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Routing a bass to make it lighter

#21
Routing is usually done as part of the build process, and is done to the wings of the instrument, not in the center. In general you want to keep the center solid for strength and transfer of the string vibration for end to end.

Routing can be done for lightening the bass or to add some acoustic like qualities to the instrument. So besides lightening the bass it also opens up the sound some. Also routed instrument made with two pieces of wood. A thin top that covers the routed out main body of the bass.

On guitars but I imagine it could be done on bass some will route out a area under the bridge and install pizeo pickup for a acoustic sound. Again all this is worked out and done in the building of the instrument not after the fact.
 
#22
I've actually performed this operation, several times. The first few were Fenders, and I left the part of the body between the base of the neck and the bridge alone. I figured that this was the "drive train" and shouldn't be messed with. The results were excellent. No perceived change in tone, no sudden neck diving, lighter weight. Most of the players said the bass sounded more responsive and resonant after the work. The rest said it was the same bass, only lighter.

I discussed the process with a few structural engineers who suggested expanding the process into the area under the strings. I went ahead and tried it, usually on 1970's Fender boat anchors. The results were substantially the same, although the more radical weight reductions did change the balance noticeably. All of the customers agreed that the reduction in weight was well worth the change in balance.

I've never had a complaint about the tone, although that doesn't mean it won't happen someday, on some bass. If your bass has legitimate vintage value, forget it. Sell it as is and buy another. If you do decide to do the job, and later decide to sell, you should be honest and disclose the modification. Most players won't care. If it sounds good and feels good, it is a good bass.

This should only be done by an experienced hand, and the cavity should be sealed after the routing is completed.
 
#26
Giraffe said:
I've actually performed this operation, several times. The first few were Fenders, and I left the part of the body between the base of the neck and the bridge alone. I figured that this was the "drive train" and shouldn't be messed with. The results were excellent. No perceived change in tone, no sudden neck diving, lighter weight. Most of the players said the bass sounded more responsive and resonant after the work. The rest said it was the same bass, only lighter.

I discussed the process with a few structural engineers who suggested expanding the process into the area under the strings. I went ahead and tried it, usually on 1970's Fender boat anchors. The results were substantially the same, although the more radical weight reductions did change the balance noticeably. All of the customers agreed that the reduction in weight was well worth the change in balance.

I've never had a complaint about the tone, although that doesn't mean it won't happen someday, on some bass. If your bass has legitimate vintage value, forget it. Sell it as is and buy another. If you do decide to do the job, and later decide to sell, you should be honest and disclose the modification. Most players won't care. If it sounds good and feels good, it is a good bass.

This should only be done by an experienced hand, and the cavity should be sealed after the routing is completed.
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Thanks for this.
I don't suppose you still have any pics of the job ?
 
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#27
I did it on a cheapo plywood P body. Sounded exactly the same except touching the pickguard was louder, though you don't hear it through the amp. Brought weight down to 8 lbs but it was neck heavy. So a few months ago I replaced the heavy 70s style tuners with Hipshot Ultralites, and now it's not neck heavy and weighs 7 1/4 lbs. Nice!
 
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#28
I recently bought a bass and didn’t know it had been routed out under the pickguard. It’s a killer bass and sounds great. Thankfully it isn’t neck heavy and at 8.5 lbs they hogged out enough wood to make it worth it. Just wish I’d been told up front.
If you’re never going to sell it go for it. But have a pro do it if you haven’t routed wood before
 
#29
Just don't get carried away!
Photo-Collage-1597501228465.jpg
 
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#33
Giraffe said:
View attachment 3946087

This reduced the weight from 8 pounds 8 ounces to 8/3. By my expert calculations, that is a net savings of 3 to 8 ounces.

But seriously, every little bit makes a difference, depending on the player. I tend to be a little more aggressive when I am "weight-relieving" a heavier body.
Click to expand...
that's what the roadworn I got looked like, it's loud unplugged and the tone is still great.
 
#35
Yellow said:
I also do not advise this procedure.:ninja:

Lets turn to physics for a sec. Bass produces low resonance long, high amplitude long waves. unlike guitar: trrrrrr its: buwow excuse my sound immitations. low frequency travels trough material with mass as apposed to high frequency that travels trough air (oversimplified and generalized I am sure) so the bigger the mass the better the sustain. You can almost definitely say that equal pickups/strings/amplification lighter body will resonate (shake) sooner and by vibrating will cancel out larger portion of low end. Heavy body will sustain a note and low freq better and loger.

Try just for fun, pluck a note with your bass on a light stand and then pluck it again putting the bass down on the floor and put some pressure on the headstock to make a firm contact with the floor, you will hear the difference, what happens is you ve just added mass.
Click to expand...

Speaking of "turning to physics," this is bad science.

First, low-frequency sound waves travel through different media just as higher-frequency waves do.

Second, "sustain" is a result of one thing: The plucked string vibrates longer, meaning it does not transfer its energy to the thing it's attached to. If you made a solid-bodied instrument out of cardboard or balsa wood, it would not matter how much mass it had; it would still absorb the string's energy quickly, and you would have little sustain. Conversely, a low-mass body made of a lightweight alloy would sustain long. We don't typically do either one of those things because we like the "sounds" of wood (which frequencies it absorbs and which it reflects).
 
#36
Back in the 70s Fender routed out extra wood under the pickguard because the wood they used those years was so heavy.

Sometimes you see these listed as **smugglers** models.

1967-fender-smuggler-telecaster-blond-3-mGEgLnc.jpg


Also, a few years back Fender made lots of Strats with **swimming pool** routes where all the wood is routed out between the neck and the tremolo.

272607-2fc079350ef357c4d91dff4bdaccf58d.jpg


And of course the Fender Japan Affinity have major wood removal



51991401_300570467299072_1523417521137385472_n.jpg


Nobody ever cries about the above guitars not having any tone, sustain, mojo, or whatever.

So yes, go ahead and route out your extra wood. You will ruin the value of the bass, but probably not any of it's **mojo**
 
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#37
I would highly recommend that you take the approach beginning with a more comfortable strap. I use a fairly wide one for my lighter bases in the 8 pound range. For the 10 pound range basses, I use a double strap that goes over both shoulders. Makes it very comfortable for playing long hour gigs.
 

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