Can you post a link that that set up thread? Can’t find it, but I’m on my phone...
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Roscoe Club
- Thread starter JOME77
- Start date
This is what I copied on my phone that I reference when I do setups.
Typically, I "sight" along the neck, using the string on each side as a reference. A properly set up neck will appear to be almost parallel to the string, dropping just very slightly from the nut to the last fret. If you see it rising up to the string in the middle, then dropping away toward the end of the fingerboard, there isn't enough relief. If you see it dropping away in the middle, then "rising" toward the end of the fingerboard, it has too much relief. For some players, particularly those with a "heavy hand", a bit of relief in the middle of the neck is good, to allow for the larger travel of the string when it is struck with great force.
If you are getting "buzz" in the middle to lower frets, you don't have enough relief, typically. To get that corrected, you need to loosen the nut on the trussrod. If you have really high action in the middle to high frets, you may have too much relief in the neck, and need to tighten the nut on the trussrod
Tighten the nut to tighten the rod and straighten the neck.
Loosen the nut to loosen the rod and allow relief in the neck
Right to tighten, left to loosen
If you remove bow from the neck, it has the side-effect of making the action lower.
Typically, I "sight" along the neck, using the string on each side as a reference. A properly set up neck will appear to be almost parallel to the string, dropping just very slightly from the nut to the last fret. If you see it rising up to the string in the middle, then dropping away toward the end of the fingerboard, there isn't enough relief. If you see it dropping away in the middle, then "rising" toward the end of the fingerboard, it has too much relief. For some players, particularly those with a "heavy hand", a bit of relief in the middle of the neck is good, to allow for the larger travel of the string when it is struck with great force.
If you are getting "buzz" in the middle to lower frets, you don't have enough relief, typically. To get that corrected, you need to loosen the nut on the trussrod. If you have really high action in the middle to high frets, you may have too much relief in the neck, and need to tighten the nut on the trussrod
Tighten the nut to tighten the rod and straighten the neck.
Loosen the nut to loosen the rod and allow relief in the neck
Right to tighten, left to loosen
If you remove bow from the neck, it has the side-effect of making the action lower.
Well I did not see this happening but it appears I’m back in. Got a great trade on a nice used used Century 6 Standard in mint condition. Excellent bass, just have to find my strings on it. Been a long long time.
For me it's set the neck as straight as you can (minimal to no relief). I set the action really low. .035-04 from the bottom of the string to the finger board @ the 24th fret (G) and slightly raise it as required until approx. .09 on the B sting. Of course this only works if your finger board is leveled really well (a good Plek will certainly do it right). It also depends on how light (or hard) your touch is.
Burwabit
Likes guitars that tune good and firm feelin women
The black one with 19mm spacing? If so I was liking it too.
Giving my impressions after a few days with my new Roscoe from Greg at Rocket Music, giving a (very) nice deal on one of his remaining Roscoes as he closes out his remaining Roscoe inventory. Still got a couple left, get with him before you check elsewhere!
After previously owning a couple Roscoes and missing them, took the plunge and so far this one might be my favorite. Nice and light (sub 9 pounds). Beautiful quilt top, ash body, Bolivian rosewood board. Unrivaled, almost unbelievable playability - action as low as my Ken Smith, but slightly tauter feel (guessing from 35” scale) make for even faster articulation, and slapping feels/sounds better. Plus the low B……… there simply is none better (though I haven’t yet tried a Dingwall).
For those wondering (like I was) about the tone of the Aguilar DCBs/OBP-3 vs the traditional quad-coil Roscoe Barts/NTMB I was familiar with, my preliminary impression:
- Aggies are brighter, clearer, a little punchier, more presence, zing, openness, and responsiveness.
- Barts are a little more compressed (but in a good way), with more low-mid grunt, a little funkier and “nastier” (good nasty).
Scorecard:
Bass: equal
Low-mids: Barts
Other mids: Aggies (clearer)
Highs: Aggies (by a fair margin)
Eq: equal. Though I prefer the low-mid setting of the NTMB (250hz) over the OBP-3 (400hz), the OBP overall seems a little more transparent, noticeably in the bass boost.
Differences notwithstanding, there is still somehow the baked-in "Roscoe tone", in that they sound more similar than distinct, different shades of awesome rather than one being better than the other. Only thing that's less than 10/10 score is the ergonomics, I think the Century model might balance a little better than the LG (or SKB). For now at least, extremely pleased with this one!
After previously owning a couple Roscoes and missing them, took the plunge and so far this one might be my favorite. Nice and light (sub 9 pounds). Beautiful quilt top, ash body, Bolivian rosewood board. Unrivaled, almost unbelievable playability - action as low as my Ken Smith, but slightly tauter feel (guessing from 35” scale) make for even faster articulation, and slapping feels/sounds better. Plus the low B……… there simply is none better (though I haven’t yet tried a Dingwall).
For those wondering (like I was) about the tone of the Aguilar DCBs/OBP-3 vs the traditional quad-coil Roscoe Barts/NTMB I was familiar with, my preliminary impression:
- Aggies are brighter, clearer, a little punchier, more presence, zing, openness, and responsiveness.
- Barts are a little more compressed (but in a good way), with more low-mid grunt, a little funkier and “nastier” (good nasty).
Scorecard:
Bass: equal
Low-mids: Barts
Other mids: Aggies (clearer)
Highs: Aggies (by a fair margin)
Eq: equal. Though I prefer the low-mid setting of the NTMB (250hz) over the OBP-3 (400hz), the OBP overall seems a little more transparent, noticeably in the bass boost.
Differences notwithstanding, there is still somehow the baked-in "Roscoe tone", in that they sound more similar than distinct, different shades of awesome rather than one being better than the other. Only thing that's less than 10/10 score is the ergonomics, I think the Century model might balance a little better than the LG (or SKB). For now at least, extremely pleased with this one!
Well, this explains why my local Roscoe dealer has been blowing out his stock! I wasn't sure what was happening, but clearly, he has no intentions of competing with the Roscoe Mother Ship.
It's unfortunate from my perspective as I will no longer be able to try before I buy... glad I got mine years ago!
Fishheadjoe
It's unfortunate from my perspective as I will no longer be able to try before I buy... glad I got mine years ago!
Fishheadjoe
I had also noticed Clubbass had removed all indication of Roscoe from their website. They also removed Pedulla much earlier.
I don't think that the Pedulla's were moving as quickly as hoped. Pricing here in Canada is pretty darn high for a Pedulla and when you take the Canadian $ into account, it's simply crazy.
Fishheadjoe
That make sense. Those few years when our dollars were at par, I went on an instrument buying spree. Ha ha.
