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SBO 24 - The Muffbucker

I haven't been on this board as long as most, have we ever done a build by committee where the community votes on what the build should be?

I'm just saying, the community seems to be making a good decision on this one. I'm sure the fact that the community's opinion matches my own has nothing to do with how I feel about it. Carry on as you will.
 
I usually dislike gold on instruments, but really like the big block of gold on this and think it would be slightly improved by letting the bridge be one with a wagging tail… a Kahler trem.

If I could afford one, it would have one. VERY expensive bridges.

I seem to be contrary to your plans, but I like the gold better.

Well I can't take that as anything other than an overwhelming vote in favour of the gold! Plan A it is.

I like the gold, it complements both the lighter wood, darker wood and white finishes, and has conceptual continuity from tip to tail. Gold frets and a brass nut would be a nice touch too. it's ostentatious but not like an orange headed real estate business man's vision of gold. I don't use much gold myself unless someone wants it, and I'm not a mudbucker fan boy, but even I think you should cram a third gold mudbucker in there and call it "The Staff of Booka" :smug:

This is getting both gold frets and a brass but. You've expressed enough dislike for the mudbucker here before, that your endorsement for keeping them is enough for me.

I’m with the peanut gallery… I usually hate gold, but I like it better here. More unique.

Of course I also like the bass unpainted, and think that clear coated it would take on a richness that would complement the gold.

BUT… again … not my bass, I’m not the builder, and I’m not the guy with the “vision” for it….

so ignore me and carry on … it’s looking great so far !!!

:D

For what it's worth I really don't want you to paint it.

@Dark Horse has a great point - many clear coats will amber over time, which would blend well with your gold hardware.

The Pigeon Berry Ash turns a very nice amber with a finish on it. If I can work out a way to hide the joins on the back (or make them stand out), it could possibly stay natural. I do have some jarrah veneer, so I could possible cut a slot with a fret saw and glue in a thing veneer line.
 
I think I fixed it. At least in my eyes.

E6FA6A9A-7E8F-4632-8767-59A386A7D5AE.jpeg


It needed more gold, funnily enough.

Incorporating this jack plate may be at the cost of the big muff circuit, but I have to balance function and form.
 
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I think I fixed it. At least in my eyes.

View attachment 5487863

It needed more gold, funnily enough.

Incorporating this jack plate may be at tge cost of the big muff circuit, but I have to balance function and form.


One of my favorite basses I’ve had was the opposite of what I like normally. Bright blue bass boat sparkle finish, mother of pearl Pickguard and block inlay, gold hardware….. it was so “past” gaudy that it actually became “fashionable” :D

here are a couple pics of it ….


IMG_1053.jpeg
IMG_6045.jpeg



So my point is….. you are correct…. Sometimes “more” over the top is what actually balances it visually.

I like your solution.
 
That looks great, you're totally right. :D

How do you do your logos?
I have a friend with a vinyl cutter. I draw them in Autocad and he kindly cuts them.
One of my favorite basses I’ve had was the opposite of what I like normally. Bright blue bass boat sparkle finish, mother of pearl Pickguard and block inlay, gold hardware….. it was so “past” gaudy that it actually became “fashionable” :D

here are a couple pics of it ….


View attachment 5487940 View attachment 5487943


So my point is….. you are correct…. Sometimes “more” over the top is what actually balances it visually.

I like your solution.

Thanks, and that is a sweet bass. I totally agree that there is a point beyond gaudy that looks good. It’s a fine line to tread, however.

I wonder how bright pink would go with the jarrah and gold? :D
 
It's your bass, but I'm not feeling the headstick... er, headstock. :) All of the lovely curves of the body make the headstock look like an afterthought. Just my $0.02.

Two words: Atlansia

:smug:

He'll even do it with 6 strings! :D
View attachment 5488358

Yeah, I figured that was the inspiration. But seeing the string paths after the nut, especially on that six string above, just make my OCD self wince. :laugh:

String paths is something I really don’t like with the Atlansia basses. I spent a fair amount of time trying to get fairly straight string paths with this setup

7DBC1057-78D0-4C7E-AA50-128EEF2132BD.jpeg


I do have this idea up my sleeve in the (perhaps likely) event that the stick doesn’t grow on me

82998E25-3813-4068-89D3-8D44CA830EC6.jpeg
 
There's also tele & stingray control plates that might reclaim some of that space if you want to get that fuzz back in. I'd hate to see such a cool feature get axed.

EDIT: Put the bass controls on the plate and find some gold mini knobs for the fuzz controls arranged next to the plate?

Control Plates
MK-3315-002 (2) Gold Mini Dome Knobs for Split Shaft

If you want to keep the fuzz my question would be how much are you actually going to adjust the settings? Route a cavity on the back, replace the existing potentiometers with trim pots, run the wire(s) to the control cavity, install a bypass switch on the front, profit!

Both excellent ideas.

I was considering putting trim pots for the Big Muff on the rear cavity cover, with just a simple one/off switch for a predefined fuzz setting.
That may be the most elegant solution in front of me.