Long shaft pots are what you need. They're mostly sold as Les Paul replacement parts. Up to an inch of thread length should be more than enough to never worry about a broken top again.So I've struggled with that issue as well, cavity top being too thick for pots to reach thru and screw the nut on. I get super concerned about it being too thin and breaking. I've seen some guys just use a forstner bit to create a thinner area just around the pot body, so that the rest of it is still thicker. I may start doing that, because there's a point where that wood gets thin enough that my stress level goes WAY up.
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SBO 2022 - GMC Basses #9: Back to the beginning
- Thread starter GMC
- Start date
That's exactly what I do - I relieve the top with a forstner bit around each pot hole. I'd love to use long shaft pots but many times they are not available for the application.So I've struggled with that issue as well, cavity top being too thick for pots to reach thru and screw the nut on. I get super concerned about it being too thin and breaking. I've seen some guys just use a forstner bit to create a thinner area just around the pot body, so that the rest of it is still thicker. I may start doing that, because there's a point where that wood gets thin enough that my stress level goes WAY up.
That's the cavity hole depth routed. I can just get a 1/2 turn on the pot screws.
I'm still waiting for the Gold jack to arrive from Amazon...lol!
I took the time to take a few photos in the sunshine while it's unassembled.
I'm still waiting for the Gold jack to arrive from Amazon...lol!
I took the time to take a few photos in the sunshine while it's unassembled.
Brings a tear to my eye that you attempted to spell it correctly.Love that color (colour) !
ThisBrings a tear to my eye that you attempted to spell it correctly.
Should just spell it how everyone sez it.
Kuller.
Kuller.
Brings a tear to my eye that you attempted to spell it correctly.
Well, I'm not completely uncivilised.
I mean, I don't mind spelling it colour. I'll even let you run with humour, or flavour. But I'm not calling it aluminium. 
I've been in this country for so long ( came over the first time in 1967, been here more or less permanently since 76 ),I hardly notice the difference any more.
Yeah, that's where we canadians draw the line too. Too many i's. I tried promoting calling it alumini-inium because I figured go big or go home but it never really caught on for some reason.I mean, I don't mind spelling it colour. I'll even let you run with humour, or flavour. But I'm not calling it aluminium.
I have to ask is it graphite, carbon or carbon fiber composite? I think that graphite is inside a pencil, carbon is left from fire and carbon fiber composite is what I make inside or outside a bass neck.
I usually just abbreviate and write alum.
That way I'm not offending anyone and plus, it frees up extra time and letters for more useful posts.
Like this one.
Do you guys delete letters from any other elements on the periodic table? Asking for a friend…
Alum is something else entirely though. Google tells me it's some kind of hydrated double salt, usually consisting of aluminum sulfate, water of hydration, and the sulfate of another element.
SBO level of build Completed at last!
Scale length: 34"
Construction: 4 string, Solid body, Through Neck
Neck Laminates: Maple & Padauk 5 piece, single 2 way truss rod.
Fingerboard: 24 fret Zebrano with zero fret and bone top nut.
Body: Padauk
Pickups: Bartolini Jazz
Wiring: Passive, Vol / Vol / Tone / Tone, one pull up switch for series / Parallel wiring
Hardware: Gold plated Hipshot bridge, Gold plated Wilkinson Tuners.
Scale length: 34"
Construction: 4 string, Solid body, Through Neck
Neck Laminates: Maple & Padauk 5 piece, single 2 way truss rod.
Fingerboard: 24 fret Zebrano with zero fret and bone top nut.
Body: Padauk
Pickups: Bartolini Jazz
Wiring: Passive, Vol / Vol / Tone / Tone, one pull up switch for series / Parallel wiring
Hardware: Gold plated Hipshot bridge, Gold plated Wilkinson Tuners.
