Rhiannon and Galadriel

[michaelwayneharwood]

I started re-sawing the 8/4 ambrosia maple stock for the new body for Galadriel.

 

[michaelwayneharwood]

Tonight saw holes drilled for the neck, and a 3/4" round-over applied to the neck. There is some shaping yet to do on the neck to smooth out the transition from the neck to the body, but so far so good. @rondodunbar decided on a fairly wide string spacing up top -= 2" at the nut. A quick layout of the bridge and the headless tuners was done for a sanity check.

 

[Hamish MacCleod]

Woo-hoo! Batter up! Looking very good, Michael.
Rondo

 

[michaelwayneharwood]

Woo-hoo! Batter up! Looking very good, Michael.
Rondo

Thanks man!

Tonight I drilled out the jack hole, and the hole for the switch. The bridge is in process of being ebonized and finish sanded - that process takes a few days as I like to let the ebonizing solution fully dry for 24 hours before sanding. I still may tier the 4 outer string channels to match the fingerboard radius - I am going to see how she does without the material removed first and then decide. I may slim up the bridge a bit as well...the ETS MK III is 25mm deep, and though that's a bit too skinny for my taste I think I may have overdone it in the interest of having plenty of intonation room. I am going to recess the bridge into the body so that the bridge saddle for the middle string is slightly above the fingerboard. Ron wants a higher action than I would go for, so I will play it safe and make sure it's nice and high - I think it's wise to start bigger and higher than I need and remove a hair at a time until the right balance is reached.

The custom tuners look nice, though we may carve an angled bed so that the break angle does not lift up the tuner blocks. I am going to try it first without the angled bed and then Ron can make a decision from there.

I am really pleased with how the grain of the fingerboard matches up with the the grain of the body. I would love to take credit for it as intentional, but in all honesty it was just a fortunate happenstance. I don't think I could have matched it up this well had I tried.

 

[Will_White]

Thanks man!

Tonight I drilled out the jack hole, and the hole for the switch. The bridge is in process of being ebonized and finish sanded - that process takes a few days as I like to let the ebonizing solution fully dry for 24 hours before sanding. I still may tier the 4 outer string channels to match the fingerboard radius - I am going to see how she does without the material removed first and then decide. I may slim up the bridge a bit as well...the ETS MK III is 25mm deep, and though that's a bit too skinny for my taste I think I may have overdone it in the interest of having plenty of intonation room. I am going to recess the bridge into the body so that the bridge saddle for the middle string is slightly above the fingerboard. Ron wants a higher action than I would go for, so I will play it safe and make sure it's nice and high - I think it's wise to start bigger and higher than I need and remove a hair at a time until the right balance is reached.

The custom tuners look nice, though we may carve an angled bed so that the break angle does not lift up the tuner blocks. I am going to try it first without the angled bed and then Ron can make a decision from there.

I am really pleased with how the grain of the fingerboard matches up with the the grain of the body. I would love to take credit for it as intentional, but in all honesty it was just a fortunate happenstance. I don't think I could have matched it up this well had I tried.

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How are you planning on grounding the strings with the individual tuners and wooden bridge? A metal headpiece?

 

[michaelwayneharwood]

How are you planning on grounding the strings with the individual tuners and wooden bridge? A metal headpiece?

I am not planning on grounding it. The Lace pickups are VERY low noise, and based on my tests in my extremely noisy environment at home it's not really needed.

 

[Will_White]

I am not planning on grounding it. The Lace pickups are VERY low noise, and based on my tests in my extremely noisy environment at home it's not really needed.

That's surprising I haven't ran into any pickups that didn't require a bridge ground, it's also good news for my hollow body that I'm putting a set of lace alumatones in that currently doesn't have a string ground or shielding.

 

[michaelwayneharwood]

That's surprising I haven't ran into any pickups that didn't require a bridge ground, it's also good news for my hollow body that I'm putting a set of lace alumatones in that currently doesn't have a string ground or shielding.

At the risk of sounding REALLY controversial I have found in my own builds that grounding the strings to be worth little - of course I prefer nylon tape wound strings that don't lend themselves to grounding. This bass will be loaded with nylon's, so it's a moot point. You could argue that this decision is short sighted due to the possibility of Ron deciding on traditional flats or rounds at some point in the future... I will more than likely ground at least one string witness point on Galadriel, and since that bass will feature a zero fret I will not need to ground all 5 bridges.

 

[Hamish MacCleod]

At the risk of sounding REALLY controversial I have found in my own builds that grounding the strings to be worth little - of course I prefer nylon tape wound strings that don't lend themselves to grounding. This bass will be loaded with nylon's, so it's a moot point. You could argue that this decision is short sighted due to the possibility of Ron deciding on traditional flats or rounds at some point in the future... I will more than likely ground at least one string witness point on Galadriel, and since that bass will feature a zero fret I will not need to ground all 5 bridges.

Nope... that is a reason to have more than one bass. Rhiannon will only ever have Roto 88's and Galadriel will wear TI Jazz rounds or TI Jazz flats. Michael, Rhiannon is looking remarkable! Can't wait to hear her.
Rondo

 

[Rôckhewer]

That's surprising I haven't ran into any pickups that didn't require a bridge ground, it's also good news for my hollow body that I'm putting a set of lace alumatones in that currently doesn't have a string ground or shielding.

All active EMG's do not require grounding, or shielding either. They even tell you in the instructions not to bother.
One reason among many why I dig'em!

This bass is looking fantastic Michael! Very fine work!

 

[michaelwayneharwood]

Thanks guys!

Tonight saw the pickup cavity routed, the headless tuners mounted, and the bridge cut down to just over an inch thick. Next steps are to get a headpiece cut out and shaped, and the fingerboard coated with CA glue. My goal is to get the basics finished this week so that I can get her into @rondodunbar's hands to do a final check on every thing before finish sanding and finishing.

 

[Rôckhewer]

the fingerboard coated with CA glue

Have you done this operation successfully on other fingerboards ?
I tried it on my fretless but the process was somewhat frustrating (hence the lack of representation on my build thread)
At first I was using "thick" CA... not quite jell... but not thin either.
I tried to spread it on with a doubled up business card... which sorta worked... but as it dried, it wrinkled up horribly.
Then I tried the "thin" and it seemed to dry better (thinner coats is key).
I am determined that if I could figure out a way to spray it on in thin coats....& maybe out in direct sunlight...that would work best.
But I can't imagine a way to prevent any spray equipment from getting clogged up immediately! Short of having acetone on hand to quickly flush the tip between coats. I'm not sure this would be an effective counter to clogging anyway. ....so......
Any thoughts?
Your experiences?....
Thanks.

 

[michaelwayneharwood]

Have you done this operation successfully on other fingerboards ?
I tried it on my fretless but the process was somewhat frustrating (hence the lack of representation on my build thread)
At first I was using "thick" CA... not quite jell... but not thin either.
I tried to spread it on with a doubled up business card... which sorta worked... but as it dried, it wrinkled up horribly.
Then I tried the "thin" and it seemed to dry better (thinner coats is key).
I am determined that if I could figure out a way to spray it on in thin coats....& maybe out in direct sunlight...that would work best.
But I can't imagine a way to prevent any spray equipment from getting clogged up immediately! Short of having acetone on hand to quickly flush the tip between coats. I'm not sure this would be an effective counter to clogging anyway. ....so......
Any thoughts?
Your experiences?....
Thanks.

I do have some experience with this, though I am not an expert. What I have found is thin coats of thin viscosity CA produce the best results. I will run a thin pair of lines up and down the fingerboard, and then use a paper towel to spread it evenly. I sand with some 300+ grit paper on a radius block every 5 coats and by the time you have 10 to 15 coats laid down it should be thick enough to start buffing it out. I *really* like this method for finger board coating as you can get a fingerboard done in a en evening's work, and it looks and plays very nice.

 

[michaelwayneharwood]

A trim router and a 1/4" straight bit make quick work of a nut slot, and the end of the neck was shaped in preparation for the headpiece. Things left to do on the neck are side dots, some finish sanding, a CA finish, and a headpiece. I will have it strung up by the weekend if work and life cooperates. I am thinking 3/8" thick walnut for the headpiece.

 

[Rôckhewer]

I do have some experience with this, though I am not an expert. What I have found is thin coats of thin viscosity CA produce the best results. I will run a thin pair of lines up and down the fingerboard, and then use a paper towel to spread it evenly. I sand with some 300+ grit paper on a radius block every 5 coats and by the time you have 10 to 15 coats laid down it should be thick enough to start buffing it out. I *really* like this method for finger board coating as you can get a fingerboard done in a en evening's work, and it looks and plays very nice.

That sounds like a good plan.
I will try that to "finish" the coats I already have on mine. It is about 85% covered, but I ended up breaking through at a couple small areas due to having to block sand too much to smooth out the texture created when it wrinkled.
Come to think of it.... my spray idea will most likely still lay it down too thick. ...even using thin CA ...And would still wrinkle upon drying.
Your method sounds like the old adage... slow but steady wins the race

 

[eightyearsapril]

I do have some experience with this, though I am not an expert. What I have found is thin coats of thin viscosity CA produce the best results. I will run a thin pair of lines up and down the fingerboard, and then use a paper towel to spread it evenly. I sand with some 300+ grit paper on a radius block every 5 coats and by the time you have 10 to 15 coats laid down it should be thick enough to start buffing it out. I *really* like this method for finger board coating as you can get a fingerboard done in a en evening's work, and it looks and plays very nice.

That's what I did on my build. I think I put about 15-20 coats down, however, but the idea was the same. While not professional-looking by any means, I'm very happy with how it came out.

 

[Scoops]

At the risk of sounding REALLY controversial I have found in my own builds that grounding the strings to be worth little - of course I prefer nylon tape wound strings that don't lend themselves to grounding.

If you don't ground your strings you run the chance of electrocuting your self. I did this once. I read an article (back in the 80's if I remember correctly) where some guy was saying that the ground wasn't necessary, and if you took out the ground, it would be like magic sauce and improve tone.

OK. I Did it.

Went to do sound check that night. Was playing, went to sing, my lips touched the microphone, everything turn white, and my but hit the ground.

I do understand that companies like EMG say you don't have to ground the bridge/strings. Don't know what the science is. I think it has something to do with the low output of the pups.

Whatever the case, I would look into this a little deeper if I were you. If you don't, you could add a whole new meaning to "Killer axe"

 

[JustForSport]

To be electrocuted, you have to be part of a circuit. If there is no circuit, there's no loop/circuit for the current to travel. EMG says a string/bridge ground is a danger- (because it creates a path for a charge from the mike to go to ground with you being a link).

 

[michaelwayneharwood]

If you don't ground your strings you run the chance of electrocuting your self. I did this once. I read an article (back in the 80's if I remember correctly) where some guy was saying that the ground wasn't necessary, and if you took out the ground, it would be like magic sauce and improve tone.

OK. I Did it.

Went to do sound check that night. Was playing, went to sing, my lips touched the microphone, everything turn white, and my but hit the ground.

I do understand that companies like EMG say you don't have to ground the bridge/strings. Don't know what the science is. I think it has something to do with the low output of the pups.

Whatever the case, I would look into this a little deeper if I were you. If you don't, you could add a whole new meaning to "Killer axe"

This bass will be strung with nylon tapewounds - they do not conduct electricity due to a plastic coating, and a bridge ground would not help.

 

[michaelwayneharwood]

That sounds like a good plan.
I will try that to "finish" the coats I already have on mine. It is about 85% covered, but I ended up breaking through at a couple small areas due to having to block sand too much to smooth out the texture created when it wrinkled.
Come to think of it.... my spray idea will most likely still lay it down too thick. ...even using thin CA ...And would still wrinkle upon drying.
Your method sounds like the old adage... slow but steady wins the race

Just to give credit where credit is due - I got the method from this thread. After some experimentation, and a desire to avoid the challenges I have read about in regards to epoxy coating.