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SBO 24 - The Muffbucker
- Thread starter Alex Xander
- Start date
I like this. I also want to see the bass painted white.
Ye
Yes, I like that a lot. It's amazing how such small changes can flip the entire vibe.
Thanks @Dark Horse
We have a unique selection, for sure. There’s some beautiful stuff around that’s unique to Aus. I’m surprised it isn’t used more regularly.
Thanks!
I think those wishing for white or for a natural finish might be a little disappointed with the current plan - dark metallic purple. It has to be the best match for the sea of gold. Just call me Prince
Probably no metal flake, but only because I would be seriously testing my spray painting skills by doing flake. With that said, I am certain I have a small jar of purple/pink flake in my paint cupboard...
Progress!
I carved the neck today. I’ve moved to doing my necks completely freehand, as opposed to the facet method I started with. It makes for much faster carving and I can finesse the profile as I go.
With some finish applied, this is going to be fairly pretty.
Next up, I routed the neck pocket, got the neck mounting screws in and routed the pickup cavity.
You will notice I have only routed for one pickup. My gut feeling is that the bridge pickup will give me the tone I am chasing. I’ll do a dry assembly to confirm once I have fretted the neck. If it sounds too thin (can a mudbucker sound thin?), the middle pickup will be installed.
Next step is to final sand the body, lay down a coat of sanding sealer and get painting.
I carved the neck today. I’ve moved to doing my necks completely freehand, as opposed to the facet method I started with. It makes for much faster carving and I can finesse the profile as I go.
With some finish applied, this is going to be fairly pretty.
Next up, I routed the neck pocket, got the neck mounting screws in and routed the pickup cavity.
You will notice I have only routed for one pickup. My gut feeling is that the bridge pickup will give me the tone I am chasing. I’ll do a dry assembly to confirm once I have fretted the neck. If it sounds too thin (can a mudbucker sound thin?), the middle pickup will be installed.
Next step is to final sand the body, lay down a coat of sanding sealer and get painting.
I got impatient, and a little concerned this was going to look like garbage. A few minutes masking, followed by a few minutes painting rendered this result. I think it will be just fine.
I had a sneaking suspicion that my logo was going to be too fine to use a stencil. It definitely is. The stripes will stay, but the logo will end up being mirror gold vinyl.
I know I said this was going to be purple, but I think the white is a better match for the jarrah and gold, given how neutral it is.
Thos paint will all be sanded off and done properly now. I probably have just created work for myself here, but I have some confidence in the final product and I won’t learn on the final colour coat that my logo is too fine to use as a stencil.
Stay tuned.
I had a sneaking suspicion that my logo was going to be too fine to use a stencil. It definitely is. The stripes will stay, but the logo will end up being mirror gold vinyl.
I know I said this was going to be purple, but I think the white is a better match for the jarrah and gold, given how neutral it is.
Thos paint will all be sanded off and done properly now. I probably have just created work for myself here, but I have some confidence in the final product and I won’t learn on the final colour coat that my logo is too fine to use as a stencil.
Stay tuned.
I just fixed a Gretsch hollowbody for a friend that was white with gold hardware. I almost posted a picture here, there is one in my thread. I’m not always a fan of gold hardware but it looks good with white.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,002
- 1
- 31,693
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
I'm sure there's a million cardinal spray painting rules I'm breaking here, but currently I'm burying everything is many layers of clear. The stripes are good enough to keep, and I sanded out the logo area in the hope that when I've levelled the clear, I can use a vinyl logo as a stencil and just dust on a little bit of white. If that fails, I can just sand back to my clearcoat and try something else.
The contrast of the white and jarrah with the clear over the top has me pretty pumped.
The contrast of the white and jarrah with the clear over the top has me pretty pumped.
I love those Talman plates, they make the output jack look like a cool feature rather that something you have to try hard for it to not look bad.
It’s been very cold here. Daily tops of 8 degrees and below zero overnight (Celsius, no idea what that is freedom units).
This weekend saw the neck fretted with some lovely evo gold frets (first time using them - loved their malleability compared with stainless).
I was waiting for warmer weather to do some spray painting, but got impatient and sprayed the last coats of clear this afternoon. I’m certain I’m going to have issues getting the control cavity cover to fit after so many coats of paint. Anyone got any tricks or tips?
I’ll give the clear coat all week to go off before wet sanding and buffing. After that, all that’s left is a fret level and assembly.
This weekend saw the neck fretted with some lovely evo gold frets (first time using them - loved their malleability compared with stainless).
I was waiting for warmer weather to do some spray painting, but got impatient and sprayed the last coats of clear this afternoon. I’m certain I’m going to have issues getting the control cavity cover to fit after so many coats of paint. Anyone got any tricks or tips?
I’ll give the clear coat all week to go off before wet sanding and buffing. After that, all that’s left is a fret level and assembly.
I FINALLY have this godforsaken paint job done. Cold weather, spraying outdoors and a few stuff ups with overspray made this job an absolute punish.
It's pretty well just an assembly job now. I'll have at least one bass done by the deadline, by the looks of things.
It's pretty well just an assembly job now. I'll have at least one bass done by the deadline, by the looks of things.
I did a dry assembly to check everything was functional before I commit to a fret level, finishing the neck and doing the wiring.
A mudbucker in an extreme bridge position on a 39" scale bass certainly is a unique sound. Think a Jazz bass with flats on a soloed bridge pickup, and the bass knob dimed.
Strung BEAD, it had the second best low B of any bass I've owned or built. A bit of magic occurred when I detuned the B down to F#. I think the low mid resonance of the mudbucker is in just the right spot for some low end clarity at sub bass tunings. It would probably be lost if the pickup was in the neck position, but in the bridge position... wow! Easily the best F# I've heard, and that was with a floppy B string detuned. As fate would have it, I have strings for F# tuning, so afyer cutting a new nut, the final assembly of this will skip the BEAD and go to F#BEA
A mudbucker in an extreme bridge position on a 39" scale bass certainly is a unique sound. Think a Jazz bass with flats on a soloed bridge pickup, and the bass knob dimed.
Strung BEAD, it had the second best low B of any bass I've owned or built. A bit of magic occurred when I detuned the B down to F#. I think the low mid resonance of the mudbucker is in just the right spot for some low end clarity at sub bass tunings. It would probably be lost if the pickup was in the neck position, but in the bridge position... wow! Easily the best F# I've heard, and that was with a floppy B string detuned. As fate would have it, I have strings for F# tuning, so afyer cutting a new nut, the final assembly of this will skip the BEAD and go to F#BEA
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,002
- 1
- 31,693
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Wow. I’m not sure I’m manly enough to play something like that….
