Wow, haven’t seen that J/mm in a while. It might be my #3 favorite Roscoe. Still looking for my quilt 5JJ Custom that I stupidly sold.
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Roscoe Club
- Thread starter JOME77
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Wow, haven’t seen that J/mm in a while. It might be my #3 favorite Roscoe. Still looking for my quilt 5JJ Custom that I stupidly sold.
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selling my roscoe SKB 3006 x2. Please check my thread out if interested and DM me. Thank you!
https://www.talkbass.com/classifieds/2024-roscoe-skb-3006-cocobolo.1663924/
https://www.talkbass.com/classifieds/2023-roscoe-skb-3006-quilted-maple.1663923/
https://www.talkbass.com/classifieds/2024-roscoe-skb-3006-cocobolo.1663924/
https://www.talkbass.com/classifieds/2023-roscoe-skb-3006-quilted-maple.1663923/
Wow! Beautiful basses!
Totally love that cocobolo top. Keith doesn't make many basses with alder bodies. Definitely one of my favorite body woods.
What is it about the wenge neck that you don't like Tom The ones that I've owned had a wonder tone. Is it the open grain feel of the neck or the sound?
The reason that I ask is I've sanded and oiled several of my Roscoe necks to get a smoother feel. The neck finish on Roscoes tend to get a bit shinny and sometimes tacky as they age. Sanding with a progression of sandpaper (low to high grit) really makes them feel smooth again.
It's mostly the open pore texture, especially from frets 3-7 where I play most of the songs we do at church. I'm pretty hesitant to do any mods on the bass so sanding the neck makes me a little nervous. Resale value, blah blah blah.
Totally understand. Of course if you sanded it properly it would feel so much better and it wouldn’t devalue the bass at all. It would also look new again and not have all the shiny areas on it (and you wouldn’t feel the grain as you currently do).
Keith seals them well prior to spraying the finish and the sealer penetrates deep into the wood.
If you decide to keep the bass let me know and I’ll provide the progression of sand paper that I use.
Gotcha. Still up in the air about the bass and I'll let you know about how gritty to get.
Played a gig on the Roscoe fretless, and a friend quipped, "You know it's a good day when Adam brings the fretless". That made me feel good. Thanks, Roscoe!
More knobs! You might've seen this if you follow Roscoeheads over on FershBerk. I'm not satisfied with the Maple ones with the Roscoe stripe. The idea of doing the stripe was the whole reason I got into turning. Feels like I'm improving my technique with each attempt, and developing a better process. Today, I finished these Burl Myrtle on Macassar Ebony with a Cherry binding. I recently restrung this CenturyFL with GHS Pressurewounds and I'm really digging the sound. Only other pressure/ground/half rounds I've tried were D'addario groundwounds and I was not a fan. These GHS have some bite! -but with minimal finger string-zing.
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I just picked up this beauty on a trade here on TB.
Build quality is amazing!
It has given me ideas for what I would want in a custom built Roscoe in the future.
Build quality is amazing!
It has given me ideas for what I would want in a custom built Roscoe in the future.
I just picked up this beauty on a trade here on TB.
Build quality is amazing!
It has given me ideas for what I would want in a custom built Roscoe in the future.
View attachment 7150048
Very nice, enjoy that beauty!
Mark
For those of you who have a purpleheart fretboard, what do you use to condition it? Fret Doctor conditioner?
Ive used 2 things: a nice furniture wood 'lemon-scented' mineral oil, and Dunlop 65, which is about the same thing. I'm not an expert, but after 10 years of caring for the spalted purpleheart (and 30 years of various fretboard species, turned wood products, and charcuterie care), nothing has gone wrong/rancid/wrecked when I use mineral oil. Spalted purpleheart still seems as purple as ever, and hasnt browned/aged like some from some other photos I've seen (non-Roscoe). Food grade for the charcuterie, of course.
With what has everyone else been cleaning their fretboards?
I use Music Nomad F-one oil. I’ve used it on ebony, wenge, Pau Ferro and Purple Heart and it works great.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/de...5aAvWUMzCvBuoWeNif98myYYiGg7mWoBoCQrsQAvD_BwE
Ah, yes I have that one, too. After a little research, this one has 'ultra-refined' tree and seed oils, and has no mineral oil, I believe. Had it for 4 years, so probably used it several times by now. Forgot about it until Joe mentioned it.
Favor to ask for those with a Roscoe 6 (I have an LG3006): what are the widths down the neck from the nut, 12th fret, and the end of the fretboard? I have a wide neck model and have sort of gone back and forth on whether I should have gone with the standard width neck instead. I'm measuring 18mm at the bridge so it seems like the wide neck option is mainly about it having less taper and more width at the nut. Can someone give me some measurements of theirs? I wasn't sure if the standard-width necks were any different across the various body shapes.
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Is the 18mm string-spacing bridge the stock bridge on your LG6, or one downsized from original 19mm? Standard neck dimensions likely follow the standards for the specific spacing. I think that wider Roscoe necks result for use with wider string spacing, such as 19mm. However, since Roscoe builds to customer specs, maybe someone ordered a bass with non standard neck dimensions, such as wide taper 18mm, or narrow taper 18mm? ( calling @JOME77 )
Anyway, here are some measured neck widths from a Century 6 with 18mm string spacing:
55mm, or approx 2-1/8" at nut
80mm, or approx 3-1/8" at 12th fret
93mm, or approx 3-5/8' at end of fingerboard extension just past 24th fret
Hope this helps : )
Anyway, here are some measured neck widths from a Century 6 with 18mm string spacing:
55mm, or approx 2-1/8" at nut
80mm, or approx 3-1/8" at 12th fret
93mm, or approx 3-5/8' at end of fingerboard extension just past 24th fret
Hope this helps : )
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Thank you, yes that does help! When I spec'd the build with Keith I asked for a little more room down at the nut since I've had some 6s before that have felt a little cramped there. I didn't specifically ask for 19mm at the bridge, but it looks like it would be easy to do so. The saddles have a lot of room to go wider but it currently has good symmetry with respect to the fingerboard and it's sitting right at 18mm at the bridge.
My neck dimensions are almost identical to yours. Here are mine.
String spacing at nut: 9.0 mm
Nut width: 55.5 mm
12th fret: 80.0 mm
24th fret: 92.5 mm (EOF 92.6 mm)
Bridge string width (center to center): 93.5 mm
Bridge plate width: 124.0 mm
Very interesting! I'm certain Keith didn't overlook it because he made mention of it when he posted its completion in the Roscoe FB group.
My neck dimensions are almost identical to yours. Here are mine.
String spacing at nut: 9.0 mm
Nut width: 55.5 mm
12th fret: 80.0 mm
24th fret: 92.5 mm (EOF 92.6 mm)
Bridge string width (center to center): 93.5 mm
Bridge plate width: 124.0 mm
Very interesting! I'm certain Keith didn't overlook it because he made mention of it when he posted its completion in the Roscoe FB group.
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