i'm always impressed/taken by that look, too --- your ax is going to have all that and more with those great curves you have planned for the body --- really cool!
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
SBO 24 - Woodrow
- Thread starter Markshan
- Start date
I thought about that but since I'm going to be rounding the faces that's why I thought to do a shallow route first. Shallow to mark the spot and leave enough material to have the router bearing ride on after I smooth everything.
I would personally flatten the faces first so that I had a clean and square slate to work from when routing the cavities. That said, it's because that would work best with my own templates, jigs and process, so your approach may be just fine.
I'd route to full depth, front and back, before you contour the body to keep from having to use a router template on a curved surface.
This white cutting board is an interesting template material. It cuts beautifully and leaves a very smooth but hard surface. However, the fine shaping is a problem as the material is all but impervious to sanding or filing. Does anyone know how to do fine shaping on this stuff?
Scraping? Either an actual cabinet scraper or try a utility knife blade. Turn a burr on it like you would with a scraper if you want the blade to be more aggressive.
So I slept on it and I decided that I am going to shape the body before I cut out the cavities. I went through both scenarios in my head and I think the factor that decided it for me is that I see a lot of potential for tear outs going into the cavities, especially with the diagonal laminations. I think if I leave that all one piece and route the cavities from a smooth surface there's much less chance of something going wrong. I'll just use double-sided foam tape on the edges to keep my templates level. So I guess my next step is to create the necessary router sled.
On the one hand I wish I had more time to work on this over the weekend. On the other hand I'm glad to be feeling better and getting more social again. I'm quite sure that saving the other build for later was the correct call.
I thought about this too and decided that I want the pot shafts to be perpendicular to the curve of the body, so I actually will do that route last.
I've seen it done both ways and there are pros and cons to each. Just gotta keep the body and routing template level to one another if you contour first. Tricky, but not impossible.
By the way Matt, scraper was the correct answer. I didn't even have to turn a burr. I just used the smooth blade on my Leatherman and drug it backwards over the material and it took off nice clean shavings.
Glad it worked. I got some scrapers a long time ago but never really “got it” about scrapers until I learned to sharpen one the right way. Now I use one regularly.
So last night I went to see Norah Jones at the Blossom Music Center out in Akron. Tonight I am going to a concert at a museum here in pittsburgh. I did find a little bit of time though to cut out the framing for my router jig. Hopefully tomorrow I will at least get this assembled. Even better, I would love to get the rough shaping done.
Rails are cut out.
This split will cause a slight delay.
Glued and clamped.
This split will cause a slight delay.
Glued and clamped.
Reassembled and ready to be sanded. It's so hot out today that I'm only doing what I have to out there and doing the rest inside.
The skids are about 1/8" too far apart but I think it will work just fine and that's definitely preferable to having them too close together.
Since the back is going to have curve I can screw the body down to a center support and all of the screw hole will be routed away.
However, even with my longest bit and my router fully extended the bit will not reach even close to the wood. I'm going to have to make a couple modifications. I'll have to raise the level of the wood by increasing the groove that it's sitting in, and I will have to jigsaw the bottom of the sled to match the curvature of the glides.
However, even with my longest bit and my router fully extended the bit will not reach even close to the wood. I'm going to have to make a couple modifications. I'll have to raise the level of the wood by increasing the groove that it's sitting in, and I will have to jigsaw the bottom of the sled to match the curvature of the glides.
I wondered about router bit length when I saw the picture in post 57. I’m sure you’ll get it. I’ve completed more then one jig, went to use it and thought, “Hmmm… that should have been obvious. Let’s redesign this.”
Not only am I inexperienced with building jigs, I'm also inexperienced with using routers. I thought there was a lot more adjustability of depth than there is. But in fairness to me they sure make it look like there is. I looked at that gear and those teeth and expected it to go down at least another 3/4". Doesn't it look like it should?
