basically glue with a conductive material mixed into it. There is bound to be some resistance there, just as conductive paint can be resistive.
With that being said, soldering the pieces together would provide greater continuity.

*Disclaimer for those that are going to argue with me:*
We're most likely talking tiny fractions of an ohm, nothing significant.
I'm just bringing this up to prove the point, even if in practice, it won't matter at all whether you solder or use conductive adhesive.
 
There's a misunderstanding obviously. I was talking about the adhesive that will be used to stick the alu-foil onto the cavity, since the proper copper foil is already self adhesive.

I am not trying to argue here just looking for a simple answer.