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SBO 24 - Woodrow

Not only am I inexperienced with building jigs, I'm also inexperienced with using routers. I thought there was a lot more adjustability of depth than there is. But in fairness to me they sure make it look like there is. I looked at that gear and those teeth and expected it to go down at least another 3/4". Doesn't it look like it should?
View attachment 6980199


Possibly. Is something else preventing the motor from going further down?

Also, I meant my remark to be encouraging in a “we’ve all done it” way. Hopefully it was taken that way.
 
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Possibly. Is something else preventing the motor from going further down?

Also, I meant my remark to be encouraging in a “we’ve all done it” way. Hopefully it was taken that way.
That's absolutely how I took it. I didn't mean that you made me feel like I didn't know anything, I meant as a matter of fact that I don't know anything.
Yes. There is a stop molded into the plastic so that it won't drop past the retainer nut.
 
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This is my first pass at the top with the somewhat redesigned sled. Next I'm going to do a pass on the bottom as it is and then I'm going to figure out how to refine it. Or at the very least I might just go ahead and make a straight jig to clean up the top and then do another pass with the curve jig.
IMG_20240714_195214.jpg
 
Not only am I inexperienced with building jigs, I'm also inexperienced with using routers. I thought there was a lot more adjustability of depth than there is. But in fairness to me they sure make it look like there is. I looked at that gear and those teeth and expected it to go down at least another 3/4". Doesn't it look like it should?
View attachment 6980199
Not sure which router this is, but some of them have multiple different bases that can be used with the same motor. There might be a different base that uses the full travel.

I was worried about this problem when I built a similar jig and solved it by placing the router between the curved rails instead of on top of them. It cuts basically flush with the bottom of the rails.
 
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Not sure which router this is, but some of them have multiple different bases that can be used with the same motor. There might be a different base that uses the full travel.

I was worried about this problem when I built a similar jig and solved it by placing the router between the curved rails instead of on top of them. It cuts basically flush with the bottom of the rails.
It's the cheapest generic thing I could find on Amazon. I don't know if there are other bases but I have a 3" bit on the way. That should take care of it I hope.
 
IMG_20240718_200615.jpg
Four passes with the router. Honestly it was a lot more work than I expected when you watch them do it on the YouTube videos it seems like they're just guiding it a little and it's doing all the work. It didn't work out that way for me, especially about the last 25% after the bit got good and dull.
I made the frame for the router slide a little too short. I remembered to account for the width of the router base, but I forgot to leave space for the wings of the router on each side. I'll use the Shinto to fix the ends where the slide wouldn't reach and do a little bit of light cleanup and then I'll bolt it on the other way and do the opposite curve in the back.
 
Routing and shaping is an area where Youtube videos can be misleading. Most of the time, the video is sped up so you don't realize how long it really takes. Even if it were shown at proper speed, you don't understand how much mental effort it can take to keep everything flat against the template and working cleanly.

But you're at my favorite part, hand shaping with a shinto rasp is oh so satisfying. Looking good so far.