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Rickenbacker Rant

When I was a kid, I fell in love with how these basses looked - Royal blue with the checkerboard binding - THAT was the bass for me.

Then I played one.

If I ever get filthy rich enough to have a collection hanging on the way just to look at, I'll hunt down that blue/checkboard Ric - but it will likely stay on the wall.
 
Gonna be sending it in next week, I tried to move the switch today and it barely moves. Have to use way more force than necessary, feels like its catching on something on the inside. I plug it in and put it in the neck position and all I really get is crackling and popping. :( For those of you wondering yes I have tried using some deoxit on the switch. I've never heard of a switchcraft switch failing before.


I must have missed mention of the toggle difficult to move before this. Have you taken a look at it?
 
Gonna be sending it in next week, I tried to move the switch today and it barely moves. Have to use way more force than necessary, feels like its catching on something on the inside. I plug it in and put it in the neck position and all I really get is crackling and popping. :( For those of you wondering yes I have tried using some deoxit on the switch. I've never heard of a switchcraft switch failing before.

Please keep us posted. Are you returning it to the dealer or the factory?
 
When I was a kid, I fell in love with how these basses looked - Royal blue with the checkerboard binding - THAT was the bass for me.

Then I played one.

If I ever get filthy rich enough to have a collection hanging on the way just to look at, I'll hunt down that blue/checkboard Ric - but it will likely stay on the wall.

That's funny, I always thought Rics were weird and ugly looking.

Then I played one.
 
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Did you include the original switch. They might have an issue if they open it up and find that its already been changed once. I don't know many companies that will warranty a replacement part even if the original was defective from the factory.
I've been in contact with them they'll send me a UPS call tag via e-mail on monday, they are aware of the situation as is. Shouldn't be any issues there.
 
I'm no expert on Rics because I've only owned two 4003s.

The 1992 version that I acquired slightly used is, IMO, a pretty dang good and usable bass, I still own it, but I admit I don't play it much anymore.

The 2011 or so version that I owned for a month or two was not even close to the same sound or feel, so I don't own it anymore.

This is not a scientific comparison. Just my anecdote.
 
I've been in contact with them they'll send me a UPS call tag via e-mail on monday, they are aware of the situation as is. Shouldn't be any issues there.

Here is one area where you don't get this kind of support from any other name-brand non-boutique manufacturer. I hope they make everything right for you as they have for many other Ric owners.

As for the rest of your concerns (switch aside), I hate to say it, but this is the world of the Rickenbacker 4003 player and enthusiast. It's either a minor annoyance and small price to pay, or a deal-breaker.

Good luck, please let us know how Ric customer support treats you.
 
I called up the shop and Rickenbacker today. The shop I bought it from wants to diagnose the problem, I was talking to the guy on the phone and he said the best course of action if its the switch is to send me a new one and install it on the bass. I told him I had no experience soldering but he assured me I would be more than capable and wouldn't screw anything up... o_O

You mean Rick told you to install the switch yourself? If so, that's the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard. Soldering is NOT something you can just do. It's really easy to mess up, or even damage a part. I personally HATE soldering (shaky hands) and avoid it like the plague.

(Not that it's related, but it reminded me of one of my favorite "learning experience" stories, about a young luthier [who shall remain nameless] who was refretting a 50's era gold-top. He was heating the frets with a soldering iron [to help pull glued in frets, which I don't think Gibson did back in the day, but whatever,] was chatting with his bud and got distracted. The fret got hot. Really hot. And as some of you may know, celluloid is EXTREMELY flammable. Fwoomph. In an instant, all the binding burned to a crisp. I have no idea how he dug himself out of that one.)

But back on topic, the fact that Rickenbacker doesn't include any adjustment tools is absolutely ridiculous, especially since they use such a dated style. I've unboxed literally thousands of instruments (unfortunately not mine - working retail) and I can't recall a single instrument that didn't come with at least one allen wrench. We had so many we'd just toss them into a big box and give them away for free. And don't give me no crap about allen wrenches being so much cheaper; Pedulla includes a nut driver with a[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]. I'm sure Rick can afford to toss in a 50 cent wrench.
 
You mean Rick told you to install the switch yourself? If so, that's the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard. Soldering is NOT something you can just do. It's really easy to mess up, or even damage a part. I personally HATE soldering (shaky hands) and avoid it like the plague.

(Not that it's related, but it reminded me of one of my favorite "learning experience" stories, about a young luthier [who shall remain nameless] who was refretting a 50's era gold-top. He was heating the frets with a soldering iron [to help pull glued in frets, which I don't think Gibson did back in the day, but whatever,] was chatting with his bud and got distracted. The fret got hot. Really hot. And as some of you may know, celluloid is EXTREMELY flammable. Fwoomph. In an instant, all the binding burned to a crisp. I have no idea how he dug himself out of that one.)

But back on topic, the fact that Rickenbacker doesn't include any adjustment tools is absolutely ridiculous, especially since they use such a dated style. I've unboxed literally thousands of instruments (unfortunately not mine - working retail) and I can't recall a single instrument that didn't come with at least one allen wrench. We had so many we'd just toss them into a big box and give them away for free. And don't give me no crap about allen wrenches being so much cheaper; Pedulla includes a nut driver with a[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]. I'm sure Rick can afford to toss in a 50 cent wrench.

It was the shop that told me I could probably solder it myself, I probably should have worded that paragraph better. We were trying to figure out how to do this without me having to spend money to ship it back to the shop again. That is until they offered to pay the shipping themselves.

I'll post the results after I ship it and and get it back, should all go very smooth.
 
I love Rickenbackers ...

But I hate ...

- the bridge / tailpiece / mechanical mute
- the pickup cover
- and most of I hate that they can't seem to make a good 5 string bass!

I'm with you on this. As a matter of fact, apart from the body & neck, input jack-plate, and truss rod & cover, there is nothing on a Ric that I wouldn't replace.

I say that having owned two 4001s.
 
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Lot's of good points made above. Here's my 2c worth.
I have owned a Mapleglo '98 4003 for about 6 years now, but have a good number of other basses- Fenders and Gibsons mainly (some new/ some vintage), but I also have a Stingray and an Asat as well (Oh and my old Ibanez V)- so I have a few to compare it to and am not a Ric above all else type of guy.
I actually mainly gig a P Bass (a maple board 73 or an 82 Fullerton 57 RI) with the Asat as a second bass- they suit what I am involved in best. I find the Ric a bit unfocussed and wooly- probably just me- but the P Basses and the Asat are so easy.
I was after a Ric for the individual tone. Not many (read- no) new ones available in Australia- I think the distributer for Australia is in Japan and no one was importing them.
So I went the second hand route, sourced from the US from an intermediary in Australia- when it arrived it was as described (pristine, no fret wear, original case in perfect order etc) but one thing wasn't mentioned- a twist in the headstock and top 2 frets down on the treble side. The set up was quite high when I got it and the truss rods slacked right off- I suspect in an attempt to hide the twist. Foolishly, I bought the it just needs a set up after the change in climate line and took the bass I discovered the issues over about the next week, but it was too late. The seller refused to acknowledge the issue. You get people like that anyywhere!
In a way it was a "blessing" because it made me get to know the bass very well trying to correct the issues. Here's where it relates to the thread- I discovered one of the truss rods and the spacer thingy were not correctly installed and I think applied a twist to the neck- looked like from new to me- I may be wrong, but that is how it looked. The total lack of fret wear and general body wear also support this, as does the pristine case- I think it sat unused for a long time.
I sourced new truss rods (from England) and installed them and the spacer correctly. They now keep the board quite level from the first fret and she sets up and intonates beautifully- plays like a dream, sounds like a Ric should, but there is still some minor twist from about the first fret and onto the headstock.
I have also done the push/ pull pot/ cap mod and replaced the input jack assembly and switch (also had to source parts from England). I took off the bridge pickup cover and installed a treble bezel- helps a lot with anchoring your thumb- recommended. The slab like top of the body doesn't worry me- I play an Asat and Telecaster basses as well.
After 14 years there is only minimal tail lift. All in all, she is a good very playable bass. I will say I have never put so much work into another bass as this Ric to get it right.
As for neck stability- I live in Queensland with an almost tropical climate and the neck does move a little in the wet season, but not a lot. I use a 1/4 inch socket (no filing required) with an extension to do the rods- they are very responsive and so don't need a lot of adjustment to affect correction. I set it up almost flat- it plays and sounds better that way.
As for adjustment tools being included - the couple of Fenders I have bought recently have included them, although the wrench included (NIB) with the FSR Antigua Jazz was the incorrect size for the bullet truss. Gibson's on the other hand- I have bought three new ones from the Australian importers outlet in the last 5 years and only the first one had the wrench (great little wrenches they are too)- I asked about it with subsequent ones and was told me Gibson didn't include them anymore but they could sell me one for $5- who knows?
Would I buy another Ric? No, I don't need more than one. I would exchange this for a midnight blue,as I think they are beautiful- but not sight unseen.
There seemed to be a few new 4003s on US eBay when I checked just now- so what's the story with the back order? Are those ones that have been sitting in shops for a while?.
 
I owned 4 rics, a midnight blue 4003, a fireglo 4003, a translucent blue 4004, and a fireglo 360. All I own now is the 4004 translucent blue. The. Reason I sold them all is
1. I bought a dingwall
2. Moved on to five strings
3. My translucent blue turned pink. Rickenbacker basically said I did something to the finish. I said all I did was take it out the case and play it. It also has a dead spot on the g string. I kept it because my wife said she liked it. I pulled it out from under the bed after a few months of it sitting there. It was still in tune and played very comfortable.

The others I owned were flawless even the fireglo that I dropped 2 weeks after getting it right before we were set to play. Strap lock failed (probably my fault) and fell on to my pedal board putting some serious gashes. It stayed in tune and played very well immediately after the drop.

Calling CS is a pain, great instruments if you never have to deal with them for problems. Just like anything else you will get a lemon here or there. Again the only reason I sold 3 of mine was to fund my dingwall.
 
I love my 4003 Ric. Bought it a few months ago and took it straight to my guitar doctor for its first setup and I got to say it plays beautifully, stays in tune, action is very low, and it sounds fantastic. The only problem I'm having is that I have to find a way to re-balance it so that the weight of it is distributed evenly rather than resting solely on my left shoulder. I've read a few posts where some were referring to this as 'neck dive' and I disagree with that. It balances perfectly, just in a more horizontal position. The fulcrum of that balance for me is right on top of my left shoulder and has to be changed (yeah back problems). It might take installing two new strap buttons to correct it but I'm cool with making this bass as comfortable as I can for me.
 
I love my 4003 Ric. Bought it a few months ago and took it straight to my guitar doctor for its first setup and I got to say it plays beautifully, stays in tune, action is very low, and it sounds fantastic. The only problem I'm having is that I have to find a way to re-balance it so that the weight of it is distributed evenly rather than resting solely on my left shoulder. I've read a few posts where some were referring to this as 'neck dive' and I disagree with that. It balances perfectly, just in a more horizontal position. The fulcrum of that balance for me is right on top of my left shoulder and has to be changed (yeah back problems). It might take installing two new strap buttons to correct it but I'm cool with making this bass as comfortable as I can for me.

I have one of these and it works very well for me:

http://www.gruvgear.com/duostrap