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SBMM Stingray Short scale

In the sketch above, the red circled terminals are the common terminals for the switch. When in the down position these terminals are connected to the terminals with nothing connected to them (above the common terminals in the previous sketch). Therefore the pickup signal is forced thru the resistor and capacitor on its way to the volume pot thereby creating a "padded" signal. With the switch in the up position, the switch essentially creates a short across both the resistor and capacitor thereby sending the full strength signal to the volume pot.
 
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In the sketch above, the red circled terminals are the common terminals for the switch. When in the down position these terminals are connected to the terminals with nothing connected to them (above the common terminals in the previous sketch). Therefore the pickup signal is forced thru the resistor and capacitor on its way to the volume pot thereby creating a "padded" signal. With the switch in the up position, the switch essentially creates a short across both the resistor and capacitor thereby sending the full strength signal to the volume pot.
Yes. I see what you mean now and it makes sense.
Thanks for your help!
 
Just an FYI for those looking to do mods to the pots. The tone pot that is stock in the bass is a 100k. So if you use a 500K or 250k pot in the bass, you will experience a brighter tone.

I purchased the EBMM stock tone pot for the USA version of this bass, which is 500k with 1/4 inch solid shaft. The holes in the control plate fit the larger USA pot, however, the sound is brighter as I said. I also purchased the USA Push Pull pot from EBMM but haven't installed it or examined the stock one yet. Just wanted bass brothers and sisters to be aware of this.
Okay, I just wanted to correct a little error in my previous post about the tone pot for the EBMM short scale. Actually, the tone pot in the Ernie ball version is also 100k. I know this because I upgraded to the Ernie Ball bass. Since I love the SBMM version, I do not plan on selling it.

Several things I noticed about the Ernie Ball version. It's definitely deeper sounding with more low mids than the Sterling. However, I'm not sure if it's due to the different woods used. The Ernie Ball version uses an ash body and roasted maple neck. I got the one with the Rosewood fretboard instead of the maple fretboard I have on the Sterling. Definitely two different sounds I'm getting from the two different basses.
 
Okay, I just wanted to correct a little error in my previous post about the tone pot for the EBMM short scale. Actually, the tone pot in the Ernie ball version is also 100k. I know this because I upgraded to the Ernie Ball bass. Since I love the SBMM version, I do not plan on selling it.

Several things I noticed about the Ernie Ball version. It's definitely deeper sounding with more low mids than the Sterling. However, I'm not sure if it's due to the different woods used. The Ernie Ball version uses an ash body and roasted maple neck. I got the one with the Rosewood fretboard instead of the maple fretboard I have on the Sterling. Definitely two different sounds I'm getting from the two different basses.

More likely it is from premium materials and craftsmanship through the entire signal chain. PUP, Bridge, pots, wiring, jack, etc. I mean, if MM gave you all the same stuff in the Sterling brand why shell out an extra $2500 for the EB version? I would love to have one of those, but I don't want to pay for it.
 
More likely it is from premium materials and craftsmanship through the entire signal chain. PUP, Bridge, pots, wiring, jack, etc. I mean, if MM gave you all the same stuff in the Sterling brand why shell out an extra $2500 for the EB version? I would love to have one of those, but I don't want to pay for it.
It's $2399. Since I liked the Sterling so much, I wanted the American version in a different color. But yes, it is pricey for all of the Ernie Ball products.
 
Does anyone know how much the tuners on the SBMM weigh? Considering upgrading to Ultralites.
The stock SBMM tuners weight 2.71 oz alone without the bushing and screws.
for appearance sake, I installed the Hipshot that is the exact replacement for the stock SBMM tuners they weigh 2.61 oz each.
I thought about using Ultralites but I'm not getting any neck dive and the bass weight and sustain are fine.
I did go with the USA tuners with non tapered string shafts so I could get a better and more consistent downward string angle behind the nut.
I find that it really makes a difference in how the bass feels and it seems to even out the string tension.
Hope this helps...
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I have a set of LaBella low tension flats on my Bronco short scale and they are great.
You need to get the proper scale length set so the windings at the machine heads will be correct.
You can't have the actual string playing surface wrap around the post, the string will break.
Only the ends with the silk, the core wire is what holds these together.
 
I have a set of LaBella low tension flats on my Bronco short scale and they are great.
You need to get the proper scale length set so the windings at the machine heads will be correct.
You can't have the actual string playing surface wrap around the post, the string will break.
Only the ends with the silk, the core wire is what holds these together.
Your post makes me question the quality of the LaBella flats. I've had Pyramid Gold flats on my short scale bass for about 20 years with full diameter winding around the post. The only problem with it is that it does not look quite right to me.
IMG_5977.JPG
 
Your post makes me question the quality of the LaBella flats. I've had Pyramid Gold flats on my short scale bass for about 20 years with full diameter winding around the post. The only problem with it is that it does not look quite right to me.
View attachment 4853869
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the quality of LaBella strings, they design them and know how they should be correctly installed
 
Then why do they break when other brands don't?
They only break when people don't read the package installation info. Get the right scale of string set, install it properly and you will be happy.
Also, you can't run most brands of flat wounds thru the bridge/body of the bass either, because the acute angle breaks the flat wound wrap and, with the thicker flat winding string it can break the core wire.
 
They only break when people don't read the package installation info. Get the right scale of string set, install it properly and you will be happy.
Also, you can't run most brands of flat wounds thru the bridge/body of the bass either, because the acute angle breaks the flat wound wrap and, with the thicker flat winding string it can break the core wire.
Well, you stated that they would break in the same sort of situation that my Pyramids have not broken for 20 years now, so for toughness, Pyramid > LaBella. Or maybe the truth is that even wound around the post, flats might not break?
 
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Well, you stated that they would break in the same sort of situation that my Pyramids have not broken for 20 years now, so for toughness, Pyramid > LaBella. Or maybe the truth is that even wound around the post, flats might not break?

If you want to debate the toughness of Labella vs Pyramid, you probably need to find another discussion thread.
 
Okay, I just wanted to correct a little error in my previous post about the tone pot for the EBMM short scale. Actually, the tone pot in the Ernie ball version is also 100k. I know this because I upgraded to the Ernie Ball bass. Since I love the SBMM version, I do not plan on selling it.

Several things I noticed about the Ernie Ball version. It's definitely deeper sounding with more low mids than the Sterling. However, I'm not sure if it's due to the different woods used. The Ernie Ball version uses an ash body and roasted maple neck. I got the one with the Rosewood fretboard instead of the maple fretboard I have on the Sterling. Definitely two different sounds I'm getting from the two different basses.
I wanted to ask how much difference you experienced overall by switching to different value (250k or 500k) pots in the stock guts?

Unfortunately, I’ve always felt that my SBMM short scale was a little dull and muddy sounding. Not AT ALL what someone would expect out of a stingray. Did you achieve a brighter, clearer tone? I’ve wanted to either add a preamp like a proper stingray, or convert it to a P bass ever since I got it, due to my unhappiness with the stock guts. That being said, I already have too many P basses, and would love to keep this Ray passive if it’s possible to get a livelier sound out of it.
 
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I wanted to ask how much difference you experienced overall by switching to different value (250k or 500k) pots in the stock guts?

Unfortunately, I’ve always felt that my SBMM short scale was a little dull and muddy sounding. Not AT ALL what someone would expect out of a stingray. Did you achieve a brighter, clearer tone? I’ve wanted to either add a preamp like a proper stingray, or convert it to a P bass ever since I got it, due to my unhappiness with the stock guts. That being said, I already have too many P basses, and would love to keep this Ray passive if it’s possible to get a livelier sound out of it.
Yes, I got a clearer and brighter tone from the base with the 500k pot. Thing I noticed is that with the capacitor value that comes stock, you have to turn the tone knob to about 75% counterclockwise for it to start doing anything. Since I prefer a brighter cutting tone it doesn't bother me one bit. But YMMV.