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Router Bit Question
- Thread starter aborg1
- Start date
SaintMez
Commercial User
- Jan 3, 2010
- 428
- 59
- Disclosures
- Blood Brothers Guitars - Luthier, Porter Guitars - Contractor
Matching the diameter of the bit would be important or you risk having your cavity slightly larger or smaller than the template. Also if the bearing is smaller you will cut into your template.
Hi.
Up until one tries to find those bearings
.
The pattern/routing dimension inaccuracies SaintMez mentions can make finding a suitable ball or needle bearing a PITA.
They have to have the same OD.
A two piece (or even one piece) plain bearing works pretty well though, and can be turned even on the crappiest of metal lathes.
Regards
Sam
Up until one tries to find those bearings
.The pattern/routing dimension inaccuracies SaintMez mentions can make finding a suitable ball or needle bearing a PITA.
They have to have the same OD.
A two piece (or even one piece) plain bearing works pretty well though, and can be turned even on the crappiest of metal lathes.
Regards
Sam
Hopkins
Commercial User
Seems like a lot of shopping round for no gain. Pattern bits are not that expensive, This one is great because its very shallow
http://www.rockler.com/1-2-pattern-router-bit
http://www.rockler.com/1-2-pattern-router-bit
Maybe, but for me it was a piece cake. I like the idea of having the flexibility to have multiple sizes. Manufactures normally have limited choices. Liked the pattern-router bit you posted as well. Getting other ideas and opinions to me makes one's knowledge base broader.
Thanks
Thanks
+1
A downside of using aftermarket bearings (whether you make them or not) is bearing slippage. Few things are less fun than getting into the zone with your cut and having the bearing ride up the bit causing you the two fold misery of ruining your work piece and your template in one go.
I'd say maybe let the people who make the bits professionally make the bits and focus all of that machining skill into making your own fret benders, bridges, tuners etc.
But then again, if you are good at it, and you find it fun, by all means. Life is all about learning.
I have a bunch of bits and bearings I've picked up over the years. I mix and match bit cutter length and number of bearings depending on what I am routing. Then I use a bit of 1/4" plastic tube as a sleeve to hold the bearings in place.
This is after I use forstner bits and 1/2" shank pattern bits to do any heavy hogging that needs to be done.
This is after I use forstner bits and 1/2" shank pattern bits to do any heavy hogging that needs to be done.
I've only made one bass, but I've been a hobbyist wood worker for some 45 years, and, in my opinion, you've hit the proverbial nail on the head. The quality of these bits is hard to beat, especially for the price. The are long lasting, and resharpenable.
Also true.
For routing flat bottom gains or cavities, I often use a flat bottom up cut, top bearing bit, with adjustable bearing height, with 3" flutes. The bit needs a higher HP router, though. I use 3HP router for the process. It's been a while, but, as I recall, the bit is made by Bosch.
Hi.
If Your bit shank is long enough for min 2/3 of the collet length, then there shouldn't be any problems.
I say shouldn't, because usually the bits that don't come with the top bearing are supposed to be inserted flush with the collet face. The shaft may not be hard enough to withstand the cutting forces if the bit is mounted incorrectly.
The deep cutting bits have long shafts, more suitable material and usually different cutting geometry.
Regards
Sam
If Your bit shank is long enough for min 2/3 of the collet length, then there shouldn't be any problems.
I say shouldn't, because usually the bits that don't come with the top bearing are supposed to be inserted flush with the collet face. The shaft may not be hard enough to withstand the cutting forces if the bit is mounted incorrectly.
The deep cutting bits have long shafts, more suitable material and usually different cutting geometry.
Regards
Sam
To the OP,
I have added bearings to standard router bits to use as a template bit as the ready made template bits are not available in my country. There are downsides to this of course.
1. Your bearing may not match exactly to the bit. In my case the bearing was a hair larger than the bit. Its not so much of a problem if you route with the bearing riding only against the template throughout the depth of cut, the route will turn out 0.1mm undersized(in my case) which is not too bad in terms of accuracy. The problem arises when you remove the template and use the existing cavity route as a template to deepen the route. That's when you'll see a 'step' showing that your bearing does not match the cutter. That too is not a problem if you don't let that step bother your OCD.
2. Normal straight bits have a short shaft. Adding a bearing may not allow the shaft to go in through the entire length of the collet, but I didn't have this problem. I didn't need to use any shaft locker for the bearing as the bearing was itself butted up against the collet nut. If I needed to pull the shank out a bit to get more depth of cut, I just added one more bearing and butted it against the collet nut.
3. Standard bits have some coloured protective coating that may not allow you to get your bearing too close to the cutter leaving a larger that normal gap between your bearing end and the cutter start. You can, however, overcome this by using a slightly thicker template.
For the sake of good measure with such a high rpm tool, one must buy the best quality of bearings they can find.
Long story short, if template bits were available to me locally, I would just buy them..!! They come in variety of sizes and combinations. You can search on ebay too.
I have added bearings to standard router bits to use as a template bit as the ready made template bits are not available in my country. There are downsides to this of course.
1. Your bearing may not match exactly to the bit. In my case the bearing was a hair larger than the bit. Its not so much of a problem if you route with the bearing riding only against the template throughout the depth of cut, the route will turn out 0.1mm undersized(in my case) which is not too bad in terms of accuracy. The problem arises when you remove the template and use the existing cavity route as a template to deepen the route. That's when you'll see a 'step' showing that your bearing does not match the cutter. That too is not a problem if you don't let that step bother your OCD.
2. Normal straight bits have a short shaft. Adding a bearing may not allow the shaft to go in through the entire length of the collet, but I didn't have this problem. I didn't need to use any shaft locker for the bearing as the bearing was itself butted up against the collet nut. If I needed to pull the shank out a bit to get more depth of cut, I just added one more bearing and butted it against the collet nut.
3. Standard bits have some coloured protective coating that may not allow you to get your bearing too close to the cutter leaving a larger that normal gap between your bearing end and the cutter start. You can, however, overcome this by using a slightly thicker template.
For the sake of good measure with such a high rpm tool, one must buy the best quality of bearings they can find.
Long story short, if template bits were available to me locally, I would just buy them..!! They come in variety of sizes and combinations. You can search on ebay too.
