Sanding the back of a neck

[lark_z]

An important note: you are merely breaking the gloss finish here, rather than sanding to bare wood or even removing a significant amount of finish. If done correctly, the neck could be buffed back to a gloss with the remaining finish, so you're not really doing something as permanent as it sounds.

^^ This...

For me, a sequence of grits from 600 to 2000. Auto parts stores will have a pack of assorted high grits that they sell for auto body touchup work. Water with a drop of soap won't hurt, but isn't strictly necessary. Fold the paper into thirds or fourths and conform it to the shape of the neck. Sand LIGHTLY with the grain (up and down the neck). You're just barely taking off some gloss, not trying to strip the neck.

 

[ThomasTronics]

I have two sanded neck basses.
I started with a very very light 320 sanding to get the lacquer off.
Than I soaked 600 and 2000 grit sand paper in water with a dab of soap.
And i pretty much sand 600 all over the neck and smoothly and even strokes as possible.
DRY THE NECK ASAP don't let the water soak in.
Than I repeated with 2000 to the point it feels like polished wood.
DRY THE NECK AGAIN.

I have this on a Warwick and Japanese jazz. Love the feel of them and so have a few other players that have borrowed basses.

 

[buldog5151bass]

Try different Scott Brite pads. Knocks down the gloss, and isn't permanent. After a few months of hard playing the gloss comes back, so you cab tweak to your preference.

 

[Rnr..........4]

I have two sanded neck basses.
I started with a very very light 320 sanding to get the lacquer off.
Than I soaked 600 and 2000 grit sand paper in water with a dab of soap.
And i pretty much sand 600 all over the neck and smoothly and even strokes as possible.
DRY THE NECK ASAP don't let the water soak in.
Than I repeated with 2000 to the point it feels like polished wood.
DRY THE NECK AGAIN.

I have this on a Warwick and Japanese jazz. Love the feel of them and so have a few other players that have borrowed basses.

Is there bare wood left after that? Would you use gunstock oil after?

 

[lark_z]

Is there bare wood left after that? Would you use gunstock oil after?

No, you're just cutting down the factory finish a tad. Think of it more as just sanding the finish.

It won't hurt if you want to put a tad of your desired finish on it after you're done. Note - "a tad" means just that. For me it's just a bit of TruOil or Danish oil on a rag and any excess is removed with a quick wipe down.

 

[Clark Westfield]

I've just used a new green Scotchbright with light pressure.

A year later, it's polished back up, and I have to do it again.

 

[ThomasTronics]

Is there bare wood left after that? Would you use gunstock oil after?

Just barewood and i make sure to wipe the neck clean after a play. I do not have sweaty hands when i play and i think there is something about sanding with wet 2000 grit paper that kind of seals the wood. I claim no science to that! lol just feels that way

 

[fhm555]

ScotchBrite pads are good but you need a finer one than a green. Someone will be along to tell you what color as I don't remember.

I use green scotchbrite pads I've worn out in the kitchen. Run it through the washer with a load of clothes then set it out to dry before using it on your neck.

 

[andare]

I already have the set of micro mesh pads from Stewmac. Would those be any good? Also, would a finer grade of sandpaper be advisable?

I've used micro mesh pads to degloss and regloss a Fender neck several times. It's pretty much non-destructive for a couple of passes if you change your mind.

600-800 grit sandpaper also works. I don't understand going up in grit to 2000 as that makes the neck glossy again. You want it rough, right? After a while it gets glossy again from skin friction so another light pass is needed.

 

[pbass2]

Try different Scott Brite pads. Knocks down the gloss, and isn't permanent. After a few months of hard playing the gloss comes back, so you cab tweak to your preference.

I use the grey ones on my glossy-necked Pbass and it works great. But yep, the gloss does come back after playing a while. How the heck does that work? I mean, what is the science happening there?

 

[andare]

I use the grey ones on my glossy-necked Pbass and it works great. But yep, the gloss does come back after playing a while. How the heck does that work? I mean, what is the science happening there?

Our skin is like fine sandpaper

 

[Adagietto]

Our skin is like fine sandpaper

Or polishing compound.

 

[Turnaround]

Or polishing compound.

And you are rubbing the polishing compound with skin oil.

 

[hbarcat]

I've seen recommendations to use sandpaper with ratings anywhere from 400# to 2000#.

In my experience, 1000# is just about right.

I'd be very leery of using anything less than 800#.

 

[andare]

I've seen recommendations to use sandpaper with ratings anywhere from 400# to 2000#.

In my experience, 1000# is just about right.

I'd be very leery of using anything less than 800#.

Up to you how rough you need the neck. Considering it shines up again in a few weeks, 600 grit was just right for me. Some people even sand the neck down to bare wood, which is probably not a good idea.

Regardless of grit, I will never understand people who tape off the headstock and end up with a clean edge between the gloss and the satin. I'd hate to feel that drastic change in texture.

 

[Adagietto]

Regardless of grit, I will never understand people who tape off the headstock and end up with a clean edge between the gloss and the satin. I'd hate to feel that drastic change in texture.

I have a Supro guitar that came from the factory like that. It happens to be my favorite guitar neck (of the guitars that I own). I've never noticed the transition point, but I don't play the headstock.

 

[andare]

I don't play the headstock.

what is this, amateur hour?

 

[Adagietto]

what is this, amateur hour?

Absolutely. I can prove it.