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Routing jigs and fixtures for general use

Hi,

I'm planning a slow return to the realm of (hobbyist) luthiery. I thought I should concentrate on tooling first. Mainly for electric instruments.

I plan on doing a lot of the tasks with routers. I was interested in your views on what fixtures do you consider essential or useful in general use. As in not model specific.

What I've been able to come up with so far is:
- Router Planing Fixture for bodies or bigger lumps of wood
- RPF for necks
- RPF for headstocks and scarf joints
- (compound) radiusing fixture
- a jig for routing arcs (mainly for tooling)
- extended asymmetric base for tricky stuff
- a routing table of some sort

But what else? A jointing fixture? An adjustable jig jor neck joints? A specified jig for truss rods and stiffeners? What do you consider essential or good/nice to have?

I hope this benefits others as well. But I'm still quite happy if this ends up helping just me.

Quite sincerely,
Ville
 
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Hi,

I'm planning a slow return to the realm of (hobbyist) luthiery. I thought I should concentrate on tooling first. Mainly for electric instruments.

I plan on doing a lot of the tasks with routers. I was interested in your views on what fixtures do you consider essential or useful in general use. As in not model specific.

What I've been able to come up with so far is:
- Router Planing Fixture for bodies or bigger lumps of wood
- RPF for necks
- RPF for headstocks and scarf joints
- (compound) radiusing fixture
- a jig for routing arcs (mainly for tooling)
- extended asymmetric base for tricky stuff
- a routing table of some sort

But what else? A jointing fixture? An adjustable jig jor neck joints? A specified jig for truss rods and stiffeners? What do you consider essential or good/nice to have?

I hope this benefits others as well. But I'm still quite happy if this ends up helping just me.

Quite sincerely,
Ville

Well, I've been writing about router fixtures here on Luthier's Corner for many years. Everything you are asking for, and more!

I'd suggest starting by reading these two threads:


 
You Name It, Bruce has written the definitive Chapter and Verse on it. I've built a few hack-level fixtures that work just well enough for my microscopic output, but a well designed and built jig can save a lot of frustration and backtracking to fix dumb mistakes, for which I am the Poster Boy.
 
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Thanks for the replies. I should've propably mentioned that I have read most of that over the last few years. As I said, returning slowly. And I am very thankful for you Bruce for sharing all that. Not many have the will or the patience to do what you do.

But I'm more interested in what jigs or fixtures other hobbyist scale builders use regularly in their workflow. I want to build a solid collection of tooling before starting an actual project. And honestly, in the near future I can maybe find enough hours to build a jig. A guitar or a bass is a bit further down the road.
 
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As a very definite amateur and occasional builder I've found a need for pickup /control cavity, neck pocket, fretboard radius and truss rod jigs, and I've usually made a body profile jig too. I'm not interested in speeding stuff up though, the process is part of it for me as a hobbyist and I don't want to get too much machine between me and the wood.
 
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I have built a few half-decent simple jigs, one for flattening bodies or other parts, basically a simple router sled, as well as a fixture for radiusing fingerboards by hand I'm about to retire, having finally gotten around to making a router radius jig. I have a lot of one-off templates for various pickups and bridge recesses, and a few I've used repeatedly. I think it took me a while to realize I need to apply the same level of thought and craft to jigs as what I apply to finished parts. I'm in the process of building a fret slotting jig, pretty much by necsessity now that LMI is gone. I used to buy pre-slotted fingerboards from them. Of the jigs I've built, the router sled/flattening box gets the most use, then maybe a headstock angle cutting jig, as I tend to like an 8 degree headstock angle. I hope the fret slotting jig comes out well enough to be my new go-to. I just use 5/8" or 3/4" MDF for most of them, introducing more durable parts where necessary. Just soaking the cut edges of MDF with CA glue seems to make them much more durable, and leaves a kind of plastic-y self-lubricating surface.
 
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Thanks for the replies. I should've propably mentioned that I have read most of that over the last few years. As I said, returning slowly. And I am very thankful for you Bruce for sharing all that. Not many have the will or the patience to do what you do.

But I'm more interested in what jigs or fixtures other hobbyist scale builders use regularly in their workflow. I want to build a solid collection of tooling before starting an actual project. And honestly, in the near future I can maybe find enough hours to build a jig. A guitar or a bass is a bit further down the road.

Here are my recommendations for a hobbyist electric bass builder, with a small shop and basic power tools (Drill press, bandsaw, router). The overall idea is to build two holding fixtures, one for bodies, and one for necks. These holding fixtures can be used for Router Planing, cutting flat surfaces on blanks, using wide bases on your router. Then flat templates can be clamped down to the holding fixtures, to use to rout neck pockets, pickup cavities, control cavities, truss rod slots, etc. You make the templates yourself from 3/4" MDF.

Collar routing through templates makes everything easier. I recommend setting up to use two sizes of collars with their associated bits: 3/8" Collar/1/4" Bit and 5/8" Collar/1/2" Bit. Note that they both require the same 1/16" offset in the templates. So, you make all of your templates with 1/16" offset. Then, with the same template in place, you can hog out most of the wood with the 1/2" bit, and switch over to the 1/4" bit to clean up the small corners. Ideally, you have two routers all set up, and just switch between them.

Here's the list of what you need to make up:

Router accessories:
  • A rectangular base with a 3/8" collar
  • Another one with a 5/8" collar
  • A long base with a side handle; open center, no collar
  • A 30" long bridge base, that mounts the router in the center.
Building bodies:
  • Body holding fixture; about 28" long x 20" wide, with 2" high parallel rails and clamping flanges on the rails. The body blank mounts down into it.
  • A collection of templates, made from 3/4" MDF. Make them all the same size, like 24" x 20", so they can be stacked and stored neatly. You could make one that has all the standard pickup cavities that you use; P, J, MM, Soapbar, etc. One for neck pockets. One for control cavities. Or any combination that you want. And you can even make templates to rout the body perimeter shape, if you want to do that. Thay are all made to be used with the collar bases, and to be clamped down to the holding fixture.
Building necks:
  • Neck holding fixture, long and narrow, about 30" long x 6" wide, with long side rails about 3" high. Clamping flanges on the rails. I recommend building it as a squeeze fixture; One side rail is fixed and the other slides. Several bolts and knobs tighten them together, like a long wooden vise, clamping on the neck blank. I've shown several designs for these in my threads. A flat base router can be used on the rails to router-plane flat surfaces on a neck blank. Including surfaces of angled headstocks. And long MDF templates can be clamped to the fixture, for routing slots for truss rods and bars.
  • A few templates, for cutting truss rod slots, or even neck perimeters. All of the templates are made with the same 1/16" offset to use the collar base router.
Some other useful specialty fixtures:
  • A vertical Router Jointing Fixture. Quickly and accurately joints the edges of boards to be glued up into body blanks. Real simple to make.
  • Fingerboard radiusing fixture. This can be fairly simple or can get complicated, depending on how much you want it to do. A big time saver.
  • Fingerboard slotting jig. The hardest part is buying or making accurate metal scale templates.
  • Neck holding fixture, for mounting the neck face-down on your bench, to make it easier to shape the back of the neck.
  • Holding fixtures for painting the neck and body.
Those are what I consider to be the essential fixtures for building electric basses. Without getting into making hardware and pickups.

I'll refer you to other threads, if you have questions on any of them.
 
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I would say for making things straight and flat, a handplane would be my choice, especially in a small shop. You can't go wrong with a #4, #5 and #7.
A handplane is quite a capable tool, there's certainly a learning curve though.
 
Thanks again for the replies. I gotta say I especially like the idea of two routing stations that can be accessorized for different tasks. I had some ideas for combining functions for neck work. But it makes sense to take it a bit further.

This needs some pondering over. First challenge that comes to mind is the neck fixture and how it adapts to different size necks and fingerboards. I mean if the idea is to do fingerboard radiusing and neck through shaping on the same base structure. Open end or ends for some operations could be the answer there.

So I think I'm off to do a bit of cad work. I'll try and report what I come up with. If anything...
 
Thanks again for the replies. I gotta say I especially like the idea of two routing stations that can be accessorized for different tasks. I had some ideas for combining functions for neck work. But it makes sense to take it a bit further.

This needs some pondering over. First challenge that comes to mind is the neck fixture and how it adapts to different size necks and fingerboards. I mean if the idea is to do fingerboard radiusing and neck through shaping on the same base structure. Open end or ends for some operations could be the answer there.

So I think I'm off to do a bit of cad work. I'll try and report what I come up with. If anything...

You could theoretically build a single Holding Fixture that could handle bodies and necks, but it would need to be about 20" wide x 36" long. Oversize and unwieldy for either job. You are better off making one for bodies and one for necks.

For the neck fixture, it's handier to make it a squeeze-style, which clamps horizontally, like a long narrow woodworking vise. Most of the early neck operations involve a long straight rectangular board, which is real easy to clamp in the fixture. But, when you need to rout something odd shaped, you just fasten it down to a long straight board, which then clamps into the fixture.

Here are some examples of squeeze-style fixtures for necks;

IMG_0244B.jpg


IMG_0968B.jpg


IMG_8769B.jpg


IMG_8770B.jpg


The body holding fixture can also be built to be squeeze style, using horizontal bar clamps. You can see examples of ones I've built over the the Router Planing thread. But it may not be worth the trouble for occasional builds. The simplest thing is to fasten the body blank down to the bottom of the fixture with a couple of screws.

IMG_4706B.jpg


Yes, you can build your neck holding fixture to also do fingerboard radiusing. Add some round aluminum rods along the outer edges of the two side rails, and build a special base for your router with a radiused bottom. Here's my classic old Fingerboard Radiusing Fixture:

 
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