Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Roscoe Club
- Thread starter JOME77
- Start date
the knob could be just touching the nut of the pot . I would raise the knob up a hair and see if it gets smooth again .
New Roscoe...as well as try raising the knob and retightening.
Sometimes tightening the screw will bend a split shaft pot and cause the knob to rub.
Well, the knob isn’t rubbing physically o the bass. I took off the control cover and saw nothing obvious to me. It doesn’t make any sound thru the amp when I turn it. It’s annoying but that seems to be all. I suppose it needs to be replaced but I don’t know anyone here that I’d trust with this bass to do it.
I wish shipping wasn’t so damn expensive I’d just send it on for a check up, pot replacement and maybe a Plek.
I wish shipping wasn’t so damn expensive I’d just send it on for a check up, pot replacement and maybe a Plek.
Don’t ship a bass to replace a pot- that’s a pretty simple fix.
When you turn the shaft without the knob on, does it still feel stiff/like it’s rubbing?
The pot doesn’t look bent? Does it scratch or crackle when plugged in and you turn it?
Far as I can tell it looks straight. No noise when playing and I turn it. Used it last night atvrehearsal and went from neck to bridge a few times. No issues sound wise.
I am NOT a technician or anything, but I’d try giving it a blast of deoxit and then turn it a few times. Might be some grit or dirt in there that will get cleaned out by that.
Which preamp is it? Any competent technician should be able to swap that pot out in about 5 minutes, regardless of the usual Roscoe (Bart or Aggie) preamps.
The reality is that sometimes, it's more difficult than that.
I recall the volume pot in my 6 being a challenge for a while.
First, it needs a fairly deep threaded collar to get through the top.
And it was a smaller than 'normal' diameter - I don't recall the measurements but the subthread was here a couple hundred pages back...
Yes, I ignored all the people who told me to just drill the hole bigger, and Gard had no such parts in stock.
Someone volunteered a couple from their private stash, which I took advantage of, and I found an offshore source via EBay that also came through with some.
Part swappage - 5 minutes. Part sourcing - several weeks. (Traditional sources like DigiKey and Mouser turned up nothing...)
My suggestion - remove and measure every important aspect of the pot. Hole diameter, shaft length (too long is OK if you can work a Dremel or a hacksaw) and threaded depth. Then find an electrically matching pot with the needed physical mounting characteristics.
Deoxit seems to have done the trick. Smooth as all the rest again.
Now to head home and plug it in and make sure all is still well.
Now to head home and plug it in and make sure all is still well.
Yep. The saying “parts are parts” just doesn't apply to bass and guitar preamps. If it can go wrong, it usually does.
Unless you get a replacement part from the OEM. And even that can go south if the OEM has made a running change that affects form, fit or function (Which has burnt me more than a few times).
Glad the tuner cleaner fixed it for you Steve.
Last edited:
Yep. The saying “parts are parts” just doen’t Apply to bass and guitar preamps. If it can go wrong, it usually does.
Unless you get a replacement part from the OEM. And even that can go south if the OEM has made a running change that affects form, fit or function. Which has burnt me more than a few times.
Many years ago I had replaced the electronics in an old Spector with EMGs when the preamp went bad. Fast forward to about five years ago and I wanted to set it back up with the preamp again. A real one from Spector was too expensive and I found out that Mighty-Mite made a clone of it and it was much cheaper. Installed it fine and within 5 minutes the volume pot shaft came out in my hand. No biggie I'll just tell them this one was defective and I'll send me another. Well apparently it was the last one on the planet and it took weeks for them to dig up another one.
Yeah, feels like new and sounds great.Glad the tuner cleaner fixed it for you Steve.
Apologize if this question has been asked/answered before, I haven't ready through all 500 pages of this thread, and I couldn't find it via search.
It seems as though Roscoe basses ship with special adjustment tools, but I purchased mine used, and those weren't included. Are they proprietary sizes or anything like that, that must be ordered directly from Roscoe, or are they standard stuff that can be purchased at a hardware store?
Thanks!
It seems as though Roscoe basses ship with special adjustment tools, but I purchased mine used, and those weren't included. Are they proprietary sizes or anything like that, that must be ordered directly from Roscoe, or are they standard stuff that can be purchased at a hardware store?
Thanks!
They're not special...
Truss rod is 9/64" - Hipshot bridge saddle adjustment inhex screws are 1/16"
I got my set at Lowes for about $10.
Depending on how the trussrod notch is made in your individual body, you may need a shorter 'leg' on the Allen wrench; mine didn't...
