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Roscoe Club

Sorry for the confusion. It's the Darkglass Tone Capsule onboard preamp.
Thanks, I'm up to speed now.
I was confused when you called it 'new DarkGlass' - they've been announcing a bunch of products lately.
I'm a bit of a DarkGlass fanboy (Alpha Micron, B7K, Vintage Ultra V2) so I watch the megathread pretty closely.
I had considered the Tone Capsule for my fretted SKB 7 which has some kind of pre/pickup weirdness.
It's still a contender so I appreciate the recommendation.
 
Thanks, I'm up to speed now.
I was confused when you called it 'new DarkGlass' - they've been announcing a bunch of products lately.
I'm a bit of a DarkGlass fanboy (Alpha Micron, B7K, Vintage Ultra V2) so I watch the megathread pretty closely.
I had considered the Tone Capsule for my fretted SKB 7 which has some kind of pre/pickup weirdness.
It's still a contender so I appreciate the recommendation.
You're way ahead of me with Darkglass electronics. Are those components that you own pedals? I'm considering one of their amps. With your experience, can you recommend one?
 
Blessed to play though this amazing bass rig 2 services today.

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You're way ahead of me with Darkglass electronics. Are those components that you own pedals? I'm considering one of their amps. With your experience, can you recommend one?
I haven't followed the amp line much, since I'm set on amps (GK 500Fusion and Hartke LH1000).
But it looks like there's 2 flavors, based on the kind of color you want, and 2 power levels.
Pick a power level that balances your need for volume and your budget.
The flavor will depend on what kind of sound matches what's in your head.
There is a TON of overlap between the distortion effect engines because all the controls do something - usually a lot of something.
So in general, the Alpha/Omega is going to be the choice of "modern metal" I know for a fact that with the Alpha Omicron drive dialed down really low, it can produce very pleasing warm vintage tones. Some would say that's a waste - why would you buy a Ferrari if you only want to drive 25 mph. But if 25 mph is where you drive, and you really, really like how your Ferrari feels there, who's to say it's wrong?
I play a lot of blues, early classic rock, and some country / Americana.
On my board, the Vintage Ultra V2 is my primary tone-shaper, and cab sim DI. It's always on, and I have the drive set for just a little tubey warmth.
When the rock projects are playing more modern stuff (e.g. GodSmack, Alive in Chains) I'll kick in the Alpha/Omicron and it can get "brootal." (Not my usual preference, but I don't pick all the songs on the setlist...) I will occasional put the B7K in the mix if I need 3 levels of drive. They all stack and play nicely together, since for the most part, they keep in their lanes and don't fight one another.
I feel it's easier to get modern metal tones from the Alpha/Omega flavor, and vintage blues & rock tones from the Vintage/B3K flavor.
 
I haven't followed the amp line much, since I'm set on amps (GK 500Fusion and Hartke LH1000).
But it looks like there's 2 flavors, based on the kind of color you want, and 2 power levels.
Pick a power level that balances your need for volume and your budget.
The flavor will depend on what kind of sound matches what's in your head.
There is a TON of overlap between the distortion effect engines because all the controls do something - usually a lot of something.
So in general, the Alpha/Omega is going to be the choice of "modern metal" I know for a fact that with the Alpha Omicron drive dialed down really low, it can produce very pleasing warm vintage tones. Some would say that's a waste - why would you buy a Ferrari if you only want to drive 25 mph. But if 25 mph is where you drive, and you really, really like how your Ferrari feels there, who's to say it's wrong?
I play a lot of blues, early classic rock, and some country / Americana.
On my board, the Vintage Ultra V2 is my primary tone-shaper, and cab sim DI. It's always on, and I have the drive set for just a little tubey warmth.
When the rock projects are playing more modern stuff (e.g. GodSmack, Alive in Chains) I'll kick in the Alpha/Omicron and it can get "brootal." (Not my usual preference, but I don't pick all the songs on the setlist...) I will occasional put the B7K in the mix if I need 3 levels of drive. They all stack and play nicely together, since for the most part, they keep in their lanes and don't fight one another.
I feel it's easier to get modern metal tones from the Alpha/Omega flavor, and vintage blues & rock tones from the Vintage/B3K flavor.
Thanks for the update. Those DarkGlass amps are some of the most interesting to me. Although, Class D amps are not my thing. I've yet to try one that has the pounding punch of a class A/B amp. For example, my Mesa Carbine 6 is 600 watts of thunder. And for me, 25 lbs. is not that heavy.
 
While I am good with class d amps, I agree that there are/were some really decently weighted solid state amps before (gk, swr, mesa, eden to name a few). To me, the neo speakers were real game changers- them 100lb cabs are no fun the older I get.

not to badmouth darkglass, but a lot of reviews of the Bergantino Forté HP say it doesn't have the class d character to it- one of the first amps with the 1200 watt power module. Been out for a few months now, and heard nothing but good things. It’s a little more expensive than the DG stuff though.
 
While I am good with class d amps, I agree that there are/were some really decently weighted solid state amps before (gk, swr, mesa, eden to name a few). To me, the neo speakers were real game changers- them 100lb cabs are no fun the older I get.

not to badmouth darkglass, but a lot of reviews of the Bergantino Forté HP say it doesn't have the class d character to it- one of the first amps with the 1200 watt power module. Been out for a few months now, and heard nothing but good things. It’s a little more expensive than the DG stuff though.
Even though I'm not gigging right now, it intrigues me to own a Class D amp without the Class D character, i.e. whimpie low end. Another problem is I don't need 1200 watts. Maybe in a year or so Class D will evolve into the massive pounder I'm used to.
 
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Picked this bad boy up a few days ago and gave it a go at church tonight... what an absolutely savage sounding bass. Just need to get used to a fiver again, got lost a couple of times tonight
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Congrats!
Very traditional look with tons of class!
Welcome to the world of Roscoe.
 
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I’m going to look into the Nordy and if I buy it and like it, then there could be a used Demeter preamp for sale.

I've got a Nordstrand pre in my SKB st+ with Bart Jazz pickups. I decided on it since (1) I had great success with a Nordy pre in an XYZ bass, (2) I wanted a full-time tone knob in addition to a high boost/cut, and (3) I was gigging all the time and wanted active/passive p/p. Very happy with the Nordy pre as it matches my tastes well.

Also, I would NOT be comfortable running my Roscoe fretless without the highs control on the preamp. I cut the highs way down for much of the work I do, but sometimes want it near detent for some upper definition. I guess I could do most of that on the amp, but isn't that the great thing about on-board electronics?
 
Knobs are in and they look great. Kia on top of Wenge with a thin layer of maple. Matches the layers in the body and the fingerboard is Wenge.

I wanted knobs that blended well and didn't detract from the bass itself. So no white indicator lines or glow in the dark inlays, or anything that would stand out. Roger at THGknobs put dimples in as indicators which is more subtle.

I'm pleased.

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Knobs are in and they look great. Kia on top of Wenge with a thin layer of maple. Matches the layers in the body and the fingerboard is Wenge.

I wanted knobs that blended well and didn't detract from the bass itself. So no white indicator lines or anything that would stand out. Roger at THGknobs put dimples in as indicators which is more subtle.

I'm pleased.

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Looks fantastic! :drool:
 
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