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Rotary switch for you series/parallel guys!!

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dhuffguitars

Luthier/Bass Wanker depending on your opinion
Sep 18, 2001
400
0
51
SPOKANE WA
www.dhuffguitars.com
#1
Sheldon Dingwall has this great 4 position rotarty switch/circut board that works great on them jazz basses, and other basses as well!

It gives you-
1. neck only
2. both p.u. in series
3. both p.u. in parallel
4. bridge only

You can use a regular set screw knob on them to retain the original jazz look. I had to do no modification to the cavity for it to fit in. Real straight forward wiring as well, easy for the beginner!


Contact Sheldon for pricing and availablity-
[email protected]
http://www.dingwallguitars.com
 
#2
My problem has been with any type of rotary switch (as opposed to a toggle) is the dexterity to get the switch through the positions you don't like to get to the ones you do. To first buy a bass and realize you have the option of 4, or six or whatever different combinations in series/ parallel and to realize that you don't like one or the other.

In any case, the problem is because of me or my preference, not the switch itself. :D

If I could I'd figure a nice way of disabling the series/ parallel switch in my G&L I would. I already redid the pickup selector switch.
 
#3
dhuffguitars said:
Sheldon Dingwall has this great 4 position rotarty switch/circut board that works great on them jazz basses, and other basses as well!

It gives you-
1. neck only
2. both p.u. in series
3. both p.u. in parallel
4. bridge only
Click to expand...

It's about freakin' time that someone came out with something like this! ;) This is the exact pickup selection mechanism I've had in my '71 Jazz for the past 5 years, also my P-J bass. I'm not sure which part my tech used to accomplish this, but it's a great configuration... great to be able to run series for a deeper/ballsier tone when needed, and you lose a tone-sucking pot from the signal chain.
 
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#4
The Golden Boy said:
If I could I'd figure a nice way of disabling the series/ parallel switch in my G&L I would. I already redid the pickup selector switch.
Click to expand...

What did you do to your G&L? How does it work now? Very Curious...

Can you also tell me which one is which, as far as the series/parallel switch on a G&L L-2500. Is the position when the switch is towards the headstock Series or Parallel?

Do you have a way to level the volume when switching between the series and parallel settings during a gig? Compressor?
 
#5
dhuffguitars said:
Sheldon Dingwall has this great 4 position rotarty switch/circut board that works great on them jazz basses, and other basses as well!

It gives you-
1. neck only
2. both p.u. in series
3. both p.u. in parallel
4. bridge only

You can use a regular set screw knob on them to retain the original jazz look. I had to do no modification to the cavity for it to fit in. Real straight forward wiring as well, easy for the beginner!
Click to expand...

Does anybody have a diagram for such switching scheme?
 
#6
I've often thought that having a pickup selector as opposed to a blend knob, or individual volume controls would be easier to recall specific tones as opposed to trying to dial in the proper amount of each pickup and being satisfied with getting it "close enough".

That being said, all of my current basses are single pickup instruments.....
 
#7
Sheldon might send you a diagram, I dunno. He posts here, Sheldon D.

I love this switch, and just FYI, JP Basses and Skjold also both use this switch. Another advantage to a switch vs a blend is that you dont have any volume loss at certain postions. It limits you to 4 base sounds, actually, 3, series just being louder than parallel usually (at least IME). But most people dont get more than 3-4 usuable sounds out of a blend anyhow, with some exceptions of course.
 
#9
I had one of these switches in my Ric bass back in the late 70's, and in a fretless P/J bass in the 80's. It was real handy in the P bass with the limited knob count ... I had volume, the pickup selector, and tone.

For those who like to DIY, here's the hand drawn schematic (from 1985). You need a 3 pole, 4 position switch. You can even pick them up in Radio Shack, and Stew-Mac has them with longer threaded shafts.

If it's not obvious, FB P.U. = fingerboard pickup. (P.U. or P/U is the correct abbreviation for pickup, NOT "pup" which is a small dog ;) ) The switch diagram shows the poles as A, B, and C. as shown from the bottom. You just have to find which is which with a continuity tester, or look at the contacts as you turn the switch. N.C. means "no connection". Connections "B" and "C" with the (+) and ground symbols are the output to the volume and tone controls. A connects to the neck (FB) pickup hot.
 
#13
McDreads said:
My Framus Nashville had that switch since '74....
Click to expand...

I remember those basses. The Framus is actually: 1) neck pickup only 2) both pickups in phase 3) both pickups out of phase and 4) bridge pickup only. There is no series setting.

http://www.bassplayer.com/article/retro-rama-1974/jun-08/85565

I got the idea from the Gibson L6-S and L9-S Ripper (both designed in 1972), except the ripper also has the fairly useless out-of-phase settings.

I used to like to do the 6 way L6-S switches, and just eventually distilled it down to four, removing the two out-of-phase settings.

Both the Framus and Gibson switches and pickups were designed by Bill Lawrence.
 
#15
Here's a diagram that I came up with and am currently using in my Danelectro DC bass.
rotary.jpg


I'm using this switch.
http://www.allparts.com/store/4-pos-rotary-switch,Product.asp

I haven't been messing around with electronics for very long so it may not be the best approach, but it seems to work.
 
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