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Roscoe Club

Looks like it's been pretty much covered now.
I will add that the Signature also has the pearl "R" on the head stock and the neck volute under the nut area.

Although a one or two Signatures were made with a top wood laminate on the backside of the head stock (as well as the top side) when Keith ran out of pearl material for the "R".

My newest Signature, built 2014, has the laminate on the backside or the headstock and the recessed control knobs. I think the volute is standard on the custom now.

Mark
 
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^ the volute is indeed standard on the custom now. For a while the recessed knobs were too (although I don't remember seeing that on all of newer ones; not sure how that one went over). I know my 2013 Roscoe is a Custom and it has the volute.
 
Not sure if anyone at Roscoe is posting there regularly though.
Too soon to know if it is 'regular' yet, but this was posted yesterday...
Good morning Roscoe fans. This is Rik, production manager and guru of all things electronic here. Once a week I will be giving you tips on how to maintain your Roscoe bass. First up is to introduce a new finish here we are offering. Dragon Eye burst (See photo). This is my T5. This finish is available on our Standard, standard plus and custom models.
dragon.jpg
 
Too soon to know if it is 'regular' yet, but this was posted yesterday...

View attachment 2930865

Cool! I know Rik told me that he was slowly but surely taking over Gard’s duties. Super nice and knowledgeable guy. I didn’t realize that this was his second tour of duty at Roscoe. Lots of Roscoe knowledge between his ears!
 
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I think I've been bitten by the Mod bug!! :nailbiting: Now I want to install 3-way mini switches in my Spanish Cedar fretless!!! Somebody stop me!!!

You’re not going to get me to stop you from doing it. That would give you some nice options to choose from (SC/Series/Parallel). Be careful where you drill the switch holes though. Some areas of the cavity would have to be routed more (deeper) for the threaded part of the switch to come through the body (and still get a nut on it).
 
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You’re not going to get me to stop you from doing it. That would give you some nice options to choose from (SC/Series/Parallel). Be careful where you drill the switch holes though. Some areas of the cavity would have to be routed more (deeper) for the threaded part of the switch to come through the body (and still get a nut on it).

:nailbiting: :wideyed:
 
Looks like Perry Richardson, new Stryper bassist is getting a couple Roscoe Classics.

View attachment 2931029


I didn’t know that they we’re still together! They were a totally “over the top” Christian band back in the early 80’s. I wasn’t sure what to make of them.
Crazy paint job on the Classic Roscoe! Classic Stryper yel/blk on a Classic Roscoe.
 
I think my strings are shot. Usually use DR Hi Beams. Swamp ash with bart electronics. Might want to try something different for a change. Suggestions? Don’t want anything too “middy” as my bass and amp are fairly “middy” already.
 
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Hi Steve. In the DR lineup, the Hi Beams (or Fat Beams) are most scooped with less mids. Lo Riders, Pure Blues, and Sun Beams tending toward more of that present mids. Especially the nickel Lo Riders. Stainless Lo Riders might be an option.

I really like Pedulla stainless. Excellent string. The B, E, A, and D are all tapered.

Have you tried the standard D'Addario XL's?
 

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