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Roscoe Beck Forum?

I finally got my RBV back from the shop (2 weeks later, he didn't tell me he was going on vacation!!) and i must say i'm still not super happy with the setup. I took it to my main guy first (about a month or so ago), and i wasn't satisfied with his response as to why i couldn't get a lower action. I took it to George at Bass San Diego for a 2nd opinion. He got it lower, but the notes would begin to fret out around the 15th fret. After some failed attempts at getting it right myself i took it back to my main repair guy.

I know that this bass was stored away for 8 years. I assumed it would take some time to get back to "normal". I guess what i'm getting at is, have any of you been able to get a good, low action on your RBV? From the fact that i have been told by 2 separate folks that the neck is straight, the truss rod works, I'm at a loss for what could be the problem. Am i just being overly critical? I'm hoping it just still needs some time to settle in.
 
I guess what i'm getting at is, have any of you been able to get a good, low action on your RBV? From the fact that i have been told by 2 separate folks that the neck is straight, the truss rod works, I'm at a loss for what could be the problem. Am i just being overly critical? I'm hoping it just still needs some time to settle in.

It sounds like the neck angle is the problem, not the relief. To me anyway. But to answer your first question, I have been amazed at my RBV's neck. It's really unusual for a Fender (in my experience) because it is capable of a Ric-like low action/straight neck without fretting out to any noticeable degree. Again the neck angle is key there so maybe mine was just setup very well before it came to me. Anyway, fear not, it should be fixable. I'm afraid your main guy may not be worth his salt if he can't adjust a neck heel to suit your needs though.
 
It sounds like the neck angle is the problem, not the relief. To me anyway. But to answer your first question, I have been amazed at my RBV's neck. It's really unusual for a Fender (in my experience) because it is capable of a Ric-like low action/straight neck without fretting out to any noticeable degree. Again the neck angle is key there so maybe mine was just setup very well before it came to me. Anyway, fear not, it should be fixable. I'm afraid your main guy may not be worth his salt if he can't adjust a neck heel to suit your needs though.

That's what i was thinking. I'm not against taking a drive to get it worked on, i'll look around for other options. I have the newer Modern Player Jazz V (a decent mock of the RBV pickup system i must say) and i can get that thing right where i want it.
 
A couple of possible solutions come to mind, here. First, shimming the neck. That might give you the angle you're looking for.

Another possible solution? Have you tried a graduated winding string? That might give you a little more flexibility at the bridge in terms of fine tuning your string height. But I don't think it's likely to help with that issue you're having at the upper frets.
 
I've been noodling like crazy on the RBV I got a couple weeks ago, really impressed with the varieties of sounds and the overall feel and playability of it. I've been switching between series and parallel between the neck and bridge pups and haven't noticed much of a difference in sound other than the series is much louder. The tone between the 2, once I either lower or raise the volume to match sounds pretty much identical. Am I missing something here?
 
I'm confused, are you saying series sounds like parallel or bridge sounds like neck?

Series and parallel are both missing something from single coil, but series adds in a lot of low-mid punch which sets it apart. As for the two positions I hear a huge difference on my RBV! It's much like a Jazz.
 
I'm confused, are you saying series sounds like parallel or bridge sounds like neck?

Series and parallel are both missing something from single coil, but series adds in a lot of low-mid punch which sets it apart. As for the two positions I hear a huge difference on my RBV! It's much like a Jazz.

When I solo each pup, play series then Prll., they sound the same only the series is louder, only diff. I do the same in both positions. For ex., I'll play the neck pups in series, turn the volume down, then play them in prll. Both positions sound the same. I'll move to the bridge, do the same, and the same thing, no tonal difference, just volume. Did you ever sell your guitar?
 
When I solo each pup, play series then Prll., they sound the same only the series is louder, only diff. I do the same in both positions. For ex., I'll play the neck pups in series, turn the volume down, then play them in prll. Both positions sound the same. I'll move to the bridge, do the same, and the same thing, no tonal difference, just volume. Did you ever sell your guitar?

Series should bump your volume up. It's not really a "tonal" thing, but should add some lower midrange girth to your tone. If that makes sense.. It's the same with most humbuckers that are wired series/parallel if i'm not mistaken.
 
Notorious RBV E-string buzz/taughtness issue SOLVED!!

ImageUploadedByTalkBass1388512898.184041.jpg

Easily the most terrifying thing I have ever done in my life. I just took a power drill to the headstock of my most prized possession. But I have wanted to do this since 1997 when I bought the bass! That E has needed something, I almost put a long bar-style string tree, a là Sadowsky, across all 5 strings but the close proximity of the B string tuner to the nut made me worry about that solution. Adding a typical round Fender-style string tree wouldn't fit (although I've seen some other Fender models designed that way) and the Fender "stealth" tuner with string tree built in wouldn't be right, these RBV tuners are a matte finish hipshot ultralight, completely different than the standard chrome Fender tuners.

As luck would have it, I found these bass string trees on the STEWMAC site a few weeks ago! I mulled over ordering them but since they're like $2.50 apiece I just went for it. After an hour of painstaking measuring and prep (which should have taken all of 2 minutes but I was too nervous, as I'm not really one to mod things on my own) I drilled, tuned up, and BAM!!!

Best E-string since sliced bread.

I don't know why this isn't standard spec for all basses that don't have a tilt-back headstock!
 
Only downside is seeing the holes from where the original string tree was installed

(Don't mind the awkward discoloration of the nut lol! I have NO idea what that's about! Actually I might have that replaced with a brass nut...)
 
When I solo each pup, play series then Prll., they sound the same only the series is louder, only diff. I do the same in both positions. For ex., I'll play the neck pups in series, turn the volume down, then play them in prll. Both positions sound the same. I'll move to the bridge, do the same, and the same thing, no tonal difference, just volume. Did you ever sell your guitar?

Both humbucking modes lose a similar single coil character in tone. But series adds volume and low mids. That's my take on it. They're different enough to be pretty noticeable in my mind, but the volume difference you note is part of it. Still I also hear more low mids. Never sold my RBV yet--I get lots of offers but none are too serious. I missed selling it to you because you bought another one before I saw your message, but it's probably for the best because I have no experience shipping guitars to Canada. :)

Notorious RBV E-string buzz/taughtness issue SOLVED!!

View attachment 383417

Easily the most terrifying thing I have ever done in my life. I just took a power drill to the headstock of my most prized possession. But I have wanted to do this since 1997 when I bought the bass! That E has needed something, I almost put a long bar-style string tree, a là Sadowsky, across all 5 strings but the close proximity of the B string tuner to the nut made me worry about that solution. Adding a typical round Fender-style string tree wouldn't fit (although I've seen some other Fender models designed that way) and the Fender "stealth" tuner with string tree built in wouldn't be right, these RBV tuners are a matte finish hipshot ultralight, completely different than the standard chrome Fender tuners.

As luck would have it, I found these bass string trees on the STEWMAC site a few weeks ago! I mulled over ordering them but since they're like $2.50 apiece I just went for it. After an hour of painstaking measuring and prep (which should have taken all of 2 minutes but I was too nervous, as I'm not really one to mod things on my own) I drilled, tuned up, and BAM!!!

Best E-string since sliced bread.

I don't know why this isn't standard spec for all basses that don't have a tilt-back headstock!

Glad that worked for you, but I don't have an issue on my bass. I guess it could depend on the string or how many wraps there are around the post? That said, if Fender wanted to play it safe, they should have had a tree for the top four strings--or moved the tree to the middle three and let the G be compressed by the wound angle, as the tuning peg is closer to the nut.
 
Yeah I have always just wound the E all the way down low on the post, it created a very slight downward angle over the nut, but never quite enough. I have heard this to be a problem typical of the RBV, and I know it especially was a problem on mine, and I am stoked to have solved it!
 
Notorious RBV E-string buzz/taughtness issue SOLVED!!

View attachment 383417

Easily the most terrifying thing I have ever done in my life. I just took a power drill to the headstock of my most prized possession. But I have wanted to do this since 1997 when I bought the bass! That E has needed something, I almost put a long bar-style string tree, a là Sadowsky, across all 5 strings but the close proximity of the B string tuner to the nut made me worry about that solution. Adding a typical round Fender-style string tree wouldn't fit (although I've seen some other Fender models designed that way) and the Fender "stealth" tuner with string tree built in wouldn't be right, these RBV tuners are a matte finish hipshot ultralight, completely different than the standard chrome Fender tuners.

As luck would have it, I found these bass string trees on the STEWMAC site a few weeks ago! I mulled over ordering them but since they're like $2.50 apiece I just went for it. After an hour of painstaking measuring and prep (which should have taken all of 2 minutes but I was too nervous, as I'm not really one to mod things on my own) I drilled, tuned up, and BAM!!!

Best E-string since sliced bread.

I don't know why this isn't standard spec for all basses that don't have a tilt-back headstock!

This is cool! Mine has the buzz. My repair guy wanted to mill a bar that would cover the E-G strings but using the original holes so that he didn't have to drill new ones. I may take him up on it. Nice work though, i bet that makes a huge difference.

On a side note - I opted for string-thru-body when i had it setup, and i ordered the extra-long D'addario's like i was told to do. I'm wondering if this may be part of why i'm having setup issues? How do you guys have yours strung? Thru-bridge or thru-body? I still feel a shim may be necessary.
 
I string B and E through the tailpiece and G, D and A through the body. The thicker strings don't take as well to really severe break angles in my experience and that can cause weird things like core detachment to accelerate -- or that's my best guess as to why it results in funky setup problems occasionally.
 
I finally got my RBV feeling right (setup-wise) and got to play in a band context today.

:hyper::bassist::hyper:

This thing is a beauty! I can't believe this bass wasn't played for so many years. And even before it was stored away it was hardly played at all. There is ZERO fretwear, and the neck is butter. I played primarily in full-humbucking mode with the tone down about 25%. Even my guitarist, who usually doesn't pay much attention to my tone (he normally just makes sure i play his twisted compositions correctly :p), was giving me compliments about how great it sounded in the mix.
 
So a weird thing happened after my jam session tonight. I was cleaning my RBV and went to put it back in the case, and the intonation screw for the G string (the one that is threaded through the back of the bridge into the saddle) just came out on its own. Had it not hit the hardwood floor i wouldn't have heard it. I was able to get it back in place, but hardly any of the actual screw went into the saddle.

Have any of you had to get a longer intonation screw for your G string saddle? Should I? I tune 1/2 step down, i'm not sure if that has something to do with it.
 
I'm interested to hear any feedback on that, as I have had issues with my bride sometimes (albeit in other ways, never the intonation screw)

Seems like that bridge, and nice as it looks brand new, seems to be the only flaw with this bass when you're talking long-term ownership. I've often thought about replacing it.

Bought my RBV new in 97, and I swear there's something weird about the break-angle on the bridge (I always just string through the bridge) cause I will literally break a taper-core B or E string like it's my job (and I have a VERY light, flamenco-style right hand touch). Never had problems with non-tapered strings, though.

Any out there with an RBV with an aftermarket bridge?