Ric 4003 truss rods adjustment tips

[Mo Boogs]

I gotta 2018 Ric 4003 that I bought brand new late winter 2018. Winter 18/19 it needed a little minor tightening of the truss rods and the a hair of loosening spring 2019. FF to now and the rods need a little tightening. It seems a little tougher and slower reacting to the adjustments this year so I just want to make sure I’m doing this right. I leave the strings at normal tuned up tension, sit down, stand the bass up in front of me with my knee to the back of the bass/neck, pull the head stock a little and make my truss adjustments then. I noticed tightening changes it immediately but loosening seems more like a day or two to take effect. Does this sound about right?

 

[bobomatic]

Exactly. When you tighten it the rods act on the wood immediately... when you release some of that tension it takes a bit for the wood to settle into position. I’m going through this myself right now after installing some TI’s last night.

 

[GM60466]

let someone who knows what they are doing make the adjustment.

 

[bobomatic]

let someone who knows what they are doing make the adjustment.

Why? He’s doing it right. It’s not rocket science, any musician should be able to maintain their own instrument.

 

[msb]

Learning how to set up a bass to your preferences is just another aspect of learning to play .

 

[GIBrat51]

Why? He’s doing it right. It’s not rocket science, any musician should be able to maintain their own instrument.

Exactly so. RIC's Care and Maintenance Manual (which I just happen to have in front of me at the moment) says that, not only is manual adjustment/holding the neck in place with the truss rods the only method to use for pre-1984 models (hairpin truss rods), it's the preferred method for the newer Ricks as well. And that's exactly how I do truss rod adjustments on my 4001, 4003, and 330 guitar...

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Here's a decent tutorial on adjusting a 4001, but all of it applies to a 4003 as well. A lot of the basses have little to no clearance between the wood in the TRC pocket and the adjusting nuts, so you often see some unfortunate "home carpentry" in that area. Ric sells a TRC adjuster.... that doesn't fit a lot of basses. Most people have better luck with a long-shaft 1/4" nut driver. The key item that so many people seem unaware of is that trussrods are NOT designed to bend a neck, on any bass. They are designed to HOLD a position you have bent by hand by "helping it" in the direction you want it to go. Erlewhine from Stewmac agrees, and says so in some of his videos, but you see people on Youtube all the time, just merrily cranking away on the rods. Also, I never do more than 1/8 turn and let it settle for a little while, re-check relief, repeat until satisfied. Then check it again in a few days, it may well move again. They may be switching to a standard Double Action rod for new basses, so far it's only on the Al Cisneros AFAIK, but but maybe I missed a Facebook posting. Same technique woud still apply, you just have the option to dial it into backbow, which might straighten a severely bowed neck.

 

[Jeff Scott]

...not only is manual adjustment/holding the neck in place with the truss rods the only method to use for pre-1984 models (hairpin truss rods), it's the preferred method for the newer Ricks as well.

And, really, just about any other truss rod equipped instrument, too.

 

[GIBrat51]

And, really, just about any other truss rod equipped instrument, too.

Abso-frickin'-lutely right...

 

[Turnaround]

Much is made of the need to manually bend the neck and use the truss rod just to hold it there. On some basses it's entirely unnecessary - just adjust the truss rod. But it depends on the condition of the neck.

There are two circumstances when pre-bending the neck is necessary. First is if the truss rod is not substantial enough to do the job itself. There are a few brands where that is the case and they usually recommend bending the neck manually. The other case is where the neck is in a forward bow in relaxed position (no truss rod tension, no string tension). In both cases it's not advisable to put the entire load on the truss rod.

So what should you do? If you have a lot of experience you will know whether pre-bending is necessary. If not you can take the safe route (pre-bend) or take your chances. On average if you take a chance you will be OK. So you have to ask yourself one question "Do I feel lucky?" Well, do you, punk?